UKC

Just seen the reports (in French) of two climbers getting killed in seperate accidents at Freissinières over the past few days - http://www.ice-fall.com/knews.php and http://www.kairn.com//news.html?ident=39006.

Seems the area near "Tahiti douche", which often has massive stalactites overhanging it, had been seriously dangerous, and the guides had tried to stop people going there - how do you do that? Signs, roped off - not sure how easy it is?

Apparently a Greek and Italian died in seperate accidents - my sympathies.

I've climbed in that sector many times and watched a German guy take a belay right below a house sized stalactite once.

We are off there next week - sobering thoughts.

Some good safety advice here (but in french) http://www.kairn.com/article.html?id=633

Someone here was out there for the Ice Fest weren't they?

Any news?

In reply to Dean:
Hi Dean
We live here year round in the Ecrins and I help Gerard, the organiser, with the festival. He was absolutely gutted, as we all were, about the sensless deaths. It was very warm on both days there were fatalities and Tahiti Douche is renowned for it. The french guides, as did many of the local climbers present, tried their best to warn people off it, and there was red and black security tape across part of the area. It even mentions this area in the local guidebook.
When you come out drop me a line at jerry@alpbase.com and I'll tell you what's in and where's best to climb. Right now it's -18C and most of the classics are well formed.
Cheers
Jerry Gore
AlpBase.com

In reply to Dean: I was there! the festival was a very enjoyable event and there seemed to be quite a few brits around. The weather was good every day but was warming towards the end of the week. I do not know much about the accidents or if the climbers were there as part of the festival. As Jerry said the guides put up tape to close the most dangerous areas and made safety announcements every evening. Admitedly this is mostly in French, and a clear map of the closed areas would be a good improvement as the event attracts many people with little experience into a dangerous mountain environment.

I hope the accidents do not put future events in jeopardy. It is a well organised event which the whole village seems to support.

In reply to Jerry Gore:

Hi Jerry - thanks for the info. I'm sure everyone was gutted, esp. as you say, the area around Tahiti Douche is well known for it and efforts were made to keep people away.

When I've been there before, I've always kept a wary eye on what was above - it's a good lesson to all of us - keep your eyes on what could possibly fall on you, and just 'cos it's frozen and solid now doesn't mean it's going to stay that way.

I'm arriving next Tuesday. If you don't mind I'll mail you on Monday to catch the latest conditions. I'm really hoping it doesn't snow between now and then - I understand the road up to the end of the Fournel valley is still open and I really want do some of the climbs up there.

Cheers,

Dean.

In reply to Dean:

Hi Dean,

I will be in touch later on about a reccie I would like to do in Gavarnie. I am in Cham at the mo. Have a good time in Freyssinet.

In reply to francoisecall:

Hi Francoise - good to hear you are in Chamonix! No problem re: Gavarnie - I have been trying to finish an article about it. I'd be happy to help.
I am so, so sure I'm going to have a good time in Fressy - Les Viollins is going to be a fair challenge I hope!