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Climbing footwear - first timer

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kate jackson 16 Jun 2005
HI; on climbing course, and really getting into it; am new to the sport and finding it irritating trying to feel with my feet thru regular trainers; would like to buy decent footwear without breaking the bank, any recommendations/advice? cheers
djviper 16 Jun 2005
In reply to kate jackson: what ever fit you feet comfortably
 Marc C 16 Jun 2005
In reply to kate jackson: What size are you? Sometime Rock+Run have bargain prices on small sizes.

If size 5, I have a pair of rock slippers (unused or barely used) that I'd sell fairly cheaply.
In reply to kate jackson: Probably something with a stiff sole and buy them in a comfortable size. They will be miles better than trainers. Any good shop will be able to advise. Expect to pay about £45 to £50.

The main thing is comfort!!!
kate jackson 16 Jun 2005
In reply to Marc C: I am a size 5; what are you charging?
 Marc C 16 Jun 2005
In reply to kate jackson: Just checked my garage! My memory wasn't quite accurate: I have a pair of used size 5.5 Red Chilis (the red ones with orange Vs on the top) - good condition with plenty of wear left in them (they're quite a narrow fit). Also I have totally unused size 6 Boreal Zen velcro rock slippers (I'm size 6.5/7 shoe size and can get nowhere near getting them on).

If they're any use to you, I would charge £15 (inc p+p) for the Red Chilis - and £25 for the Zens.
 Dominion 16 Jun 2005
In reply to kate jackson:

Try some on in a shop first, whatever you do. Some makes have women's sizes/fit too - and make sure they're comfortable.

I'd also suggest getting some thin trainer liner type socks first, and wearing them to your fitting as they will stop your shoes getting a bit pongy.

You probably don't need a really technical shoe, but it's nice to have something that's sensitive - and not too expensive, because beginners usually have poor footwork, and tend to wear shoes pretty fast.

Having said that, I've still got my first pair of rock shoes, which are comfy - but feel heavy and clunky, but I could still climb an F6b+ last time I wore them to the indoor wall, despite them having no edges left on the soles...
 Wingnut 17 Jun 2005
In reply to kate jackson:
Your local wall probably does shoe hire (most do) . . . may be worth using their hire boots for a couple of sessions just to get a feel for how they're supposed to fit . . . buying boots too large or cripplingly small is an easy mistake to make and works out expensive!

(And if the shop insists that your first pair of rock boots should be so much too small that they are actually painful, go to a different shop! Do remember that some stretch more than others, though.)
Dave Hunter, Rock + Run 17 Jun 2005
In reply to Dominion:

You will very likely get a comfier fit from a shoe that laces all the way to the toe

eg Mad Rock Phoenix, La Sportiva Cliff Blue, Scarpa Vantage

There are very few women's specific rock shoes and they will tend to be too technical (requiring a tighter fit) for a beginner.

Avoid velcros because although easy to get on/off you need to sit them tightly to avoid excess bagging at the toe. Most people wearing velcros have bought them too big and would be better with a laced shoe.

There is certainly no need to pay more than £60 for a starting shoe.
murphcbr6 17 Jun 2005
In reply to kate jackson: first go to your local climbing wall and try on a few pairs of hire shoes.

bear in mind that climbing shoes are expected to be very snug.

Then go tour local climbing shop and try on as many pairs as you can. you might have wide or narrow feet and that can make all the difference.

Personally I wouldn't be tempted to buy a pair of boots on the internet. I've sometimes found that the even different shoes that on the box are the same same size/make of boot can have a different fit - every shoe can be unique.
Dave Hunter, Rock + Run 17 Jun 2005
In reply to murphcbr6:

There is no need to try on as many different pairs as you can. Many will simply be unsuitable (too technical) or the wrong shape. Any decent shop will be able to save you time and probably money in this respect
 Stefan Kruger 17 Jun 2005
In reply to kate jackson:

Beware also that as a beginner you will wear through your first few pairs of rock boots very quickly, until your footwork skills solidify. Cheap & comfy is what to aim for.
murphcbr6 17 Jun 2005
In reply to Dave Hunter, Rock + Run:

OK fair enough you don't need to try on every pair in the shop, the point I was trying to make though is that if you try on a range of fits it gives you a chance to gauge what differences there can be between models - some have an aggresive heel for example and can be uncomfortable for women with lower achilles - very slim feet are better suited to lace up than velcro etc.

with all due respect, some sales people in the outdoor industry can be a bit monosyllabic - I often find that I'm better off just investing a bit of my time on a quiet day to trying a number of pairs on.

I fully agree with you about not needing an overly technical shoe though.
Dave Hunter, Rock + Run 17 Jun 2005
In reply to murphcbr6:

There are some (many?) shops for which your approach is best. Better to go to a decent shop though. And there are just about enough of these dotted over the country.

A decent shop should be able to do all the eliminating of patenbtly unsuitable shoes for you and leave you needing to try 3-4 pairs. Maybe half a dozen if you've got very difficult feet
Pete W 17 Jun 2005
In reply to kate jackson:

MadRock

Laces - Phoenix
Velcro - Flash

Scarpa

Laces - Reflex or Eclipse
Velcro - Veloce Lady

Pete

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