UKC

For the use of abseiling, should I always use screwgate krabs or not? I guess you have peace of mind from a screw gate. Whats your verdict on Krabs for abseiling. Cheers

troll

In reply to Adrian George:

Where?

Screwgate (pref HMS) on your belay loop to attach belay device as a chunky crab will stay cooler on a long ab.

To attach rope to anchors use the simplest system possible which is often just the rope itself (use alpine butterfly to attach to more than one anchor) but minimum of a screwgate or double opposed snap/wire gates for any non-redundant link.

Other advice - go buy some edelrid golden gate screwgates as they're hardly any heavier than most snap/wire gates so you don't have to make the decision.

In reply to Adrian George:

Crabs for abseiling are bad news! It's hard to control your descent when your bollocks are itching like mad!

In reply to quadmyre:
what knot do you suggest for attaching the rope to the first anchore, as would be using two stakes. Also is it best to use a proper waist harness or will a 240cm sling do (have used the later recently)? I do need to get on a course but a bit strapped for cash but not planning on abseiling beforehand, just trying to build up some equipment slowly.
Cheers

In reply to Chris Tan Ver. XLIX SP2:
They are a nightmare.

In reply to Chris Tan Ver. XLIX SP2:

pmsl!

(which is also bad for abseiling!)

In reply to Adrian George:
first anchore, as would be using two stakes.

are you absailing to retreat off a climb? or for the fun(?!) of it?

Also is it best to use a proper waist harness or will a 240cm sling do (have used the later recently)?

Harness

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
Cheers
Its just abseiling to get to cliff nesting bird species during the summer. I am not sure that the set up used previously is best. Any comments of equipment would be gratefully received. Just bought a 50m static rope. There seems to be many different set ups.

In reply to Adrian George:

now you're being too blatant and have spoiled the troll.

In reply to Adrian George:

Yes I'd stick with the sling if I were you - will allow you more freedom of movement when you need to lean a long way to get those eggs out.

As for knots at the top I find if you just wrap the rope a few times around each stake that'll probably be fine without needing knots at all.

In reply to Adrian George: 240cm sling, that way you can get a winter job as a haream gaurd and goats everywhere will sleep sounder and cross bridges with more confidence.

In reply to Adrian George:

If this is ligit then the set ups used by climbers (even SPA's and even for access) are not really apropreate for this kind of work. The body/project/group you are working for/with ought to be providing either training or oversight appropreate to the application. The Exact set up will depend on the exact aplication and these people will (ought to) have thought about it.

If you are doing this on your own without oversight/training in ALL aspects of the work then following quadmyere's advice seems best for all concerned.

In reply to davidwright:
I am a qualified bird ringer under licence from the British Trust for Ornithology for English Nature. I am a volunteer and they dont offer training. I was hoping to get some training at Portland but am about to move to Perth (Scotland) for the summer.

In reply to Adrian George:

well, there's certainly nothing here http://www.bto.org/notices/trgworkshops_2007.htm about training to abseil of cliffs.

I'd talk to them though. Someone who supervises and 'employs' volunteers, although not bound by law, should generally treat health and safety and 'work' issues as seriously as if they were paid employees. (I know this as I run a voluntary organisation and supervise lots of volunteers). They therefore need to make sure that you have all the training and resources you need to carry out your voluntary duties safely and effectively.

Have you also thought about how you're going to get back up the rope after abseiling down and ringing birds? How are you going to reach capture and ring the birds while keeping secure?

All the best

Nikki.

In reply to Adrian George: i'd preffer to use some of my snapgates, i have som e mountain technologu quickdraws and the snaps on them are stronger than most of my screwgates, and lighter if you used two together in opposing directions it would be safe although i cant really see how the screw on a screwgate helps safety, yeh it locks the gate but most stay shut via the spring anyway.

In reply to nikinko:
I will contact them on your first point. As for the second, its something that I am hoping to include on a training weekend with an instructor. I have not had to deal with a shear rock face yet. I was able to scramble up the rock face as it was not verticle and had a safety rope with tension( was with someone qualified at the time). I am certainly not going abseiling (without anyone else qualified)without prior training though.

In reply to Gaz lord:

I thought it was becuase it means the gate can't be opened by rope movement as can conceivably happen with snap gates. That's why if you're using snapgates you set them in oposing directions.

Someone correct me if I'm wrong please. (although you don't all need to jump on me ;0) )

N

In reply to nikinko: The screw doesn't keep it shut, it stops it opening (think about it, it is different). Use a screwgate (or opposed krabs) when the consequences of it opening could be catastrophic.