UKC

Gillercombe Buttress description

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 Suncream 27 Jun 2020

In the Rockfax app, the topo for Gillercombe Buttress shows 6 pitches, but I'm only seeing a description for two pitches.

This is on Android.

 Jon Stewart 27 Jun 2020
In reply to Suncream:

It's definitely not 2 pitches, if you pitch it. But there are long stretches of scrambling between the climbing at severe grade, so perhaps 2 pitches might actually be quite reasonable. It's a great route, but not really the kind of thing where you need telling where to belay?

In reply to Suncream:

I've just looked on my phone. That description does look a bit fishy, as though it's maybe truncated. I'll double check this later against the book and correct it if necessary. 

OP Suncream 29 Jun 2020
In reply to Stephen Horne - Rockfax:

Thanks. I notice the UKC description is the same as the app so if it is truncated it's not unique to the android app

 Martin Bennett 29 Jun 2020
In reply to Suncream:

Oddly enough I'd mentioned this route last week as a nice gentle first climb since February so seeing your query I've just had a look. It's 195 metres in 6 pitches according to the proper guide book. 7 pitches if you go back to the even "properer" guide book (FRCC Borrowdale {definitive} from 2000).

Post edited at 12:03
2
 Martin Haworth 30 Jun 2020
In reply to Martin Bennett:

I think you will find it is 12 pitches.


In reply to Martin Haworth:

and a bivi at the end of pitch 6

Post edited at 09:56
 Rick Graham 30 Jun 2020
In reply to Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing:

> and a bivi at the end of pitch 6

That will only be the  lost rockfax users.

In reply to Rick Graham:

They'll be done in no time when they run the whole thing out in two pitches

 C Witter 30 Jun 2020
In reply to Suncream:

Description is truncated; that's just the description of the first two pitches. It's normally done in 6 pitches.

C

 Martin Bennett 30 Jun 2020
In reply to Martin Haworth:

Indeed Martin. From the 1953 Bentley Beetham guide, which would have been the one we used first time I did the route in the sixties. So much more satisfactory to do a route of 475 feet rather than a mere 195 metres. 

Intrigued by now, I've also just looked at the 1925 guide but it's description, whilst it has references to the belays is not in the same way formalised into pitches, simply mentioning "the leader needs 55 feet of rope". In it, Thomson's introduction to the valley begins: "The climbs in Borrowdale are few and far between"! 

Post edited at 11:19
 Martin Bennett 30 Jun 2020
In reply to C Witter:

> Description is truncated; that's just the description of the first two pitches. It's normally done in 6 pitches.

> C

We'd decided that by noon C. Keep up!

In reply to C Witter:

> Description is truncated; that's just the description of the first two pitches. It's normally done in 6 pitches.

It is a touchstone route for a good day out to get fit in most weathers, all times of year, in good conditions we do it in three long pitches, our record is 40 minutes two people, proper belays and gear.

Soloing would be quicker of course but not me thanks.

DC

 Rick Graham 30 Jun 2020
In reply to Rick Graham:

> That will only be the  lost rockfax users.

To be fair, the rockfux  lists six pitches.

The app and UKC logbook only list two apparently .

In reply to Martin Bennett:

> Indeed Martin. From the 1953 Bentley Beetham guide, which would have been the one we used first time I did the route in the sixties. So much more satisfactory to do a route of 475 feet rather than a mere 195 metres. 

I don't know about that. 195m is nearly 650ft? It seems have gotten 175ft longer in recent years!

 Lankyman 30 Jun 2020
In reply to Isabelle Booker:

> I don't know about that. 195m is nearly 650ft? It seems have gotten 175ft longer in recent years!


Path erosion can be quite bad at popular crags.

 C Witter 30 Jun 2020
In reply to Dave Cumberland:

Sounds grand. Then you can nip on from there up to Gable Crag. I know someone who simul-downclimbed it as part of the Lakes Classic Rock in a day challenge. Don't think my nerves are quite up to that myself!

In reply to Isabelle Booker:

It is three 50 metre pitches, 500 feet total.

DC

In reply to Rick Graham:

Occasionally a text frame in the page layout document for a rockfax guide is incorrectly not threaded to the "next" one, where a route's description is continued, and so the parser thinks the description stops before it does. That's what will have happened here, I just need to go fix it. 

The rockfax descriptions are uploaded from the app parser, which is why it's wrong on the website too. I should probably build a test for these orphaned description fragments to catch them earlier. 

 Martin Bennett 30 Jun 2020
In reply to Isabelle Booker:

> I don't know about that. 195m is nearly 650ft? It seems have gotten 175ft longer in recent years!

So it is - I hadn't thought to do the conversion - just making a typical old codger's lament about "the times they are a changin'"! 

In reply to Suncream:

This has been fixed now, thanks for the report.


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