Having read a few posts on the subject I have to say the one I read here on Stockholm was missing some details. As a local of 15 years having moved from the UK way back when, I know the area relatively well and know some really great places that are definitely worth the trip to climb in the heart of Scandinavia (well, we think it is anyway!) - and of course the home to one of the greatest female climbers today Matilda Söderlund who cut her teeth on these crags. Go Matilda!
Personally I'd recommend making the most of a visit here because apart from the very strange UK media obsession with all things Scandinavia, I love that we have:
1) Great conditions that are dry, uniform and predictable from May to October. Cold air (grip), warm sun (happy belayer), and warm water (for after-climb swimming).
2) Fantastic rock - crimpy to bold granite, meaning there's a lot of climbing per meter, and very few one move wonders.
3) A very high density of crags in such a small area meaning lots to work on.
4) Generally very friendly and inclusive locals who will want to show you where to go and give you a catch, and often know how to project at the harder crags.
Conditions
Sweden's East coast and therefore the Granite crags we have benefit from the surprisingly very dry Baltic climate - wait, what, it's dry? Yes, and pretty hot in the summer months. Hard sends usually go in April/June and September/October even November if it doesn't snow. (We don't get any of the summer drizzle that envelopes the UK for nine weeks while you wait for your one day to send some random E9 with that greasy patch in the middle you can't see until you get there... urgh... but I digress...)
Climbing style and variety
Stockholm is all granite and generally technical face to steep climbing. You'll commonly find demanding crimp and technical foot work but very little crack/trad style (though there is some). The granite itself varies in it's composition from very course to highly compact demanding extreme accuracy and power. Some crags like Ornberget are almost like being at the local gym with perma draws and powerful overhangs, while others are short and highly technical (Gåseborg) or, like Skevik, are long 35m epics with technically beautiful sensitive moves.
One things that is uniform across the area is that it's almost entirely, bar one or two exceptions, single pitch technical sport climbing that's the order of the day.
Locations and where to focus your planning
Primarily, Stockholm climbing is focused on the south of town, though some good areas in the North exist too, the majority lie between Södertälje, Nacka and towards Värmdö. There are innumerable crags around Stockholm, and most of the best crags are commutable - like Ornberget, Skevik, Flatten and even some of the shorter but challenging ones like Sjötorpsberget, Gåseborg and Nacka Kvarn. Some of the more beautiful crags do need a car - like Mora (trad/sport mix in upper f7's), Träskberget and Dödskalleberget (red granite with incredible friction). So it's pretty reasonable to say either strong biking legs or a hire car are needed to the get the most of a climbing trip, but it's also reasonable to say that you will not run out of places to go even when based in the city.
While I've seen them written about I have to strongly recommend to steer away from the city crags unless you have no choice or are super curious. Allot of Stockholm is blasted from granite cliffs over water - they look very nice but are horrible to climb on with greasy and often dirty sections. Even in the relatively clean air they still accumulate soot and city grime. Unless you really must climb in the there avoid Kanalklippan and Munchenbryggeriet like the plague.
This next one is super subjective - climbing was 'born' in Stockholm at Häggsta. Yes there's still a cult around the crag, but with the water polished rock and two lines that have had huge blocks fall from it's not the most rewarding experience especially when compared to the technical and long face climbs elsewhere, the climbing just isn't as rewarding.
Guidebooks and apps
Locally our bolt fund and intrepid toppo makers seem to be very happy being rewarded by 27crags.com a Scandinavian start up and generally all round excellent app with almost perfect coverage of the area. Thecrag.com also has a well documented set for the area. (I was against the paid-for version of 27crags to start with on principal but after talking to some of the guys taking their time to maintain and create the routes, they where happy about it so I changed my mind...). The STOCKHOLMSFÖRAREN guidebook written by Mickael Widerberg is currently out of stock. (BTW I understood from a recent conversation that Micke is very happy with 27crags too, so you can use the app with a good conscience. )
So what are my personal favourites?
It varies, right now I'm obsessed by the classic amphitheater and black magic inspired Skevik (it's got a weird cult-y past, and a handy notice board to tell you all about it), but generally as a start I would recommend checking out:
- West: Gåseborg - in a nature reserve*.
- Close to town: Ornberget, Nacka kvarn***
- South East: Flatten, Skevik***, Nickelviken (Nickelviksberget, Kulberget**)
- East: Tyresö (Noret, up to 8a, Dyvik, Träskberget)
- Far: Östnora, Morarna*** - demanding trad/sport mixed technical
*To get the most of Gåseborg on a sunny day park in the small parking lot SOUTH of the crag and walk up the coast path until you find the crag by GPS. If you take a swim here beware there are lots of fresh water muscles - so have shoes on, they are very sharp.
**Trad location, all others are mostly sport
***You should be projecting/climbing at least f7a to get the most of these locations
There are spots to grill at most climbing locations apart from the very small places, and plenty that are by the water.
