UKC

The Moon is currently a grade harder than anything me and my regular partner have attempted before - is it a reasonable prospect ?

There are a lot of pegs described in the route description - what state are they in ? are they neccessary or is there good natural gear ? In the event of an epic, what are the opportunities for retreat ?

Many Thanks

In reply to GrahamD: Wouldn't be my choice as a first E3. It is a sensational route but I think retreat woul dbe tricky and unless the pegs have been replaced in the last 14 years they must be in a pretty crap state by now. There is some decent natural pro available to back them up though as I recall. Probably need someone who's been on it more recently for up-to-date info though.

In reply to GrahamD:

Don't rely on pegs on sea cliffs except as an indicator where the route goes. They are not neccessary with modern gear, though some moves may feel bolder as the gear may be lower than the peg.

In the event of a retreat, the retreat itself will be the epic!

Bob

In reply to Bob:

Thanks. Any idea how much idea would I get of the Moon from Creeping Leema ?

In reply to GrahamD:

Hard climbing is short lived. Though be prepared for a bit of exposed climbing.

Be careful of the birds nest on the 1st pitch belay!

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Thanks. Nesting birds are a bit ubiquitous at Gogarth !

In reply to GrahamD:

Nothing a hex 11 wont sort out

In reply to Adam Lincoln: I used to sqwark at them, I think it confused them so they generally left me alone.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

I always find after a couple of swings, a hex 11 is swinging me rather than vice versa !

In reply to GrahamD:

Retreat – hmm, tricky. If you’re thinking of giving it a go on Sunday and failing, I’d take Monday off work.

I see the programme something like this:

Step one: leader fails. Lower him directly into the sea. Leader splashes to shore and belays.

Step two. Second abseils into sea using a single rope and is hauled to shore by leader using the other rope.

Step three: Both climbers remove and abandon gear save for harnesses, abseil devices and prussik loops (you will need these later for my plan).

Step four: Both climbers swim to the bottom of Castell Helen.

Step five: Both climbers solo Lighthouse Arete. (or of course, one of you does this and throws down spare rope to shivering partner)

Step six: Revert to top of Yellow Wall and fix abseil.

Step seven: Abseil down to retrieve gear. Discover that crag overhangs to extent that you cannot get into land. Prussik back on abseil rope. Scare crap out of self.

Step eight: Having reconsidered, abseil down again into the sea. Struggle to land. Retrieve gear from there, and prussic up the abseil rope you used in step two, remembering to use some kind of device on the first abseil rope.

Step nine: on arrival at belay, clip into same. Pull up the abseil rope you’ve just prussiked up. Coil it.

Step ten: clean belay, having first made sure you are attached firmly to the abseil rope.

Step eleven: take almighty swing out over the sea. Soil yourself with fear. Eventually come to rest and….

Step twelve: prussic back to the top carrying the two climbing ropes and the entire rack.

You may want to draw lots for some of these tasks before you start. Should provide good motivation.

jcm

In reply to Anonymous: I didn't think anyone was there when my then partner decided to try 'The Drunk' but I'm beginning to wonder.

In reply to GrahamD: For the traditional approach try Taking the Saturn V or if you're all modern the space shuttle

In reply to Anonymous:

I see a picture emerging here ! Maybe creeping Leema would be a good plan to get a feel for Yellow wall.

In reply to sloper:

Modern ? I fancy the look of that anti gravity pack captain Kirk used at Yosemite (truly a low point in Star Trek, that episode).

In reply to GrahamD: Sound thinking my son!

In reply to Dave C:

The Moon - its easy!

Drive to Stoney - park in the car park - negotiate the tricky steps (ooh about a Mod - may have in situ peg)

Make way to bar and order...

The last bit gets E9 when its been a right boozy dooze!

;0)

Si

PS what happened to U Sun Dave?

In reply to Simon:


Long story, didn't have my phone on all day. I'll call you on Friday.

In reply to GrahamD:

Proabably not as a 1st E3 due to its position, but the actual climbing is pretty easy for E3 really, and well protected.

Creeping Leema is a bit easier - the climbing is mostly easy with each pitch having a short lived 5c ish bit. Probably more loose rock on this than the moon, but not a problem if your steady.

At very low tide you should be able to scramble out to the right (looking in). Other than that, its a grim prussik. Retreat off the routes them selves would be interesting.

In reply to GrahamD:

Although it takes in some steep ground it never feels steep as you climb under the roofs and up corners of undercut slabs.

Retreat would be awkward but if you fell off or rested on the gear you could probably get to the top.

Not recommended as a first E3 and both members need to be capable at the grade as it kinda traverses a bit and some of the gear is a bit spaced.

J

In reply to Ropeboy:

Cheers, thanks. Not looking for E3s per se, I just got drawn in by the "only the best route in the world" quote in the guidebook.

In reply to John Cox:

That was fantastic. Could you possibly supply me with equally effective motivation to not f*ck up, er, Christmas Crack at Stanage?

In reply to Jamie B.: Also brought back some disturbing memories to at least one person on here.....err, me actually.

In reply to DaveC at Work:

What's the deal with the Drunk then? Is it a "doable" E6 or not?

In reply to Tyler: Wasn't for us in '91. An amazing route but pretty scary in places (very poor rock/mud low down, very exposed up higher.) We had a bit of an epic retrieving all my partners gear from the crux pitch (none of which was particularly good.) I managed to end up with a severely bruised left hand & forearm and back strain after holding his rather impressive fall, made worse by the aftershocks as his last two runners failed.

(JCMs little parable above is only slightly more 'epic' than our reality was, mind you, I was pretty much one-handed.)

In reply to GrahamD:
I did do it as both mine and my partners first E3. We were both climbing fairly solidly at E2 at the time and had climbed The Strand and another E2 ('diamond something' on the main cliff?) the day before so were inspired to give it a go.

Found the climb quite bold and obivously committing but not unduly sustained or too hard and was OK to protect with wires and cams ... our main problem involved untangling poor ropework at the second belay for 45 mins! We had to wait for a copuple of parties before starting and ended up finishing with the sun setting and the moon in the sky, appropriately enough, so I'd suggest starting out early.
It was one of the most memorable climbs I've done - particulalry because it was at the limit of my grade - so if you're up for it I'd highly recommend it. (NB Glad I didn't read jcm's top tips for the retreat before we set off!)