staceyjg

Anothre year on and another year older, and fortunately, another year better at climbing.


I climb 2 or 3 times a week indoors, and if the weather permits, outdoors at weekends.

I do a yearly pilgrimage to Font, but in Font terms, I am still a complete punta, my aims for next years font is to be climbing hard enough to ignore the yellow and orange circuit and aim for blue only.... but we'll see.


This was my previous update "My climbing has gone from strength to strength over the last 18 months, going from not being able to lead any further than the 2nd clip due to absolute terror, to leading my first HVS 5a. This, to me, is a great achievement. (also noting that I did it with a sprained knee).

With some help from Adrian Berry, I was able to lead VS 5a without any panic, terror or even hesitation, (the route felt more like a Severe) and I led HVS 5a, with a touch more trepidation, lots more fear, and two lead falls (my first trad falls). Although I'm not sure I am ready for leading HVS consistently, I feel confident that through a little perserverence and the understanding that I KNOW I'm going to be stepping outside my comfort zone, I can soon come to grips with leading VS on a more regular basis and not looking at the routes wondering when I will be able to lead them."

I am now consistantly leading 6a/6a+ indoors, HS & VS depending on the route outdoors, but basically having a go at everything. My head game used to be a factor, but thanks to my partner Chris who's had a bit of a bad year requiring knee reconstruction, which has meant that I have had to lead everything, my head game has improved immensely and I am very much enjoying climbing on lead (although seconding the occasional route is an indulgance now).

There is still much room for improvement and I will continue to keep pushing.



Email staceyjg

Location
Near Birmingham

Best Climbing Experience
Reaching the top of a route I led with no hesitation and being told I'd just led a VS 5a.

Later in the day with a sprained knee, leading a HVS 5a and finally finding out that my gear WILL hold a fall!!!

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Interests Outside Climbing
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Anything Else We Should Know
I work full-time in I.T. and the rest of the time I have a daughter. I get the occasional weekend reprieve which I would like to take the opportunity to get some outdoor climbing in.

staceyjg, 4 kb

User Profile

registered 01/Apr/07
updated 30/Apr/13

Age
38

Been Climbing For
4 to 10 years

Best Onsights
Trad - HVS
Indoor - 6b
Sport - 6a
Bouldering - V3

Worked Grades
Trad - HVS
Indoor - 6b+
Sport - 6a+

Main Sport/Activity
Trad Rock Climbing

Favourite Crag/Rock
too many to chose from
Gritstone

Favourite Wall
Bear Rock/redpoint/the works

Best Magazine
Climber (UK)

I Climb...
Several times a week
In the UK & Europe

Favourite Climbs
Little Tryfan
Upper Tier - Roaches
Symmonds Yat
Chepstow - Wintours Leap
Pembroke - St Davids
Idwal Slabs
Moelwyn

Latest Climbs
Perforation HVS 5b
Feathered Friends VS 4b
Kelly's Crack VD
Kelly's Eye HS 4b
Kelly's Eliminate S 4b
Autumn Gold HS 4a
Spring Sunshine VS 4c
Big Al HVS 5a
Bent Crack HVD
Mistook VS 4c
Rammer's Route VS 5a
MTN S
Bulging Wall HS 4a
Falling Block Crack S
West Rib HVS 5a
... list all 605 climbs

Ticklists BETA
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Climbs Wishlist
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