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Rope Recommendations and Advice

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 jmchich 07 Aug 2019

I am fairly new to climbing (9 months of bouldering indoors, 2 months trad seconding, 2 very easy trad leads). The club I climb with mostly does trad with half ropes, but tends to head indoors for lead climbs when the weather gets bad.

I'm looking for recommendations for ropes. Firstly, I'm unsure whether to get a half rope to complement those brought along by climbing partners, or get a triple-certified rope that I could then take indoors or for sport climbing outdoors.

The first option would mean I need to then get a single rope for indoor/sport, but perhaps splitting the wear between multiple ropes might be more efficient in the long run?

I don't have an unlimited budget, but I don't mind spending a bit more money upfront to prevent spending more in the long run. Anyone able to advise? Much appreciated.

John

 bpmclimb 07 Aug 2019
In reply to jmchich:

I would suggest getting a budget single, not too skinny (9.5-10mm), long enough for the outdoor sport routes which you're likely to do, but also not too inconveniently long for indoors (hopefully that compromise is possible - depends on height of your local sport crags). In addition, you could buy a relatively cheap 8.5mm 50m half rope for trad; alternatively, ask your trad partners to bring two ropes in the short term and buy the half a bit later.

...... by the way, at the risk of stating the obvious, but because I've mentioned compromising on length: be very careful not to lower or be lowered off outdoor sport routes with insufficient rope - if in any doubt, have a knot in the back end (or back end tied to rope bag/mat).

 climberchristy 07 Aug 2019
In reply to jmchich:

Hi. Yes as stated above...on sports routes or at wall always tie end of rope to bag or in a knot. 

As for what rope to buy. If for now you buy just a single you can always lead off both ends as two doubles. Works well (but only on relatively  short single pitch crags). E.g. you buy 60m single not too fat  e.g 9.5 mm.  When you want doubles and your partner has no rope you tie into both ends thus in effect leading on 2x30m doubles. Say you climb 20m route. Still have 10m spare on each strand to belay at top. 


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