UKC

I wanted to get some new shoes for ages but decided to hold off buying any so i could get the new 5.10 Anazasi Verdes, all that has been in vain though since after trying them on they dont fit my foot shape! I tried 8 + 8.5 and they seriously hurt the joint on my big toe, tried the 9s and they didnt hurt but gave loads of dead space.

Anyway, now that my dream shoe has failed me im looking for some ideas on which other types to try. Currently got scarpa vantage and there ok but not great for smearing or edging. Would be looking for a general all-round shoe however i do prefer small edges and cracks for climbing. Throw me some names so i can go and try a few of them on for size.

In reply to Dave Park: I REALLY like my Boreal Jokers - so comfy you can wear them all day and great all round shoe.

In reply to Dave Park: Sportiva Katanas are really comfy

In reply to Dave Park:
I personally would definitely recommend two rock shoes.

In reply to karl walton: Unless they are for a one-legged climber?

In reply to Dave Park: I've recently bought a pair of Evolv Bandits and I love em.

In reply to foggieclimber:
Well, yes naturally.

In reply to Dave Park: I bought some of the new 5:10's, really painful to start with but after 3 months of regular use I can now wear them for a good couple of hours without screaming. If they are really not the shoe for you then try the lace up version.

In reply to Dave Park:

If you local wall has a shop, then you can try before you buy.

I tried 2 shoes at the Manchester Climbing Centre, both on routes and bouldering. Quite like one, but have put that on hold whilst they order me another shoe in my size so I can try that one.

That's the sort of service you need to get the right boot for you.

I also have the Anazasi's which i use for bouldering and when i first bought them, they were tight. They still are now, nearly 2 years on, but they have given somewhat.
My toes are curled over and the knuckles come out flattened and hurting a little after a session bouldering.
But they are better for bouldering for it.
The new boots will be more of a flat foot for routes.

In reply to Gnarleygritboy: It was the lace-ups i used and i doubt the problem would go away with time, there is no chance of the shoe stretching in the required area or building up a resistance to it etc. Its right on the end joint of my big toe and pushes against the side of the shoe, too painfull to even stand up in them (other than the 9s).

Saying that though i never did try the velcros so think i will give them a shot to see if they fit, along with the other shoes mentioned here if they have them in.

On a side note, are slippers any good to climb in? Tried some on and felt rather comfortable but dont know how pratical they are.

In reply to Dave Park: It depends what you're into. I mainly boulder on grit and velcros are great for that. I have done a few limestone sport routes in them as well and found no problems. The new rubber on the 5:10 velcros is brilliant. I've never worn the lace-ups but a mate of mine does loads of trad and he swears by them.


I agree with one of your other posts if you can try them on a wall session before you buy it really makes a difference.

Happy shopping

In reply to Gnarleygritboy: My local store doesnt offer that service, you can try them on and walk round for a few days. If there is any sign of usage on the shoe they wont give a refund.