UKC

I was in the Alps in late June/early Jul for my first taste of mountaineering - a mix of taught/guided on a course and a couple of days' independent with my buddy. Absolutely loved it, I am totally hooked!

I couldn't shake the itch to do more, and wanted to reinforce what I'd learned, so I went back for a long weekend in Chamonix last week with a guide, 1:1. But the stormy weather was a disaster - never made it out of the valleys. Got some nice sport cragging in when the weather allowed, but still feeling pretty gutted.

I'm wondering if it's worth trying to go out again in the Autumn (late Sept/early Oct)? I've read a few pages that make it sound quite appealing - quiet, good snow conditions, a bit chillier but nothing too severe. But I've also heard people say it can be quite unpredictable/dangerous.

I've also heard that conditions on the Italian side tend to be better than France/Switzerland later in the year?

I fully admit I am a bit "on tilt" here! Just such a shame to have to wait a whole year to be up there again. And I worry about how much I'll forget in the mean time. Am I being daft, should I just suck it up and wait until next summer?

Also, if you want guiding, how easy it is to arrange things ad-hoc? I.e. if the weather is looking good in a week's time and you want to take advantage with a last minute trip, can you find someone at short notice through e.g. the Compagnie des Guides ? Next season I want to be fully independent with my buddy, but at the moment I still feel I need a little hand-holding - especially if I want to try more technical routes

Hi

Have been at different times of the year, including last week, and also last October, unfortunately it really is hit and miss especially those shoulder seasons. Have had great conditions through to very unstable and everything in between 

that probably does not help you but go with plans of course and be flexible and open to changing plans on a daily basis

have fun 

You will need to keep an eye on the weather and mountain conditions over the coming weeks, much like going at any other time of year. Things to watch for, many huts and uplift have reduced times or aren’t open at all. Any kind of snow fall won’t melt as quickly as in summer so glacier approaches and rock climbs / ridges above the freezing level could be tricky. You could be lucky and hit a good weather window and get some good mountaineering done but flexibility on where, when and what to climb is key, there are no rules on Italy is better etc it’s just what’s good now that counts and researching conditions and how things change in the next few weeks will give you the best options for venue choice 

I'd keep an eye on the weather. Book some leave from work if you have to and get a flight at short notice if the weather is promising. If not, cancel the leave.

Car hire from the Italian airports, Milan and Turin, can be very low cost. 

I don't know what the guides do between September and the skiing season, but you could easily look into that in the meantime.

Most of the lifts and huts will be closed, but the huts almost all have a winter room out of season.

Hey,

I’m a Mountain Guide based in the Chamonix Valley. I’ve sent you a PM re climbing together this autumn

Thank you,

Tom

I personally love the Autumn for the change in light, temperatures, and the relative freedom (the hordes are generally gone).

The weather is usually a bit tricky, but the main concern is the late season conditions, especially the amount of rubble that has to be ascended/descended (even on so called solid routes), the multiple gaping holes in the glaciers, and the trail breaking after fresh snow..

I like the challenge of that sort of thing, but if conditions like this are cause for concern, defo hire a professional. 

John C