UKC

Am looking at servicing some of my gear as it is pretty redundant at the moment whilst I am on the sick. Want to know what is best for Lubricating Krabs (screwgates and snaplinks) and friends. I am looking at using low grade oil or WD40. Want to consider the effects of these or other materials etc against ropes, slings runners and harnesses.

What do others use out there, or don't people bother with it. Grateful for any advice and any opinions.

In reply to Paulh: Apparently WD40 shouldn't cause a problem with slings, as some people soak their slings in it to reduce the risk of them freezing solid when winter climbing.

I've heard rumours that WD40 is more likely to attract grit etc into the lubricated area because of the residue left behind. Never experienced it myself.

In reply to CENSORED: If the grit attraction is a problem, how about using a tent zip lube like the one Terra Nova make? Apparently it won't attract grit. But then again it may be pants at lubricating. Ho Hum

In reply to Paulh:

I've always used WD40 - although I try and avoid getting it on the slings. Krabs and Cams on a sheet of newspaper, spray the spring mechanism then wipe off surplus. Seems to work fine and doesn't attract dirt if you wipe well.

In reply to GrahamD:
finish line dry bike lube is suggested on some of my equipment instructions. However there are specialist climbing brands you can buy for the job now...

In reply to Paulh:

The dedicated lubricant for cams is outrageously expensive, I work for a lubricants company and I think it is silicon oil or something similar. The best thing for cams and krabs is probably to clean them with something to get the grit and aluminium dust out (I use brake cleaner- but avoid getting it into contact with tape) then lube them with silicon spray (often sold in car spares shops as dashboard renovator) this is a poor lubricant though and wont prevent corrosion so I use WD40 periodically, esp. after sea cliffs. As is the case with virtually all lubrication, its often not WHAT you use but how often.

In reply to Bob Dulieu: How about that powdered graphite stuff that you can get for door locks? Comes in a dispenser with a narrow nozzle and you squeeze the sides to puff it into the keyhole. Any thoughts on this? Could be less messy than oil?

In reply to Paulh:

Powdered graphite makes a great solid dry lubricant - rub pencil lead on your fingers and they feel really slick- and as such have loads of advantages as they dont attract dirt and are fine enough to work into tiny gaps. Their purpose (usually carried in grease) is to act as a residual lube when pressure and/or temperature have displaced the carrier grease. Either graphite or molybdenum disulphide are commonly used and Copaslip uses lammellar copper for the same thing.
Re climbing gear, I cant see how this would be useful, To get the stuff in it would need to be carried either in a liquid or grease, grease would not penetrate and would be really messy and the liquid would be really really messy. It would not serve any purpose as a corrosion preventative and lubrication would be minimal in climbing gear. If the powder for locks is air blown by aerosol or similar again it would not penetrate and you'd simply waste it as a lock is a confined space and the powder would settle within it.

The tent zip lube mentioned above is silicon spray, nothing more exotic than that, and yes it is a crap lubricant. It does have the advantage of being non toxic, inert and non staining to fabric though.

Hope this is of use.

In reply to Paulh:

WD40 or GT85 are all I've ever used.

except when I was younger, and used cooking oil on most things.

Said items have been cleaned and relubed since though.

In reply to Paulh:

It is worth tuning your krabs from time to time.

This helps make sure that the gate runs smoothly.

it is performed on krabs before they go out on sale by putting them in a nylon lined vice and with a pair of nylon lined pliers, the krab is twisted ever so slightly until it is straight and moves freely. Some tuning can be done by hand with the gate, but if your krab has a banana in it give up and buy a new one.

In reply to Paulh: I've just noticed that on their cams, Wild Country recommend the use of a paraffin based lubricant, I would imagine that the same would apply to 'biners.

In reply to Everyone:]

Thanks for the replies and interest.

In reply to Paulh:

Have found this link to answer my own question though thought others may want to know.

http://www.rei.com/rei/learn/detail.jsp?URL=rei/learn/climb/caraf.jsp&l...

In reply to Martin Brierley:
>Some tuning can be done by hand with the gate, but if >your krab has a banana in it give up and buy a new one.

...unless it's meant to be a bent gate of course

In reply to Paulh:
WD40 isn't a lubricate - its an anti-seize. GT85 is a dry lube & will also free stiff krabs/cams nicely. If your keen about sevicing stuff use this.

My favourite is Tri-Flow MTB lube - awesomely effective. Expensive but you need very little & it lasts.

Most climbing ropes/slings are polypropelene which I think isn't affected by chemicals... Probably wise not to soak your kit in it though.

In reply to Sam:
"Most climbing ropes/slings are polypropelene which I think isn't affected by chemicals"

that's a bit of a niave statement really isn't it....

Ok let's get some sulpheric acid and chuck some on your gear and see what happens shall we ?

In reply to Sam: Your rope info from the manufacture specifically tells you to avoid contact with oils and the like!!!

In reply to Paulh:

To clean, Detach krabs from tapes etc. place in boiling water for 5 min, take out, allow to cool/dry.

Lube with GT85, although recently I have found that non-fling chain loobe is really good.

LD
PS Applying assorted chemicals to nylon & dynemaa wont have any affect, mmm, me thinks I wont be climbing with you.

In reply to Lurking Dave:

LD.

I wont be contaminating my ropes slings etc. Just wanted to sort out the hardware so you would be safe.

In reply to Paulh:
don't ask me - i thought talc would be a good replacement for climbing chalk as i had loads of it. it was like having billions of little ball bearings on your hands.
heh.... maybe talc poured over a viscous substance will sort you out, and make your krabs smell good too.

In reply to Paulh:

WD40 and the like get dirt sticking to them like shit to the proverbial blanket.
Metolius make their own wax based Cam Lube, but you can also get your hands on a silicate based spray from a company called Porter Forster, from builders merchants etc.
clean the kit, spray some lube in a cup and dab it on with cotton buds....There! no squeaking any more huh?

PS Ropes and slings are Nylon or Perlon please please please dont get any solvents near them!

In reply to Paulh:
There's a bike lube called X-lube which comes in a pump-action spray, is PTFE loaded, water-repelling and dries to a dirt-repelling film. Works great on the bike, (and dirt really doesn't stick to it - not half as much as it does to WD40 anyway) and looks as though it should be the DBs for krabs, although I have to admit I haven't tried it yet (!) Its relatively cheap too.

In reply to Andy:

Thanks for that one Andy, shall try it out.

In reply to Paulh: X lube works fine on friends as well, and is a lot cheaper than the tiny cam lube stuff.

In reply to Woker:

Er, no but seeing as bike lubes are non-toxic for the most part then I can't see them harming inert polymers that much. Sulphuric acid doesn't affect polypropelene (its what acid containers are made of). Back to GCSE chemistry for you!