UKC

Hey all,

I'm Jacob, and am a 16 year old climber, I currently can only climb once a week, due to school, which means there is a fairly lengthy period between climbs. Therefore, I am currently looking into possible finger strength exercises, otherwise, there is no way for me to train them during the week. I understand hangboards can be dangerous to use if your body is still developing, so I was just wondering if there are any other techniques/excercises which may be safer.

Thanks in advance,

Jacob

Your still just setting out climbing so dont get to hooked up on finger strength. There are lots of exercises you can do at home that will improve your climbing. Crunches, dips, hanging from door frames, running, squats, stretching, yoga and many more. 

Also reading, practising your rope skills are all ways in which you can improve your climbing

Technique and footwork are far more important in the early stages. Watch some technique coaching videos or even just some films of top climbers and watch their movement. Focus on this, strength will develop as you climb.

Hi Jacob,

Whilst only climbing once a week is frustrating, it's much better than fractured growth plates from overuse - in your boat I would try to increase the frequency of climbing and concentrate on a high volume of routes / problems per session to get techniques dialled.

Shame you can only climb once a week.

Fingerboard deadhanging with proper warm up and progressively harder hangs without going to failure is inherently safer I’d say than dynamic fingery bouldering which people seem far less vexed about. You don’t even need to let your feet leave the ground when deadhanging you can just stand on the floor and progressively load a hold with one arm or two. 

There is increased risk if growing which occurs in spurts. The signs a spurt is starting to happen are such things as increased tiredness and appetite and it would be better to back off then if fingerboarding.

Other home exercises that will help with your climbing are variations on pull ups, levers and core floor exercises. A set of dumbbells are useful for complexes for conditioning and reasonably priced.

Stretching to achieve greater range of movement is another obvious home activity. 

The ultimate is installing a woodie if you have the means, space and permission.

Good luck.