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Scottish Routes To VDiff

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 Lawman 23 Sep 2005
I'm new to the purist Rock Climbing scene, I've scrambled and hiked and winter stuff but never Rock climbed before this year.

Now I'm happy leading to VDiff standard (perhaps HVDiff at a push). I'm off to Scotland in October and I'd like to do some good mountaineering style multi-pitch routes which invovle a summit (but they don't have to).

I'm going to Glencoe for 2 nights, Skye for 4 nights and Lochinver for 4 nights. Does anyone have any suggestions as to good VDiff routes up there?

Many thanks,

Rich
Slugain Howff 23 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman:

Drive past Agags in Glencoe which has a steep, intimidating last pitch which I don't think you would like yet.
If the weather is favourable drive further north and get a feel for the mountain environment by trying Tower Ridge on Nevis for a start.
 sutty 23 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman:

Some easier routes on Aonach dubh, East face. start at diff 500ft then increase in grades but all can lead to a walk over the top and on to Biddein. if you have not done Curved ridge on the Buchaille do it if the weather is clear, or maybe Crowberry ridge avoiding the first hard move.

Northeast Buttress on Nevis and Ledge route are both something to do to see where some harder routes go, only in clear weather as you need the views.

Some of the Skye ridge would be nice, oh and definitely do Pinnacle ridge on Sgurr na Gillean. An excellent route that is hard diff.
 Jonny Tee 69 24 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman: Crypt Route. One of the most entertaining days I've had out in the scottish hills.
 Jack Frost 24 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman:

Lochinver - West Ridge of Stac Pollaidh. Not a great route in itself - a bit wandering and hard to follow but finishes spectacularly on the summit.
 Lucy Wallace 24 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman:
Totally agree about Agags, Glencoe and Tower Ridge on the Ben.
I had an unforgettable day on Malory's Slab and Groove on the Western Buttress of Sron Na Ciche, Skye. Start really early though in October as route finding is tricky and it is a 300m route. (I'd be prepared to walk off the top in the dark)
If you can stop off on Arran on the way come and have a go on Souwester Slabs- a fantastic V Diff that is worth a detour from anwhere.
Iain Forrest 24 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman:
A few ideas, although at that time of year it'll really be the weather that decides!
Aonach Dubh in Glencoe - the initial two pitches of Bowstring (Diff going on V Diff), followed by Quiver Rib (Diff, brilliantly steep and exposed for the grade).
If you've enjoyed those, then Eve's Arete (V Diff) followed by Archer Ridge (V Diff, maybe going on Severe) is another good combo.
Bidean - Crypt Route - V Diff and really a 'different' experience!
The Buachaille - North Face Route (Severe) is a really good mountaineering route.
Glen Nevis - the Polldubh crags are low lying, and perhaps more likely to be pleasant to climb on in October than the high crags. Lots to choose from here. The Gutter is the classic at Diff; Heatwave is a great V Diff by its original line (on the first pitch go about halfway up the upper of two grooves then make an awkward step down to the groove below and finish up it, then continue as per guidebook description. For some reason the guidebook now says it follows the upper groove all the way, which is more like Hard Severe and out of keeping with the rest of the route). If you want something a wee bit harder there Secretary's Buttress Direct is a very pleasant Severe.
There's loads to do on Skye - good ones include Pinnacle Ridge on Gillean, Diff with a very exposed abseil; the round of Coire Lagan (quite a big day. Diff if you go up King's Chimney, awkward to start but very good); Median on Sron na Ciche at "Hard Diff" - in reality mostly scrambling and Diff but with a wee bit of V Diff and Severe and quite interesting routefinding; for a big day Little Gully ("Diff", but be prepared for an interesting bit in a cave...) followed by Arrow Route (bold but not hard V Diff), perhaps followed by Wallworks Route (the most exposed V Diff I've done, I think - and maybe worth thinking of it as Severe). It's possible to escape by scrambling off left after Little Gully, or after Arrow Route by downclimbing Moderate or abseiling from the neck of the Cioch. Cioch West (Severe) is also very worthwhile.
Heading North from there, you might want to stop off at Applecross and have a go at the Cioch Nose. The first couple of pitches may prove quite challenging for a V Diff leader, but they're safe enough and retreat is possible if you have to. After them it's easy enough, with fantastic exposure, but don't underestimate the time required to get from the top of the route along the ridge to the top of the hill.
Further North - as mentioned, the West Buttress of Stac Pollaidh is worth doing for the situation and the finish on top of the hill. Another route worth doing, at V Diff-ish, is the Lurgainn Edge on Cul Beag - again for the situation more than the climbing.
If you manage to get all these done, you'll have been very lucky with the weather!
 alasdair19 27 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman: east buttress of beinne eighe, awesome traverse in above the sandstone and then 200 m of very good steep rock with massive holds. not sure how easy it is to get to from lockinver but it drys very fast

 Alan Stark 27 Sep 2005
In reply to Iain Forrest:

North Face Route and Agag's combination on the Buhaille is a Classic Rock must do tick at V Diff. When did North Face get upgraded to severe? It's perfectly ok providing you find the correct start. (It's a few years since I did them, and didn't have sticky rubber or friends, though I did have EB's. Climbed them with sacks for our walking boots and butties).
Iain Forrest 27 Sep 2005
In reply to Alan Stark:
> When did North Face get upgraded to severe?
In the latest guidebook.
I thought the wee corner below the wet chimney was a bit on the hard side for V Diff, and maybe the traverse left above the chimney too. It's certainly harder than Agag's, whether or not that makes it Severe.
johnscholes 27 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman:There are lots ! when in Oct are you up !
Anonymous 28 Sep 2005
In reply to Lawman:

If you're in glencoe, then ardgour will be fairly easy to get to via the corran ferry. If you get across, the great ridge on Garbh Bheinn sounds just what you're after; a great line with good climbing that's quite long, and tops out at the summit cairn. It's only diff (and quite an easy diff at that), but if you take the direct start then it goes at Vdiff. Ardgour also tends to get slightly better weather than the hills further east (but I wouldn't count on it in October).

Mark
OP Lawman 28 Sep 2005
In reply to johnscholes:

We're going up on the 8th Oct for two nights in Glencoe, 4 on Skye and 4 in Lochinver. I've booked to go to the Ice Factor (a must do in Glencoe and it'll give my tools some practice before winter - if we have one this year).

I'm planning on doing something on the Buckle weather permitting - there was a Mod route in Trail that looks good but I'm not sure about where the damn thing starts.....lol.

Rich
dcraig 28 Sep 2005

Some cracking suggestions there. Tell me how do you get over the intimidation of the first mountain route as I've been a woose. All year and no mountain route - done loads of crags this year from gairloch to nevis to local edinburgh ones up to around VS4c, and a backed-off stab at an HS in Nevis but haven't done a mountain route (Curved Ridge being an exception but it's a scramble)....or a mutli pitch...and get intimidated at the thought of it. Been wanting to do Tower Ridge for eons now and still not done it... arg. How do I get over it?

Think some of it has to do with parter not being as confident so I feel v responsible when out.

(sorry just ranting at myself, didn't meant to hijack the good thread)

 Simon Caldwell 28 Sep 2005
In reply to dcraig:
> Tell me how do you get over the intimidation of the first mountain route

I never had that problem, I was doing mountain routes before I started cragging. It sounds like you're happy in the mountains generally (since you discount Curved Ridge as it's just a scramble) so you shouldn't have any trouble. Think of it as just like a scramble, only much safer.
dcraig 28 Sep 2005
In reply to Simon Caldwell:
Think its more the thought of "what if something goes wrong" and have to back off because of me, or partner reaching something unexpected....
Cheers.
 Norrie Muir 28 Sep 2005
In reply to dcraig:
> (In reply to Simon Caldwell)
> Think its more the thought of "what if something goes wrong" and have to back off because of me, or partner reaching something unexpected....

Dear d

So what, if you have to back off, it is not the end of the world, both you and the route will still be there.

Try and think more positive, you will get more enjoyment that way.

Norrie

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