UKC

I think I've got the right forum for this, please correct me if not. 

Since I've got so much time spare I'm looking at getting a book in that has some good, current information on rope-work for climbing, so I'll be more efficient when I get back out. I'd particularly like some coverage on self-rescue since I think I'd like to be doing more multi-pitch climbing soon. Ideally I'd like to do a course on self-rescue but I'll settle for self-taught basics for now. 

Does anyone have any video/book recommendations that cover the rope aspects of climbing?

Its possibly slightly dated now, but Nigel Sheperds "Complete Guide to Modern Rope Techniques" is amazing, covers everything from tying into all the fancy ropework needed to pass MIA. It can also be picked up cheap online (I got my copy for £3 on eBay)

Libby Andersons RCI book is also supposed to be good, but I dont have a copy of it to say.

The "tech tips" section of the petzl website is worth a look.

I've been doing a few videos lately, here's one but there's quite a few other on my channel!

youtube.com/watch?v=4OWIFhUL3wA&

Not for printed books. I've probably got every single recent instructional book that's easily available and quite frankly they are all pretty piss poor. (Nigel Shepherd's is woefully dated. Libby Peter's is so focused on the UK qualification scheme that it's super confusing for recreational climbers. The rest tend to be overly superficial or US based which again just tends to confuse any UK climber.) 

Plenty of good short videos covering single topics, but Internet short-form video is a very poor medium for dealing with wider issues. 

Probably the best resource around, until I write my own book is http://www.multipitchclimbing.com/

Lots of good stuff there and you can then Google anything you come across if you need more info or perhaps want a video on a particular aspect. 

HTH 

David Fasulo's book Self-Rescue published by falcon is pretty good.

Mark, why don't you do exactly that?  I think there's a real need. I know wants are very different from needs but as more and more people struggle with the intricacies of ropework, they'll be looking for help. Clear, precise layout is what they're after; I think you'd be really good at that. You could supplement it with short Youtube videos on key parts, linking back to the book. Worth considering?

Mick

This was part of the problem I had when doing a quick search myself. I got John Long's book on anchors fairly recently but it seemed from that book that the consensus on what is considered "safe" is still shifting as different groups perform tests and analyse accident reports. It was still a great book though and I definitely got a lot out of it. 

Thanks for the link, I'll have a look. 

Thanks, it's a great video! I liked the logic behind the loop size on the fig 8, I've never thought about that before.

I'm going to share it with everyone in my club.

I've not got the Second Edition but the First Edition was ridiculously poor and almost every second diagram had me tearing my hair out about how confusing the advice was. 

Loads of very US-centric stuff (cordlettes and Munter Mule Overhands instead of a Slippery Hitch and Two Half Hitches) and a really weird reliance on classic prusiks and Mariner's knots rather than just a simple French Prusik. 

I suppose I should really get a copy of the newer version and see if it's any improvement. 

Essence-Shibari-Kinbaku has some useful knots.

I bought "Rope Techniques" by Bill March just for the front cover photo. It shows the late, sorely missed Louise Dickie climbing Central Pillar with badly twisted double ropes. We've all been there but to reproduce it on an instructional book is amazing. And I've just noticed that both ropes are the same colour. 

While Nigel Sheppard's book may be dated, a beginner could do far, far worse. ..........lets face it it used to be essentially 'the' rope-work manual for aspirant guides, and has been borrowed from in some form for nearly every manual since (and often not improved upon).

Clear photographs, and logical explanations a beginner will come away understanding building and equalizing belays (using ropes, slings and cords), be able to recover from dropping their belay plate, will be able to lock-off a belay plate, understand a variety of prussiks knots and a bit about escaping the system, and even multiple evacuations.  A solid foundation to build on......

OK it doesn't cover modern kit developments; guide plates, reverso's, micro ascenders etc, and yes the bits about figure of 8's, karabiner stacks, piton bar brakes, alpine clutches, semi-classic abseils have all passed (mostly) into history.

I agree a replacement of similar clarity incorporating modern gear and techniques is well over due.

I think an amazing resource for what you've described would be V Diff Climbing:

https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/trad/

The illustrations are the best of any textbook in my mind, with clear and concise text. Hope it helps!

Cheers, Will

I love using a cordalette! Don't understand why it seems so alien to UK climbers as it seems to have so many benefits (multipitch at least).