UKC

reverso as an ascender

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 nikinko 16 Jul 2007
Does anyone else successfully use their reverso as an ascender?

If not, is there a single device out their that can be used as a belay plate (with autolock mode, and an ascender?

cheers

Nikki
 Luke01 16 Jul 2007
In reply to nikinko: I've used mine a couple of times. Best one was where I accidentally abseiled past the next anchor and over a big overhang, quick rearrange and you can ascend the ropes, brilliant!
 Ian McNeill 16 Jul 2007
In reply to nikinko:

it is possible to do this as you describe,
also backing up with a prussik just above the reverso will be my advice, which would also facilitate quick removal from the reverso to change to descent mode if required.
OP nikinko 16 Jul 2007
In reply to Ian McNeill:

could that be the same prussik as the one I've got my footloop on?
 Ian McNeill 16 Jul 2007
In reply to nikinko:

you would take the dead rope / slack rope back up to a prussik and krab or two krabs to increase radius or a DMM revolver or pully ( your choice) to make a Z and then pull down


a grigri will work in the same way my choice for teaching leading as I can quickly change from ascent to descent, ask an experienced MI to show you

see technical notes http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=203
In reply to nikinko: How do you do that then? I've got a reverso and it would be really useful to have it as an emergency ascender.

Thanks
 Ian McNeill 16 Jul 2007
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
a simple self-locking Z-rig can be made with the GRIGRI functioning as the first pulley in the system.

look at the diagram instructions provided and suspend from the reverso small loop as with magic plate locking off mode) and make the Z rig as describe above.

Not as good as the Gri Gri for the reason I have already mentioned BUT it will allow ascent. No easy descent.
 Merlin 16 Jul 2007
In reply to nikinko: its funny you asked,as I went to the local quarry the other day to giv it a bash.

absolutely terrible,

easier to use two prussiks.
In reply to Ian McNeill: Yes, I normally use a GriGri for photographing on an ab rope, but it would be nice to have the option to use a Reverso (my usual trad belay device) occasionally.
 Ian McNeill 16 Jul 2007
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
the z set up is here
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Haul.htm

simply replace the belay device shown for either gri gri or reverso locked off.
 Chris the Tall 16 Jul 2007
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
Adrian's article here
http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=511

Although as I demonstrated it's not a fast method, but will get you out in an emergency. Save's carrying an extra device, as you only need what you normally carry on an ab. However I'd suggest you take a better device if knew you definately need to climb the rope - i.e. taking photos

Maybe we need a pratice session ?
 saillord 16 Jul 2007
In reply to Nick Smith - UKC:
I have used my reverso to asend and it took twice as long as just using prusuks. to use the reverso as an asender you rig it in autolocking mode as you would for raising a second.
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