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Dorset Rockfax - Now Available

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 TRNovice 04 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

This has got to be up there with The Second Coming...

I guess it will hopefully be waiting for us when we get back from the US
clarke 04 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

Is it available in shops yet? I want to go to Portland on wednesday and I'd like to pick up a copy on the way down if possible.
In reply to clarke:

I doubt it. The distributors only got their stock today and it usually takes a few days for them to get it into the shops. If you had ordered online then you probably would have had it on Wednesday morning (although we couldn't have guaranteed that).
 PaulW 05 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC: Has the coverage of Swanage been expanded? The old guide had lots of missing routs at my kind of grade, esp at Guillemot Ledge.
 Ben Stokes Global Crag Moderator 05 Jul 2005
In reply to PaulW:

Have a look at the dorset database...
In reply to PaulW:
> (In reply to Alan James - UKC) Has the coverage of Swanage been expanded? The old guide had lots of missing routs at my kind of grade, esp at Guillemot Ledge.

The book has come out at 320 pages and we really didn't want to make it much bigger than that. Hence only a few more routes have been added to the Swanage section including a few classics at Cormorant.

Guillemot has pretty good coverage actually (as did the last guide). The only routes missing are the non-star routes in the middle section (around Mistaken Identity). 10 routes in all but having had a quick flick through them there doesn't look like much of interest. Had you got any particular route in mind?

Alan
Sharket 05 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

What about the new bolted routes at Winspit, there seem to be alot there that aren't in it?

I haven't had mine yet and I ordered online! :-/

Am getting abnormally excited about it...
In reply to Sharket:
> What about the new bolted routes at Winspit, there seem to be alot there that aren't in it?

Are there? Which ones? I am not aware of any.

> I haven't had mine yet and I ordered online! :-/

Be with you on Thursday probably, maybe Friday depending on the post.
Sharket 06 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:
>
> Are there? Which ones? I am not aware of any.

Was down there a couple of weeks ago and came across Scott Titt (think that's his name, its defo scott something, slim chap, beard, features in the CC swanage and portland guide in nice purple shorts and also in even nicer purple leggings) at the crag and he was pointing out several new routes that had been bolted on the main area, lower grade stuff, thats all, he was rather insistent that it would all be featuring in the new CC swanage guide due out at the end of the year!
In reply to Sharket:

Well if those have been added in the last few weeks then it is not likely that they will be in the book.

Alan
Sharket 06 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

Well they were bolted a coupla months ago I was led to believe. Ho hum, nevermind, all the more for me to do before they get all polished!
 'Hilda' 07 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC: My copy has just turned up - did they have to use so much tape! It took ages to break into the box!

By the way - it's great!
 Oli 07 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC: Do you have the ISBN number for it? As i would like to use up some book tokens that i have and none of the climbing shops accept them so I will inevitably order it through the local bookshop. Unforunately it will probably take significantly longer
In reply to Oli:

The ISBN number is 1-873341-90-3

It may take a while although places like Amazon do now list our more recent books as 24 hour dispatch. However they won't have got any copies of this one until next week at the earliest.

Cheers
 Mick Ward 07 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

My copy arrived really quickly. Many thanks!

Mick
nrjenman 08 Jul 2005
Yey, at last a new guide book for swanage and portland. I pre-ordered mine as soon as I heard (last week i think), hasn't arrived yet and I will be down at winspit all this weekend Hope it come today.

I too have noticed some shiny new bolted routes that appear to have no mention. The ones I have climbed are on the east most quarry face at hedbury, easy stuff. Will they be in the new guide? How outdated is the old guide?

I await with bated breath.

Neil.
 Ben Stokes Global Crag Moderator 08 Jul 2005
In reply to nrjenman:

These will be the new 1's, 2's and 3's from Jim Titt and are featured in the new Rockfax.

See http://www.rockfax.com/databases/results_buttress.html?id=351
 Phil Murray 09 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

My pre-ordered copy arrived yesterday. Fantastic book to browse with cup of tea on a sunny saturday morning!

Can't wait to get out there & start clipping! thanks RockFax, these photoguides are inspirational.
Glenn Haworth 09 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC: Haven't got mine yet The wife pre-ordered a copy for a friend about 4 weeks after mine and we got hers Thursday :'(
 phil webber 11 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

I've not recieved my pre-ordered copy yet, do you know when I'm likely to? I'm not planning any trips to dorset for a least a few weeks, but would be nice to know my order hasn't gone astray!

Thanks
jamie honeychurch 11 Jul 2005
Yeah - me neither. I was also getting a little concerned that there was a problem...

Be nice to get it soon!

Jamie
 Rob in a Field 11 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James -

Recived mine on friday, i had preordered it. Just the Flu stopped me getting out and enjoying some dorset rock! oh well theres always next weekend!

Cheers

Rob
nrjenman 11 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

Mine arrived friday, just in time for a weekend spent down at swanage. What an awesome guide! The best I have ever seen and what a contrast to the old guide book!

Although some might say it takes all of the challange out of decoding the guide book and decifering where the route is. But at least you won't set out on a HS 4B and end up on a E9 7C+ !
In reply to phil webber:
> I've not recieved my pre-ordered copy yet, do you know when I'm likely to?

Well all the orders have been sent out but there were a few problems with incomplete addresses on some orders. If your book hasn't arrived then send me an email with your name and address in it and I'll check it up.

Alan
Jules King 11 Jul 2005
You could alternatively hold out for the new CC guide to the area, it is definitive.

 TRNovice 12 Jul 2005
In reply to TRNovice:

Was here on our return as anticipated - need to get out and use it now .
In reply to Jules King:
> You could alternatively hold out for the new CC guide to the area, it is definitive.

The CC are only producing a new Portland guide however their definitive 1995 Swanage guide is still available I think.
The Rockfax is virtually definitive coverage for Portland.

Alan
 steve taylor 12 Jul 2005
In reply to Alan James - UKC:

The CC Guide will be Portland AND Lulworth and CAN claim to be definitive. All of the existing trad routes and DWS will be included, and a greater depth of bouldering will be covered too. However - unlike the Rockfax, it is not available yet.

A reprint of Nigel Coe's Swanage guide is available in the shops.

 Owen W-G 13 Jul 2005
Spook now E1, Ledgend Direct now HVS - people will start thinking Guillemot Ledge is a soft touch crag!
 Max factor 14 Jul 2005
In reply to Owen W-G:

yes- where is the inevitable thread banging on about all the upgrades? Did I miss it or are we all blase about it these days? Three of the 8 routes i did on my last visit to Portland have been upgraded from 6b something to 6c; that is quite a high percentage. Though thinking back it is probably deserved for 2 of them.
 Wilbur 14 Jul 2005
In reply to Max_01:

Or the downgrades. Three fingers has gone from 6A to 4 which is frankly laughable as it's at least 5+...!
 viking 17 Jul 2005
In reply to Wilbur:

Upgrading Monsoon Malabar from 5+ to 6A - completely right, I reckon...

Shame I didn't do it clean! And yes I am stalking you

Well done on the book Rockfax - great photographic topos even my mum was impressed with it! It must have been great going around Portland in a boat (and in the sun). So far, only seen one climber in a picture though...it's a little bit like where's wally - great game to play when bored.
 chris j 17 Jul 2005
In reply to viking:
> (In reply to Wilbur)

> So far, only seen one climber in a picture though...it's a little bit like where's wally - great game to play when bored.

I can picture Alan standing up in his inflatable boat, megaphone at his lips:

"Ok guys, I'm about to take a photo for the guide, everyone hide please!"
 steve taylor 20 Jul 2005
In reply to chris j:

I expect they've all been "shopped" out if they were there.

Photos were taken (from Neal+Helen Heanes lovely speedboat) mid-week in May last year, so it's likely the crags were empty.

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