In reply to Denbo:
A lot will depend on conditions - best to go with a big list of potential routes, and whittle it down at the OHM once you've arrived.
You can't get much more accessible than the Cosmiques Arete, which I suspect will go in mostly any conditions. The Pointes Lachenal traverse is nearby too, and could be a good shout if the crux pitch isn't completely dry (and thus loose). To be honest, there's plenty accessible from the Midi that could suit, and can all be done in a day from and back to the valley.
The Rockfaax might be a good investment.