UKC

One for the gurus here:

Firstly, Forest Rock, which aside from being filthily green looks very nice with the neatly mown lawn and no fences or bullshit. Has anyone done the E2 5b, Definitely Not, that traverses rightwards above the cave?? Does it still go at that grade, is it worth brushing the green shite off??

Secondly, Beacon Hill, still a funky place. Is it just my imagination or is Moonshot Direct easier than Moonshot itself?? The footholds are more positive and that so-called "poor flake" is a great sidepull. Still a nice micro-route either way. And that E1 5c on the right-hand side wall, that was f*cking desperate, couldn't get near it, ho hum.

In reply to Fiend: The grades at beacon are shot - they're all over the place - especially on the popular routes, where the rock is well polished.

Forest rock hasn't seen a lot of climbing latley due to the "ban". I used to climb there s few years back and the routes well still true to the original grade, but I have heard that latley some of the thinner holds have been chipped off due to groups abseiling there... Reckon it'd still be worth the effort though...

In reply to Nick Ward:

I was told that the ban at Forest rock would be lifted shortly (see a previous thread on here somewhere). I've not been past to see, but if it hasn't it should have been. I did 'Definitely Not' a few years ago and it's a nice route with some nice moves on it. Not much gear so make sure you've got the right sized friend for the slot. The crux for me, from memory, was the moves around the gear before running it out to the top.

Gavin

In reply to Fiend: Forest Rock has some of the best bouldering around, some desperates waiting to be done, with a few already in the bag.