UKC

Ice screw advice

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 thomaspassmore 15 Jan 2007
Hey
I am going climbing in the cordillera real in the summer, and am need of some ice screws.
I saw these at needle sports
http://www.needlesports.com/acatalog/Mail_Order_Ice_Screws_35.html
(the top ones - 2 for 25 quid)
Are they any good. I notice they dont have a twisty top to screw them in.
Would i regret cheaping on these when I get to the mountani?
thanks a lot
tom
 Mowglee 15 Jan 2007
In reply to thomaspassmore: Probably OK in the mountains for glaciers, but I'd go for something better if you ever plan to do any ice climbing. Eg http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=221228
 teddy_simmon 15 Jan 2007
In reply to thomaspassmore: i think they are 25 quid each rather than two for 25 correct me if im wrong (if i am ill be buying seome lol
In reply to teddy_simmon:

Those mountain tech screws are absolutely tat!

I bought one at the same time as a Petzl laser sonic, the MT one is very hard to start in water ice and pumpy to place...

And come with a little seperate handle that doesnæt help at all...

In my opinion..
In reply to thomaspassmore:

I recently bought some ice screws for my first experiance of climbing on ice. I thought of buying the same ones but having spoken to a few mates with experiance they advised against them.
On recomendation I got some DMM revs (£33 from rock and run. It was a good decision they start very very easily, are not hard to screw, and rack well. I tried other makes belonging to my mates last week in la Grave and think the DMM revs are best. Lazer sonics go in faster thanks to the handle but are harder to start and a bugger to rack. The general concensous between us was of the five of six brands we had the DMM's were best.

Hope that helps
 rusty_nails 16 Jan 2007
In reply to thomaspassmore:

What about the austriaalpin ice screws on rock and run?

anyone any advice on them?
In reply to thomaspassmore:
thanks a lot for the advice
that helps
 dermo 16 Jan 2007
In reply to thomaspassmore:
I've always used black diamond express and can't fault them. That said I haven't really tried any others over a long period of time
 nmwr 19 Jan 2007
I agree, DMM's don't have a winder, but they bite the best by a mile, and thats the bit that counts because your the most off balance when pushing the screw into the ice
 Tom Last 19 Jan 2007
In reply to thomaspassmore:

I've got a couple of them.

They're ok on easy ice, I've only climbed up to III.

Agree though with what someone else said that they're a bit pumpy and that they're only really good for glacier travel.

Maybe spend the extra pennies.

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