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Peru...Chile...Argentina...

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 Panda 18 Sep 2005
Hey hey hey!

Off to Peru tomorrow and then over the next few months making my way through Chile and Argentina....anyone got any tips for me??! Doubt I'll manage to get much climbing in but any tips for things i mustn't miss....go on, I know somebody will have a gem for me!!

Cheers everybody!

Pxx
Anonymous 18 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda: Arrica is a nice place to spend a few days. No info on climbing I'm afraid.
sparkit 19 Sep 2005
In reply to Anonymous:
If you're in Patagonia, co climbing in El Chalten. Loads of sport and trad routes there. And it has stunning scenery.
Nao 19 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda:
Used to live in Argentina when we were younger... can't really tell you about climbing as I didn't do it back then, but...

Iguazu falls are amazing and worth a visit if you like that sort of thing (lots of water). Not sure if they have strengthened the bridges but they used to have this rickety old footbridge going right out to a part called the Devil's throat. Scary but awesome.

We used to go down to Recoletta (sp?) on Sundays and watch the world go by. There are lots of cafes where you can sit and drink and they have tango dancers doing their stuff. There's also a pretty impressive cemetery. Doesn't sound that exciting but it was really good.

Parillas(sp?) are these massive barbecue things - basically a big fire around which they hang carcasses on sticks. They eat all sorts of really grim looking meat (intestines and the like) but it is worth visiting one just for the experience! Beef is soooo cheap in Argentina and really good quality. You might as well not bother going if you're veggie, as they don't really cater to non meat eaters!

Freddos is an Argentinean ice cream chain which does 10 shedloads of flavours. They also do the biggest ice creams you've ever seen (eg about a foot in height). There are chains all over Buenos Aires.

If you can go and spend some time on an estancia (ranch), that's pretty cool. There is lots of wilderness in Argentina which contrasts with the complete overcrowdedness of the city (BA).

The Hurlingham club is a posh country club. If you like polo/horseriding then it is a good place to go. Not sure how expensive it would be to get in, but the celebs go there!

Football is a big deal in Argentina - you basically support Boca or River. Worth visiting Boca too as it has all these cool multi-coloured houses.

That's about all I can remember... was there about 10 years ago, so it may have all changed since then!

Nao
 TobyT 19 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda:

Returned from a 5 month trip in that area earlier this year. Argentina, Chile and Southern Peru.

Argentina
Buenos Aires is a sophisticated party city. On the basis that I would get drunk and not leave if I wasn't careful I only stayed 4 days. Every one else I met who had been loved it. Other than the social life there is about 3 days of things to see (Tango, Recolleta cemetary, various other districts.)
Aregentinain Patagonia hasn't got a lot going for it, it's fairly desolate and almost desert (due to the Andes stopping the rain). Some remote and impressive nature reserves on the coast, good for seeing dolphins, seals, sealions, birdlife (particularly magallenic penguins). Puerto Madryn is the popular spot, and usually the furthest south most people go down the coast. It's main attraction is the Right Whales during brithing season but the quantity of people means that you don't get that close to much else. If you do go spend the money to hire your own vehicle. Personally I would recommend Puerto Deseado, about 15 hours further south, as a better spot. Almost devoid of tourists and you can get within a few metres of much of the wildlife. There's nothing like experienceing the smell of damp sealion from a small boat.
The area has a couple of petrified forests. Unless you have plenty of time and a particular interest don't bother going if you are travelling by public transport. Very desolate, but other than that not that big or impressive.
Usahuai is either loved or hated by people. The city itself is not very big and caters largely to the Antarctic cruise ships. Go outside the 3 month window and it is meant to be quiet. There is a lot of remote couutry around it which is good for walking. Not a great variety of vegetaiton although much of it is old. The climbign si not very good due to the nature of the rock. Skiing is meant to be reasonable in Winter (although flying maybe the only way in). I travelled by bus both ways to Ushuia but I would recommend flying at least one way.
In the north there are a number of large sized cities, and like BA quite sophisticated. The further north you go the more colnial influence there is. Salta is perhaps the best. Iguazu falls are the biggest falls in South America and worth a visit, although it is very touristy. I didn't, but the recommednation from those that did, is not to visit both the Brazilian and Argentinian sides; the Aregentinian side is better and you see most of the falls. The walkways are now alll fairly modern.

Chilean Patagonia was for me the best bit. I include El Chalten and El Calafate in this because they are moste easily reached from Chile. Until recently there hasn't been much human influence here. Forests, Glaciars, and multdaywalking. Torres del Paine is a must do (and the full route is better than the W, but may not be open after the fire in February). El Chalten is more of an adventure centre, with climbing, walking and rafting all avialable; be aware that there was no cash machine there at the beginning of this year, take plenty with you it isn't cheap. If you have the time appraoch or leave this area via Argentian Route 40 (or if it's running now the ferry across to Lago O'Higgins) and the Caterra Austral (sp) in Chile.
The Chilean Lake district (volcano trekking and rafting) and Central coast are worth a visit, also the Chilean wine region. To the North of Santiago are La Serena (pisco production and Telescopes) and the Atacama Desert. Desert stuff (Salt-lakes, mountain biking and geysers) is probably best done from San Pedro de Atacama, which is also a high-level gateway to Bolivia and Argentina.
The Northern coast is good, although I would recommend Iqueque over Arica, the latter being a bit of an Industrial dump. Iqueuque has some reasonable surfing and one of the worlds best Paragliding locations, 360 days of sun a year and no-rain. You can learn to paraglide quite cheaply.


In southern Peru Arequipa is quite a nice place and Cusco is obvioulsy a must do. If you have the time and can find someone to do it with then one of the 'alternative Inca trails' is a better option than the official one. Cheaper, longer and a lot less busy. Guides aren't necessary either so you can plan it on your own but some knowledge of Quecha may be useful.

Can't be bothered to type more at the moment. Email me using profile if you want more info.
 Tom Last 19 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda:

Don't miss the Amazon, it's truly awesome.

Have fun
Major Jealous
 Rob Oram 19 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda: If you get a chance get to Bolivia, it was graet place! Stunning scenery and I'd second the comment above about the Amazon, spectacular...
timby 19 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda:

If you get a chance, Mendoza, Argentina, is a top place to stop - and not far from Passo Los Libertadores (if you're crossing between Argentina and Chile)

Cerveza Andes is probably the best local beer - not too gassy. Oh, and watch out - spirits are often served n half pint measures. Very messy :oP

OP Panda 19 Sep 2005
Thanks everyone - it sounds as though there is a lot of decent stuff to be seen. Well, i guess i knew that anyway which is why i am here in the first place! Am sitting in Santiago airport now after 16hrs flight and have to wait 7hrs before next flight to Peru...I{m itching to get out, but also feeling quite nervous!! Muppet traveller that I am!

Thanks for your tips though - i may well get in touch with you if i need more tips!
Cheers guys Px
 Obi Wan 26 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda:

Don't know if you are still around but if so you could check out the following link to my Dad's journal -
http://www.thechattles.mytraveljournals.com/j/default.asp
 Moacs 26 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda:

I have climbed in Argentina and Peru, but not Chile.

Argentina - Lovely food and Buenos Aires was a laugh. I do remember the girls being absolutely gorgeous though! Mendoza at wine festival time is fantastic and the street food of choice is "Barraluco"s

Peru - lovely people and sooo colourful. I didn't do the Inca stuff but up round Huaraz is pretty cool for trekking even if you don't get any hills.

Jealous!

John
Lizzie 26 Sep 2005
In reply to Panda:
chill out for a few days in Cusco, Peru. a very cool town with lots to do day and night.
if you're there in high water season then go white water rafting. amazing river.
OP Panda 01 Oct 2005
In reply to Lizzie: Just thought i{d check this out again...and am sitting in Cuzco writing this! Only got here this morning but Cuzco is cool! And may well go river running...v tempted!

I´m loving peru...chile in a couple of weeks though. Why is there never long enough when you´re travelling?!
 nz Cragrat 01 Oct 2005
In reply to Panda:

If you go river running don't drink the river !!

Cuzco is wonderful eh

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