UKC

I got 7a Max Scottish Sport as I am looking to climb outdoors during the summer.  I like the look of Dunira for a first outing as it has a variety of climbs for both me (5/6a) and my partner's (6a/6b) level of climbing.  Can anyone reccomend any other good crags for a first trip outdoors?  Ideally looking for sport climbs in the Central Highlands, lower Western Glens, and The Lowlands.

I am hoping that by the summer I will be climbing 6bs comfortably as it seems a lot of the lower half of Scotland's climbs start around the 6a/6a+ mark.

TIA!

Got to be  Benny Beg surely!

Benny Beg and Kirrie Hill

Hi there,

Here's my advice based on our own experience so far:

You are exactly right that a lot of the sport crags in Scotland have very few lower end routes and are mostly 6a and above.

The exceptions to this are Kirriemuir and Moy Rock both of which are quite a bit further North than 'Lower Scotland'.

For the area you mention the 'go-to' beginner location is BennyBeg, which has a good mix of routes, but I fear that by the summer you might find it a little...boring??

If you want something that feels a bit more like 'proper' climbing then I suggest Weem near Aberfeldy. it's a cluster of different crags at different grades with some easier routes...though not a lot!

The other option that's not in the 7Amax book yet is Callander Sport Crag which is a linear conglomerate outcrop above the town of Callander. There aren't may routes yet and they are all quite similar, but it does give some more easy routes that you are asking for.

http://callandercrags.weebly.com/

Have fun.

Dave

Just to expand on the two best recommendations:

Kirrie Hill - has a great range of lower grade routes, with plenty in the 5s and a few 4s. Its sandstone so read the crag access advice

Benny Beg - Has a great range of easier short routes, and also has easy access to the top of the crag to allow top-ropes, making it popular with some groups. This is a great location to learn to climb and to gain experience of Dolerite and all the options of footholds it presents....

Have fun.

Good suggestions above: don't be afraid to take it easy to start with and don't be surprised/disappointed if real rock initially feels harder and scarier for the grade than indoors! 

And, in the case of Benny Beg in particular, do not be surprised if the routes feel completely rubbish compared to Ratho and Ibrox and so on: it's because they are.