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Castlebergh Crag, Settle

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 emmahalliday 26 Sep 2010
hello wanting to get into outdoor climbing and just bought some quickdraws. looking for somewhere locally outdoor to go and saw castlebergh crag mentioned. just wondered how many quickdraws are usually needed for the majority of the routes?

thanks
emma
In reply to emmahalliday: 8 quickdraws will get you up most single pitch sports routes. Please be aware that the easier graded routes at this crag are known for loose rock. I would suggest Giggleswick south. Better rock and only a few minutes away from Castlebergh.
 Bulls Crack 26 Sep 2010
In reply to James Paul Robinson:
> (In reply to emmahalliday) 8 quickdraws will get you up most single pitch sports routes. Please be aware that the easier graded routes at this crag are known for loose rock. I would suggest Giggleswick south. Better rock and only a few minutes away from Castlebergh.

All too true and it applies to most, if not all, of the lower grade sport routes and venues in York's (and UK generally really). Foredale has some easier routes but again some loose areas, Gigg south and North also have loose bits. For better quality rock and routes at this level you're better off with trad! Helmet recommended whatever!
Wiley Coyote2 26 Sep 2010
In reply to Bulls Crack:
> (In reply to James Paul Robinson)
> [...]
>
Swallows Nest at Gigg South is pretty solid and has some easier routes (5s & 5+s) with friendly bolting to get you started but be careful further along the crag. Some sectors (eg Swans) were bolted in the early days and will probably feel quite spacey if you are only used to wall bolting.
 mark catcher 26 Sep 2010
In reply to emmahalliday: Robin proctors scar/norber would be a safer bet for beginners sport routes though again, watch for loose rock.
 Simon Caldwell 26 Sep 2010
In reply to mark catcher:
I would never put 'safe' in the same sentence as 'Robin Procters Scar' without the addition of 'not'!
I know of 2 people who have had near misses there with falling rock.
 mark catcher 27 Sep 2010
In reply to emmahalliday: I wasn't suggesting it was safe, merely safer than the pile of choss the OP was thinking of visiting. To be honest, there aren't any super-solid beginners routes I can think of. If you want safe bolted routes you'd be best on the Catwalk, but easy it ain't!
 alpine69 29 Sep 2010
In reply to emmahalliday:

have a look at the leeds wall web site and down load the free mini guides for the area , there is a lot of climbing areas where you are and a whole host of new climbs in the area which you are looking at , one to go and have a look at would be foredale , its a vast area , but choose your day and clothing well because it can be very cold
 Pagan 29 Sep 2010
In reply to Toreador:

RPS is a damn sight safer than Castlebergh or Foredale. The only solid bit of the latter is the Main Wall, the rest is loose on varying scales. I've broken one hold at RPS and that was obviously friable (and off route).
 Jamie B 29 Sep 2010
In reply to emmahalliday:

Wear a helmet; this kinda stuff happens: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136962

Alternatively, get into trad. It's infinitely better in the low grades.
 chris_j_s 30 Sep 2010
In reply to Jamie Bankhead:
> (In reply to emmahalliday)
>
> Wear a helmet; this kinda stuff happens: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=136962
>
> Alternatively, get into trad. It's infinitely better in the low grades.

More accurately, that 'kind of thing' happened once! I won't disagree with the sentiment that the easy routes at Castlebergh aren't very good but that is not the same as being dangerous and over the course of the last 18 months surprisingly little has fallen off despite their loose appearance. Of course it is recommended to wear a helmet because, like all easy yorkshire limestone, it is possible to dislodge small rocks.

Really though you need to be climbing 6c - 7a+ for the better routes there - other venues are definitely better for 6b and below.

Regarding quickdraws, the longest route at Castlebergh requires 14 or 15 but everything else can be done with 10 or less.

I would actually recommend Moughton Nab for low grade sport routes. I've done quite a bit up there this summer and whilst short, the routes are often surprisingly good fun.
Wiley Coyote2 30 Sep 2010
In reply to chris_j_s:


> I would actually recommend Moughton Nab for low grade sport routes. I've done quite a bit up there this summer and whilst short, the routes are often surprisingly good fun.

Good idea. Presume you mean 'Soft Centre' as described on the Leeds Wall site rather than the main Nab in the current (rather old) guide. Lots of solid (for Yorkshire limestone) routes, esp around the 6a/b mark.

 Bulls Crack 30 Sep 2010
In reply to Wiley Coyote:
> (In reply to chris_j_s)
>
>
> [...]
>
> Good idea. Presume you mean 'Soft Centre' as described on the Leeds Wall site rather than the main Nab in the current (rather old) guide. Lots of solid (for Yorkshire limestone) routes, esp around the 6a/b mark.

yep good idea - fun despute their brevity. It does seep though if the moor above is wet
 Sam_in_Leeds 30 Sep 2010
In reply to emmahalliday:
You could always try Leeds Wall?

Far safer than Yorkshire Limestone¬
 chalkyjim 30 Sep 2010
In reply to chris_j_s:

Happened more than once i nearly got a block land on me while belaying and that was on one of the 7a routes. The thing is to be carefull and try holds before you really pull on them. Or go somewhere good.
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 wibble 30 Sep 2010
In reply to emmahalliday:

Worth reading...

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15862.0.html

Try north Wales - Castle inn quarry and Pen Maen Head and keep away from any of the above as it may put you off climbing for life....

(or go to France)
Wiley Coyote2 01 Oct 2010
In reply to wibble:
> (In reply to emmahalliday)
>
> Worth reading...
>
> http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15862.0.html
>
> Try north Wales - Castle inn quarry
Gulp! Since it's in a pub car park it seems quite friendly but there are some very scarey runouts for the uninitiated, especiay if you are used to a-clip-a-metre bolting on walls.
 Bulls Crack 01 Oct 2010
In reply to wibble:
> (In reply to emmahalliday)
>
> Worth reading...
>
> http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,15862.0.html
>
> Try north Wales - Castle inn quarry and Pen Maen Head and keep away from any of the above as it may put you off climbing for life....
>
> (or go to France)

Good link and a good honest assessment of C'berg to counter...'the excellent climbing venue it is today'....arrrgh!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 01 Oct 2010
In reply to Wiley Coyote:
>
> Gulp! Since it's in a pub car park it seems quite friendly but there are some very scarey runouts for the uninitiated, especiay if you are used to a-clip-a-metre bolting on walls.

Though that could be said of any outdoor sport venue?

Chris
Wiley Coyote2 01 Oct 2010
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to Wiley Coyote)
> [...]
>
> Though that could be said of any outdoor sport venue?
>
> Chris

Well, some more than others. We stopped there on a miserable afternoon last year after being rained out of Wales and did a couple of routes. Maybe we were just not in the mood for it but we both thought the bolting was a bit sparse compared to what we're used to - and we've both done a lot in the UK and abroad. Almost vintage St Victoire or Saussois. I thought a couple of the routes you could deck clipping the second piece. Maybe they are just tough in Wales - or even more stingey than Tykes.
 wibble 01 Oct 2010
In reply to Sam_in_Leeds:
> (In reply to emmahalliday)
> You could always try Leeds Wall?
>
> Far safer than Yorkshire Limestone¬

or is it.... http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?n=427531
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