UKC

I know that a few people on here have been to Lofoten (some even from the UK!). I have read what I can find of previous threads but none seem to give more than outline details of travel to/from Lofoten and how long it takes. I need to see if it's realistic in the fairly short amount of time we have available to make the trip. If you can spare the time, please post brief details or email me.

Many thanks.

In reply to JonC:

You need a day either end for travel realistically. People try and save a few quid mincing around on a train for a few days, but you'll blow that on a packet of crisps once there. Don't worry about the money and make the most of it.

We flew Heathrow-Oslo-Bodo-Svolvear, then hire car to Hennigsvaar. Booked the flights as one through the SAS group so they are liable for ensuring you make the connections. Cost around £300 return I think, about the same price half a dozen beers in the local pub.

Stayed in fishing cabins in the village, most of the climbing is walking distance, amazing rock, scenery, 24hrs daylight etc.

In reply to gavin g:

Sounds brilliant. The flights and car travel be done in a day then I take it?

What time of year did you visit and how cold/warm was it? I would guess quite a wide range of potential temps.

Any routes you would recommend?

Did you use the Rockfax mini-guide and/or any others?

It looks a lovely place visit before you even get to the climbing.

Cheers

Jon

In reply to JonC:

Car travel leg is only about 20k. Actually, I think we got a taxi from Svolvaar to Henigsvaar on the way out, did without a hire car for most of the time, only getting one for the last couple of days, including the journey back to the airport at Svolvaar.

Went early August 2003, couple of days rain, but mostly sun, temp around 20c. Was able to swim in the sea a couple of times (100k north of the Arctic Circle)

Plenty to do in the Rockfax mini guide, if you’re into long stuff Vestpilleren looks amazing, and if you do Blar Blaben it's worth going all the way to the top. There's a climbers shop in Henniggsvar which has got another (out of print?) guide book, can’t remember the name, but it’s fairly old and written by an English guy

In reply to JonC:

I climbed in Lofoten last May, although it was sunny most of the time it was pretty cold and if I went again I would consider going in July or August.

The guidebook is called "Climbing in the Magic Islands" by Ed Webster (he is an American). While it is out of print there were loads of copies for sale in the Henningsvaer Climbing shop in May last year.

For the most of the time we used the Rockfax Miniguide since it was more up to date and generally more accurate in terms of approaches, route descriptions and grades. You will need the Webster guide though if you want to climb on the Solvaergeita or around Kalle (both highly recommended).

With regards to good routes Bare Blåbaer stood out as excellent and there were loads of great shorter climbs to explore at Paradiset.

Also if you have enough room in your baggage its worth taking along a fishing rod. Using the local lures the sea fishing at Henningsvear was excellent, in fact it was so good that after only a couple of hours on each of our rest days we had enough meat to feed us for the whole ten days we were there.

In reply to all:

Great stuff. Thanks for the tips. Now have a better idea as to how to start organising.

In reply to JonC: I suppose telling you it takes 17 hours with minimal stops from Helsinki doesn't help much does it?

I've been there for three seperate weeks over three different summers and on the whole climbed in just a thermal and medium weight long trousers. Occasionally I've added a pertex windshirt, and very occasionally a lined-windshirt (driclime thingy). Shorts can be nice on some days.

Evenings can be cooler - hat, gloves and duvet nice. Take water proofs although I've hardly worn more

In reply to TobyA:

Well, if we assume it will take Sat/Sun to get there and settle in, and the same in reverse, we can get Mon to Fri on the rock (weather and other activities permitting).

Any other tips? Do you think we need a hire car or can it all be done using taxis and walking?

In reply to gavin g:

Did you stay at one of the cabins in Hennisgvar? Any good?

I've been looking into cabins at Svolvaer. Not sure if this is better or worse (other than being further away).

Does anyone know where I can get a copy (or photocopy?) of the local guide (I have the Rockfax mini-guide already)?