UKC

Climbing accident, Troll Wall

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LouieLouie 23 Jul 2006
According to Norwegian newspapers, there has been a climbing accident at the Troll Wall today. The climber involved is believed to be British. He/she was soloing the Swedish Route at the time of the accident.

The climber is hanging motionless in the lower part of the wall. The condition of the climber is currently unknown. A rescue mission is underway, but might take some time as the climber is located in a fairly dangerous area.

http://www.nettavisen.no/innenriks/article691295.ece

Hopefully it will turn out all right.
LouieLouie 23 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
Update: The climber has been rescued by a Sea-King and is currently underway to hospital in Trondheim. There might be a happy ending to this one after all!
karl walton 23 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
Please could you call me as a matter of urgency

07855 601980
Regarding the faller on Troll wall
Karl walton
LouieLouie 23 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:
I know nothing about the accident except for what has been published in Norwegian newspapers. The most recent information was released about 1 hour ago and states that the climber was being stabilized before being taken to hospital in Trondheim by helicopter.

You should call the police in Romsdal at +47 71 58 90 00 if you need more information. They do speak english.

Good luck!
LouieLouie 23 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:
I keep reaching your voicemail when I try calling your number.

If there's anything I can do, call me at +47 45240974.
karl walton 23 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
Many thanks.

I think the injured climber is probably a friend of mine,
but the hospital have no details about the persons identity. I have informed his parents that it may be him.
I really hope it is not.

Thanks for your help
karl walton 23 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
> (In reply to karl walton)
> I keep reaching your voicemail when I try calling your number.
>
> If there's anything I can do, call me at +47 45240974.

Sorry I was talking to his father.
I apologise I did not realise you were Norway.

I only really wanted a translation of the news page, but we are past that point now, his dad will handle it now and hopefully find out it is not my friend.
karl walton 23 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
I will call if I think you may be able to help.
Many thanks for your prompt action.
LouieLouie 23 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:
The local police was in charge of the rescue. Try calling the number I stated, they will definitely be able to give you some more information!
OP Anonymous 23 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:

I believe this could be a UKC poster? Regardless... I hope he's ok.
karl walton 23 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
Thanks mate.

Unfortunately it is my mate.

No real information on his condition other than he is unconscious.
karl walton 23 Jul 2006
In reply to Anonymous:
> (In reply to karl walton)
>
> I believe this could be a UKC poster? Regardless... I hope he's ok.

He is.
lets hope he is OK.
OP Anonymous 23 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:

OK, I know who that is then, having climbed with him before. Sorry to hear - hope everything turns out ok.
LouieLouie 23 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:
I'm sorry to hear that.

Let's hope he'll make a full recovery.
Netsrik 23 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:

I hope he will be OK.

Kirsten
thepoorlookinghippy 24 Jul 2006


I am sorry to read this thread. I recall a time when I was in this situation. I dearly hope that everything ends up well, my heart and soul goes out to you, the family anyone touched by this.

You'll all be in my soul.

Donnala
LouieLouie 24 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
Norwegian newspapers report that the climber is being treated at St. Olavs Hospital in Trondheim. Sadly, according to the hospital, he is very seriously injured and remains in critical condition.

There's a report from the accident & rescue mission here:
http://www.rbnett.no/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20060724/LOKALNYTT/10724001...

Local climbers believe he was struck by falling rocks. I can write a translation if anyone is interested.
 Al Evans 24 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie: We would be interested, our hearts go out to him and his family.
 nikinko 24 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton: love and prayers to friends, family, and the guy concerned.

Nikki
Imperium 24 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:

Karl,

A worst nightmare come true is learning of a friend in dire straights. Here's hoping he makes a recovery, my thoughts are with him, you and his family right now.
LouieLouie 24 Jul 2006
In reply to Al Evans:
Translation of the www.rbnett.no report:

Climber retrieved alive

Åndalsnes: A rare rescue drama took place in the Troll Wall yesterday evening. A 24-year old English climber was observed lying seemingly lifeless on a ledge on a slab close to the start of the Swedish Route. The man was lying motionless on the ledge for hours, head down, feet up. Both climbers and rescuers from the 330-squadron observed the climber and concluded that he had probably been beaten to death. But when the man was retrieved around 20.45, he was unconscious but was breathing. We were overjoyed when we heard that the climber was alive when he was retrieved by the helicopter, says police officer Per Tore Storbråten, rescue leader at the site.

The 24-year old englishman was climbing the Swedish Route. He had told locals he was planning to spend 5 days on the route. He had packed 65 kg of gear in addition to lots of water, says KÃ¥re-Jonny KÃ¥gen, a local helping him out. The 24-year old started climbing at 11 saturday morning. At noon sunday, he was observed hauling his bag up a slab just below the start of the Swedish Route. A couple of hours later, the climber was observed on a ledge, his yellow haulbag hanging in a rope further down.

The climber was observed by climbers using binoculars. When he didn't move for an hour, they called the police. We were notified at 17:24, says PO Storbråten. Shortly afterwards a dramatic rescue mission took place. A Sea King rescue helicopter on a mission in Eikesdalfjella was redirected to the Troll Wall. After some reconnaissance, the helicopter crew found the climber lying on a ledge, seemingly motionless. Everyone was afraid that the young climber, who had never climbed the Troll Wall before, had been beaten to death. Most likely he has been hit by a falling rock - there has been rockslides all weekend, says local climbers.

Helicopter pilot Ken Ronny Strøm assessed the risk involved by flying close to the wall: Safety is our prime concern. We try to find a way to fly close to the wall and send a rescueman down to release and retrieve the climber. If it's safe we'll do it, otherwise we will not. At 20:30 the helicopter took off from Fiva, headed for the slab just beneath the Troll Wall. People using binoculars could see rescueman Finn Åge Jacobsen being lowered in a long pendulum rope. He managed to mage his way to the ledge with the climber. Miraculously, the climber was alive. Rescueman Jakobsen and the rest of the Sea King crew carried out quite a feat getting the climber off the ledge. The helicopter landed at Fiva a few minutes later. Surrounded by climbers, rescuer Jakobsen happily declared that the climber was still alive. We hope that there will be a happy ending says Bjarte Bø from the local mountain rescue group, thanking rescueman Jakobsen for doing an outstanding job. The climber was taken to St. Olavs hospital late last night.
 Al Evans 24 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie: Thank you so much for that, obviously some of us will know him, Our thoughts go out to him and his family and friends. And our thanks to those that rescued him.
karl walton 24 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
I cannot contact you via your UKC email address, could you send me a valid address please.
LouieLouie 24 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:
You can reach me at hcvk@hcvk.com
In reply to karl walton:

OMG this is a bit of a shocker. Karl- Can you let me know if you here anything, cheers mate.

My thoughts are with him, and his family.
LouieLouie 24 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
A video from the rescue has just been released. Parts are filmed through a pair of binoculars, hence the poor quality.

mms://pbcsreal2.osl.basefarm.net/www.rbnett.no/wmv/RB345468724.WMV
 nick nc 24 Jul 2006

> A video from the rescue has just been released. Parts are filmed through a pair of binoculars, hence the poor quality.
>
> mms://pbcsreal2.osl.basefarm.net/www.rbnett.no/wmv/RB345468724.WMV

I don't know if it is just my PC, but I can't seem to get this video working at all. Anybody else having a problem?
boatgypsy 24 Jul 2006
In reply to nick nc:
You need to an application that deals with mms material such as windows media player
mik 24 Jul 2006
In reply to boatgypsy:

they say in the video that his condition is serious but stable.
 Rubbishy 24 Jul 2006
In reply to nick nc:

Not wishing to offend, but I elected not to click the link as I did not want to feel like some Eigerwatcher.

Heres wishing the best for the climber in question.
andy kirkpatrick 24 Jul 2006
It sounds like the Troll is getting increasingly dangerous, and I had an e-mail from a German freind who was out there a few months ago just the other day that seemed to point to this fact:

Uh, don't ask about the Troll Wall. Not the best place to climb in the snowmelt. We fixed 200 Meter of rope and carried all gear to the last anchor. Jumaring up on the next day we experienced huge blocks falling of the wall. Very frightening with no place to hide. Mischa almost was hit. I myself was on the fixed rope at that point and it was cut by the blocks (as all our other ropes too). Fell down on the snowfield, luckily uninjured.

Trying to get back to our gear another part of the wall broke off with blocks rolling down the slope almost to the river, trees being cut etc. God save the germans.

Discussing a third time to go up a tower in the right part of the wall size of a ship container fell off and hit our gear.

....

I hope this guy is OK, and it's a real credit to the pilot and crew that they got him down (I wouldn't like to park my car at the bottom, let alone fly up to the face). I suppose this is the problem with soloing on such a dangerous face, in that there's tons of loose rock (in fact the word tons dosn't do it justice), plus the rock is dirty, with cracks often full of mud.

The Troll has got to be one of the most dangerous and serous faces around, and it seems that less and less people are getting up it these days, with many just glad to get away from it! Prehaps it's going to become a pure winter wall?

Andy
Jess 24 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:

Thanks so much for translating the newspaper article. I'm a close friend of the climber and his family, and due to the language barrier it has been really difficult to get to know anything about the accident.

I can tell you that his parents and sister are at the airport now waiting to fly to Norway this evening.

Unfortunately, we don't know any more about his current condition, other than that although very critical he is stable. If anyone has any more information, please post it up so that his family can read it.

Jess.

PS - In reply to John Rushby: I understand that you personally didn't want to click on the link, but for those close to the climber, it appears that this website is currently our only source of information.
 HC~F 24 Jul 2006
In reply to Jess:

John posting via Helen - I understand - my first response was that it was voyeuristic and apologise if that was incorrect.
LouieLouie 24 Jul 2006
In reply to John Rushby:
> Not wishing to offend, but I elected not to click the link as I did not want to feel like some Eigerwatcher.

I partly share your point of view - I've been having second thoughts about every post I have written regarding this matter. However, as there doesn't seem to be much information available for those affected, I've decided to post what I've thought may be useful here. I sincerely hope my posts are perceived as informative and nothing else.
Snow 24 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:

I'd like to say thank you for all the information provided on this page. We are close friends in Canada and this is our main source of information now that the family has gone to Norway.

Your posts are informative, Louie. Please know that we all appreciate it. Don't know what we'd do without you.
Ian 24 Jul 2006
In reply to Snow:
So are we able to know who it is? While we are not all close friends, there might be some aquaintences?

Anyway, my thoughts are with the climber and the family

LouieLouie 24 Jul 2006
In reply to Jess:
You requested more information. This is what I've found tonight:

According to the chief surgeon at St. Olavs hospital, the climber remains stable but in critical condition in the intensive care unit. People involved in the rescue reports that he had minor external injuries but appeared to have suffered a trauma to the head, most likely caused by a minor rockfall.

The name of the climber has been released.
 Al Evans 25 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
> (In reply to Jess)
> The name of the climber has been released.


And it is?
rob s 25 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
Just caught this thread before turning in, maybe a coincidence but i was with the Llanberis MR team a couple of weeks ago and gave a climber some minor assistance in carrying his rain sodden gear back to the car, he was imminently attempting a solo of the Troll Wall, maybe the same chap, nice bloke, i hope all ends well.
froggie 25 Jul 2006
In reply to rob s: I am a really good friend of the climber and I believe that he is probably the same chap you assisted a couple weeks ago, as he told me of that incident himself and how appreciative he was for the help. I am sure that he will be ok. BTW-I appreciate all the information provided here.
 Offwidth 25 Jul 2006
In reply to Al Evans:

A few people I know who have had serious accidents did not want their name published on these threads.
 Al Evans 25 Jul 2006
In reply to Offwidth: Thats ok and understood, louie has mailed me direct.
Snow 25 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:

Any news today?

Anyone???????
LouieLouie 25 Jul 2006
In reply to Snow:
This article was published by Romsdals Budstikke a little while ago. It is concerned with the risk involved with climbing in the Troll Wall, which I believe most of us are very well aware of.

Translated from Romsdals Budstikke:
--
Climber knew the risk involved.

-"You'll never get down alive!" was KÃ¥re Johnny Kaagen's response when the English climber presented the route he was planning to do. Kaagen acted as a contact person for the 24-year old NN when he arrived in Ã…ndalsnes to climb the Swedish Route. He warned against the risk involved by choosing this particular route. "During a conversation friday afternoon, we both witnessed multiple rockslides in the route he had planned to do. Using binoculars, we both saw what happened and decided he should do a different route. He agreed and said "I'll definitely not do that"", he says.

They decided he'd better start climbing a route further to the left than what he had planned, and gradually move towards the intended route. "What happened is that he ended up climbing a inbetween those. In other words he chose neither the safe nor the extremely dangerous route," Kaagen says.

Fred Husøy, an accomplished climber from Åndalsnes has thorough knowledge of the Troll Wall from the past. He says the Swedish Route used to be one of the safest routes for climbers. "It has always been very demanding, but it was never considered unsafe. After the huge rockslide some years ago (LL:1998) the risk of falling rocks has increased significantly - parts of the route even disappeared. As far as I know, nobody has climbed it since then," he says.

After a dramatic rescue sunday evening, the climber was taken to St Olavs Hospital by helicopter. According to the emergency services in Trondheim, he was in the intensive care unit Monday night, his condition being very serious but stable.
--
 Gabe 25 Jul 2006
Fingers crossed all will be ok. Thoughts to the family & friends.
Bjarte 25 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
I am the leader of the mountain rescue in Romsdal and know the Troll Wall quite well. I really hope the climber will recover - my thoughts are with him, his family, and his friends.

I would like to correct some of the information from the local newspaper.

The climber was actually on the only route that is used to climb the intro slabs. The local guy that is quoted in the article is not a climber and obviously knows nothing about the climb. The climber was on the left side of the steep part of the intro slab when the accident happened. This is considered to be a relatively safe area - almost all the rocks come down to the right or on the outside of the climbers here. But the big rockfalls spread all over the intro slab and you are not really safe anywhere.

The Swedish route has been climbed at least twice only this year, but the rockfalls are so frequent now that I don't recommend doing the routes that start above the intro slab anymore. Big rockfalls are coming down many times every day, making the intro slabs extremely dangerous.

If friends and family need more information about the rescue or anything else regarding the accident they can contact me directly and I will do the best I can to help.

Bjarte
LouieLouie 25 Jul 2006
In reply to Bjarte:
Excellent!

As I have mentioned, I don't have any first hand knowledge about the accident. I've had to rely on information from the media, which quite often is inaccurate or incorrect. Bjarte is definitively the best source for information regarding this matter.
 Offwidth 25 Jul 2006
In reply to Bjarte:

Thanks for posting that. One of the reasons other friends were reticent to have thir names posted following accidents was the misinformation that can proliferate on such threads (and the general morbid fascination).

I'd like to thank you and your team for rescuing my friend. Are you a voluntary organisation relying on donations like the UK mountain rescue?
Bjarte 25 Jul 2006
In reply to Offwidth:
I don't want to take the credit for this rescue - I just want to help his family and friends if I can. The Mountain Rescue only took part in the planning of this operation, while an Airforce helicopter with their own crew did the actual rescue.

Bjarte
 Mike_Hayes 26 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie: A lovely bloke and having been fortunate enough to climb with him, an extremely accomplished climber. My thoughts are with him.

BGM
Billy Bluehat 26 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:

I've known him personally all of my life and can say that he is physically and mentally one of the toughest people I've ever known. If anyone can pull through, he can.

My heart goes out to his family and loved ones.
andy kirkpatrick 26 Jul 2006
In reply to Billy Bluehat:

Hi can you e-mail me with the name of the climber?

Cheers

Andy
Billy Bluehat 26 Jul 2006
In reply to andy kirkpatrick:
>
> Hi can you e-mail me with the name of the climber?
>
> Cheers
>
> Andy

Done.
karl walton 26 Jul 2006
In reply to Billy Bluehat:
You have mail.
Pete Croton 26 Jul 2006
In reply to karl walton:
Hi, I may have some more information on this climber for you. I work with him and i was the one who got his family down to the airport to get them out to Norway, we are in touch with his Farther.
The last news we got rom them was yesterday afternoon,
Please mail me, and i will call you or mail you back full details,

Pete
 Pauline 26 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie: thanx for the updates people!
Zed 28 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:
He is currently undergoing surgery
Jess 28 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:

He's back out of surgery now. The operation went very smoothly, and he's very stable.

Good news!

Jess.
 d_b 28 Jul 2006
In reply to Jess: Good news.

Any idea how serious the injuries are?
Jess 28 Jul 2006
In reply to davidbeynon:

His injuries are critical, but he is improving gradually all the time. The main thing at the moment is that he stays stable, which he is doing. We just need to keep positive.
rhoda 31 Jul 2006
In reply to LouieLouie: My regards to all who know him, he is a really good guy and hopefully will pull through with no lasting injuries. There's alot of people thinking of you Mike!
Lynn Robinson 01 Aug 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:

I spoke to the climbers father last night and he wanted me to pass a message on to everyone:

"We want to extend our thanks to everyone, around the world, for everyones positive thoughts, messages and best wishes. We are very grateful."

My love and thoughts continue to be with my friend and his family. xx
Fille 01 Aug 2006
In reply to LouieLouie:


My thoughts are with the climber, his family and friends. Stay positive.
Local 05 Aug 2006
In reply to andy kirkpatrick:

Russian climbers ascending the left part of Troll Wall vidoefilmed the rescue mission taking place just a few hundred meters away.
The video footage show what is not known to the public until shown on Norwegian national television on friday evening.
A gigantic rockfall from the the face hit the area where the rescue took place some moments earlier. The report speaks of minutes from disaster and falling blocks the size of cars, exploding onto the introductory slabs just beneath the main wall.

A very fast and daring rescue mission prevented what could have turned out to be a far more serious outcome for both the climber and rescue crew.

Rockfalls in the Troll Wall of these proportions are not uncommon these days, and there is a strong concensus among local mountain climbers that this area is too hazardous for climbing right now. The russian climbers having been on another part of the wall for 10-12 days, agree upon this view.

I also hope the british climber will soon recover from the serious injuries he received, and my thought goes to friends and family.

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