UKC

I’ve long fancied a trip to Wadi Rum and idly researched logistics and accommodation a few times over the years, but now when I look into it there seems to be a proliferation of moonbase-style ‘camps’ all over the place - large clusters of various styles of domes, glamping pods, cabins, etc. To my eye these things seem like an appalling blot on a stunning landscape, but I’d be interested to know others opinions on them, especially from people who might have visited since they emerged. Some questions would be:

Do they detract from the experience of visiting Wadi Rum?

Are they as big an intrusion in the landscape as they would seem from publicity photos?

What’s it like to stay in them?

Do they make good bases for climbing/exploration?

How do they fit with local opinion, culture, economy, etc.?

Any opinions/advice/experience welcome

In reply to Jimmy D:

The place is MASSIVE - its 6 years or so since I was last there, but at that point there was plenty of wild feeling spaces. We spent 1 night in the black tent things and it was good, but a night was enough. If you stop with a family in the village you can easily arrange a jeep into the desert for a few days away climbing and you'll be (un)lucky if you see a soul until they come back to get you

In reply to willworkforfoodjnr:

That’s great to know, thank you

In reply to Jimmy D:

Yeah it's big place. I didn't stay in any of the organised desert camps, but I'm sure it would make for a good tourist experience. The Bedouin take a lot of pride in sharing their culture and cuisine round a campfire.

I was there this April and stayed in one of the hostels when climbing near the town. But we did a couple of stints in the Barrah canyon too (no tourist camps in there). The Bedouin trust climbers with a level of freedom that the "normal" tourists don't seem to receive. A guide will gladly drop you off somewhere in the desert and arrange a pick up a few days later.

If wild camping, take more water than you think you need. When making fires, only use wood from the dead shrubs - this might involve lots of walking to collect firewood. And take warm clothing too, it can get very cold as well as very hot. One of the days in April it was 7 degrees celsius and pouring rain/hail - it can happen. The next day was 28. Check the forecast before you venture out and be aware of any flash flood risk.

Enjoy! It's an incredible place.

In reply to Jimmy D:

Having visited Wadi Rum eight times over the last twenty years (and visiting again soon), I have watched the accelerating proliferation of these "camps", mostly in the last six or seven years, with real sadness. The local bedouin with deep roots in the desert have in all the time I have been going maintained low key semi-permanent camps where they have taken visitors, but these hotels (that is what they are) are completely different. Many are built, presumably corruptly, within the protected area where such developments should not be happening and are totally out of place and out of character with local tradition. I am told that most are built  by outsiders and bring no benefit to the local people; many resent them. They are eyesores which genuinely detract from the whole feel of the place.

Previous replies have said that Rum is a big place, but part of the problem is that this is simply not true. The whole sandstone area is perhaps only about thirty miles by twenty and a really quite significant proportion of that now has these developments scattered around. It is still possible to get away from them and their associated traffic by going to the outer areas, but it has certainly become harder. The handful of local families which still maintain some sort of traditional lifestyle in the desert have been pushed to the outer fringes. 

Rum is a small and fragile place. It is still wonderful despite the desecration of all this inappropriate infrastructure, but certainly feels very much under threat.

I would advise being based in the village but making trips to camp or bivi out in the desert, arranging to be dropped off and then picked up a few days later. This is by far the best way to appreciate the desert. If you take up the offer of nights in a camp, make sure that it is one run by local bedouin so that you are supporting their income and culture.

In reply to Robert Durran: Thanks very much for this reply which, sadly, is confirming my worst fears. These ‘camp’ things really do look pretty dreadful and the whole presentation makes me uncomfortable. If we go I will take your advice I think. If we take the option of being dropped off/picked up for independent camping, is that something people typically do with their own tents/gear etc. that they bring with them?

In reply to Strife:Thank you. Good to know that a climber identity confers some benefits!

In reply to Jimmy D:

hi there, having lived in Jordan for a few years and climbed a lot in Wadi Rum here are my opinions on the bubble camps. 

Yes totally. the best bit of Wadi Rum is sleeping under the stars and knocking about with the Bedouin.  You don't need a tent in the desert.  You won't be interacting with locals from the village. 

Yes.  the majority are situated just outside the protected zone, such as close to disa which is overrun with them,  however some have found their way in. 

They cost  x10 / night and the food is not as good, they also charge for tea. You won't get an owners welcome and hospitality. It was also very strange as they are quite well insulated from sound and opening the door and stepping into a wide open desert was peculiar and unnatural. You can have your own toilet and hot tub (which seems unjust in one of the worlds most water poor countries) They are trying to bring high star hotel experience to the desert but don't do a very good job at it. They are partly trying to cater to local audience who are adverse to camping type conditions. 

depends what location you looking to climb but most probably not. most climbers base themselves  in the village. 

the locals don't like them, as they don't really contribute to the wadi rum economy, they have brought more infrastructure to the desert like generators, and there is a lot more 4x4 joyriding. 

In reply to Jimmy D:

Bubble hotels by night. Looking towards the Barrah area from Jebel Burdah.

In reply to Inhambane:

Thanks so much for this considered and detailed reply - very useful, but again, sadly confirming my expectations 🙁

In reply to Robert Durran:

 Oh dear - that’s a real shame 🙁

In reply to Robert Durran:

thats a lovely photo, but i think there is only 1 bubble camp, the rest are just regular ones 

In reply to Robert Durran:

That's tourism for you

In reply to Robert Durran:

Oh dear. Gone are the days when bivvying out in the desert for a few days was to encounter a way of life that had barely changed in hundreds of years.

It's hard to object to the trappings of tourism when it brings direct benefits to an otherwise poor community – which is what climbing did in Rum. And how we benefitted from Bedouin hospitality. But these developments seem doubly bad: damaging to the environment and few community benefits. I've been four times, but the most recent was 20 years ago and I am having to recalibrate my keen desire to make a long overdue return.