In reply to ElBarto:
The line you've drawn is a direct version of the shared first pitch of The Split and Swatter, which doesn't seem to be described in Lower Wye Valley guidebook or recorded anywhere else as far as I know. The normal first pitch starts in the same place, steps left where the rock steepens, goes up the shallow right-facing corner and makes a tricky move back right to the top of your blue line. I've done this loads of times to do Swatter or The Split, but I must admit it's never occurred to me to go straight up. It wouldn't be much new climbing, but it should at least be less polished than the normal way! Paul Wood (who wrote the Fly Wall section of the LWV guide) may know if it had been done before.
Looking at the description and photo of Split Swatter (E2), it's clear they used the normal first pitch, as the blue rope in the picture is clipped into the gear on the usual route. The only new climbing on Split Swatter appears to be a traverse leftwards from part-way up the wide crack of the second pitch of The Split to the upper groove of Swatter. Incidentally, the bit in UKC description saying that this route is between The Split and Mutchos Butchos is wrong - Mutchos Butchos is to the right of the Split, not to the left.
Rick
Post edited at 10:36
