UKC

Peru - Cordillera Blanca

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 Alex Roddie 31 Oct 2007
I'm weighing up the feasibility of a trip to Peru in a few years' time. I know it's early to be thinking about details, but I'm trying to figure out if it's even remotely financially feasible, so that I can forget about it and concentrate on something else if it's likely to be too expensive!

Basically my idea would be to fly to Lima. From what I've seen doing quick Google searches and whatnot, it doesn't seem to be possible to fly directly to Lima from the UK ... you have to change at Madrid, which is a pain (an expensive pain). I'm just wondering if anyone has first-hand knowledge of whether or not this is the case ... and if it's possible to get tickets for under about £500?

Cheers!
 Jem 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
In 2004 this was certainly not the case. We flew to Lima with KLM via Amsterdam with a short break (couple of hours) in Bonaire (dutch antilles), which was very welcome to stretch the legs. When in Peru, we heard no end of stories about Iberia and the hassle people had with them. I suggest you speak to Journey Latin America who helped fix our flights into Lima and out of Quito (Ecuador) for about £560 I think. They were extremely helpful and should be able to meet your needs. see www.journeylatinamerica.co.uk
or tel 020 8747 3108
 Lancs Lad 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

We did this this summer, we flex KLM via Amsterdam, cost 700 pounds return, couldnt find chaper,

However the expense kinda ended there, the bus from Lima up to Huaraz was cheap, about 10 US for the backpacker. Theres a whole range of prices for B+B and hostels, from very basic cheap to nice good ones for 10-15 pounds a night.

If you shop right, food is cheap, even if you eat out, avoiding the tourist traps, theres great local places for a few pound 2/3 course meals.

So my point,whilst the flights are a lot, once your there is very cheap.

If you do make it to Huaraz, the breakfast Burrito in Cafe Andino is awesome! yummy
OP Alex Roddie 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
Thanks guys, that's very useful to know!

I'm particularly interested to hear that the travel expenses constitute the vast bulk of the cost. By my reckoning it will probably turn out to be about the same cost as an average trip to the Alps then, when things like ski-lifts, expensive Swiss food, trains, and other faff is accounted for!

I think I will add this down as a definite goal for a few years down the line when I have a couple more seasons of Alpine experience. There look to be some beautiful mountains around there ... Alpamayo looks fantastic, although I've heard the 'easy' (AD+) route is currently closed.
 Lancs Lad 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

There are so many mountains and routes to have a look at, we also spent time in the Jungle of Peru, worth a week or more if you get time, One of the must see places I think
 JamesA 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
I haven't found it any more expensive than the Alps overall. Bonaire is a strange and scary airport. I've been with Continental via Houston as well, which has worked out cheap.
 Lancs Lad 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

just remembered, you can now fly from Lima to Huaraz, its not that much and far far quicker than the bus
OP Alex Roddie 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Lancs Lad:
That's useful to know--cheers!

I quite fancy the idea of spending a month in the Alpamayo region and attempting three or four mountains more or less in alpine style (I'll probably be going with my brother if he can get the time off uni).

Another thing ... what's the best time of year to climb the mountains in the area?
 Lancs Lad 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

Not 100% sure, we were there for the most of June and lots of them looks good, plenty of people out doing stuff

We met a few people doing just as you say, gettin into the high valleys and taking a few of the hills about, saves a lot of travel time

Im very eager to be back there
Iain D 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

You can fly with Continental via New York from Glasgow (maybe other UK airports too?). Bit far from Norwich, but just thought id mention it. I was out in Peru this year, and wished i was there much longer to get more done. There are lots of options for gear hire in Huaraz if you want to save luggage weight, just be careful to check the quality.

I've got the 2 main maps for the Cordillera Blanca for sale if you are interested. Usually go new for £10 each. Yours for £12 for both including postage. Used very little. I'll chuck in a used, but recent (2007) Lonely Planet Peru guide for a total of £17.

Iain
Removed User 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
> Another thing ... what's the best time of year to climb the mountains in the area?

Our summer (North Hemisphere) is the best time to go. July is normally the busiest period but that's because the weather is generally the most stable (less easy to predict nowadays...).

Peru is incredably cheap once you're there. Once in Huaraz, you can stay in places for £3-5 per night (twin room - basic) and have 3 course set menus for £1. Of course, sometimes you need two of these to fill yourself up, but it's still good value. Local rotisserie chicken restaurants are also very cheap.

Having said that, you can spend a lot of money in Huaraz if you stay in Western run/affiliated hostels, restaurants etc.

It's definitely worth the trip.
OP Alex Roddie 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Iain D:
You have mail!

Thanks everyone for the information, really useful and it's helping me build up a picture of how realistic such a trip is likely to be. It's making me quite excited about the prospect and if it's going to be about the same cost as an average trip to the Alps, there's really no excuse for me not to go! =)
 nz Cragrat 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

The longer you can go for the better - then you can ease into the acclimatisation rather than pushing it like a lot of people do.
My first 2 weeks were basically wandering up the Cordillera Negra and up from Huaraz and staying down in town, followed by a couple of trips up a couple of valleys just walking and camping. When my friends arrived and we went off and climbed Quitaraju, Alpamayo, Artesonraju and Chopikalki with no problems. Well I had no problems - they had some issues being less acclimated. Attempted Santa Cruz but got scared off by seracs.
 Gavin 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

Flew Manchester to Lima via New York in 2006 on Continental and for a 2.5 week trip with organised and guided activities for a party of Scouts it was about £1600 all in. I forget now, but flights must have been about a £6-700 of that cost?

Gavin
OP Alex Roddie 31 Oct 2007
In reply to nz Cragrat:
Thanks - I've been nosing around on Summitpost and Quitaraju and Artesonraju look great fun as well, I think I shall add them to my wish list.

I'm interested to see, though, that the South Face of Artesonraju is graded D+ even though it appears to be little more than 55-degree snow (Scottish II?), albeit extremely sustained. I was under the impression that D+ in the Alps would be more serious than that!
 JamesA 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
The routes are gernerally technically harder in the Alps for a given grade, but I would say they are more serious in Peru. The chances of being rescued are close to zero, the rescue helicopters there can't even get to many of the base camps. Also, apart from a few honeypots, its far less frequented - which makes route finding much harder, trail breaking harder etc etc. All that is reflected in the grades.
 ScottMackenzie 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

Hi Alex,

I went to Peru in June/July/August 2006 - here's my take on things. Compared to the Alps or Nepal.

Firstly, if you going to go try and go for as long as you can - it costs a lot to get there, so make the most of it.
The flight out is going to cost you quite a bit - around £700 if you book it early. The flight can go via the states, or Madrid usually. If you go via the states, you get 64 kilos luggage, if you go via Madrid you get 23 kilos.

If your off to the Andes, most people goto the Blanca in Peru. This means flying into Lima usually, Peru's capital. Lima is cheap as chips, just be careful not to get robbed or whatever. When you arrive, check into a hostel somewhere in the city, such as Miraflores (the touristy bit). In the morning, grab a cab down to one of the many bus companies stations for a ticket to Huaraz (good companies are Cruz del Sur, Expreso Ancash and Movil Tours etc). The bus is well cheap (around £7 to £10 for 8 hour trip) - and its quite interesting driving through Lima and down the coast. Lima is at sea level, during the 8 hour trip you'll go upto 4200m over a high pass, before dropping into Huaraz at 3200m. Make sure your hydrated!

You'll arrive into Huaraz and its a little intimidating at first until you get your eye in for how the streets are layed out, good places to go etc. I checked into Jo's Place hostel, take a taxi (3 soles - 30p) and they'll drop you off there. Its an amazing hostel and a great place to get your bearings. They have a balcony which looks over the mountains, and in the early part of the season you'll be able to sit and watch thunder storms over the mountains, whilst sitting in a hammock, drinking beer and shooting the shit with your friends. Its a really cool place, and good to meet climbers and travelers alike. There are other hostels too, each I'm sure offering something unique and cool. Take your pick.

Within the blanca there are loads of great mountains and routes to climb. Some are popular, some are not. Most take half a day to walk in to base camp, and then either a day or more to get to the top depending how you climb. There are other peaks which only take 3 or 4 hours from base camp to summit as well. There's easy peaks, hard peaks, ice, mixed whatever you want. Loads of places in town have info on conditions, routes etc and there are good guidebooks. Bear in mind the guidebooks go out of date quite fast due to glacial changes etc, which in 2006 we found on a few routes. The mountains feel a lot bigger than the Alps, but mostly not Himalayan in size!

As I said, some peaks are popular, some not so. My friend and I certainly made the first attempt on a couple of peaks in the 2006 season and any mountains off the popular areas see very little, if any action throughout the season. The great thing is, if you want to be remote and climbing hard you can, whilst if you want to be around other people on the easier popular routes you can also. Its certainly not packed though like, for example the 3 Monts route on Mont Blanc in summer!

Huaraz is cheap! The expensive things are: hiring a donkey and arriero to take you into the mountains - still its ony $10 to $15 - they have a set price of $5 for 1 donkey, and $10 for the arriero etc. Taxi into the mountains can cost around £10 to £20, but between a few people its not bad. Take the cheaper option on a collectivo bus if your watching the wallet - 3 hour trips are about 50p. Food is well cheap, if not all that exciting, but you won't go hungry with the usual chips, pizzas, chicken, veg available at most places. El Horno is a great and cheap place to eat in Huaraz, the owner is friendly.

Being in South America, travel is cheap - so if you do a few routes in the Blanca, and want to do anything in other Peruvian ranges getting there isn't going to break the bank. Same for getting to Bolivia if you want to climb in the Real range as well during your trip.

All in all its worth every penny on the flight. The weather is stable after the rainy season - from mid June last year onwards. Its worth going earlier though if you want to get your bearings, or do some trekking or something before the climbing conditions are in. We did quite a few routes last year since we stayed for a while. Compared to the Alps its certainly cheaper to live at the same standard for a long while - excluding the flight price. Remember, you have no peak fees (just national park entry fees which are cheap) and the mountains are a bit bigger than the alps and have none of the Himalayan peak fee/expedition arrangements.

I might sound like I'm suggesting its better than the Alps or Nepal, which I'm not. Its hard to describe them together, since each one is totally different and offer their own thing. For me, in Peru culture, travel and the whole experience of getting to the mountains, doing our route and heading back out the mountains really made the trip for me. Its a must for a season if you've got the time & money to get there.

I recommend getting this book, even though some routes are now slightly out of date due to glacial changes, its still a brilliant guide. Great advice in the book of the area, people, traditions, travel etc and the routes vary from F, to ED2.

http://www.amazon.com/Classic-Climbs-Cordillera-Blanca-Peru/dp/1890437905

Good luck!

Cheers, scott



 ScottMackenzie 31 Oct 2007
In reply to JamesA:

Hi James,

>> rescue helicopters there can't even get to many of the base camps.

That often depends who's paying your insurance!
 nz Cragrat 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
> (In reply to nz Cragrat)
>
>
> I'm interested to see, though, that the South Face of Artesonraju is graded D+ even though it appears to be little more than 55-degree snow (Scottish II?), albeit extremely sustained. I was under the impression that D+ in the Alps would be more serious than that!

We did not rope up on this and descended the Sth Face. A skier had died on it earlier and after we did it some Brits died slipping on the descent (this was a long time ago).
 ScottMackenzie 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

>> I'm interested to see, though, that the South Face of Artesonraju is graded D+ even though it appears to be little more than 55-degree snow (Scottish II?), albeit extremely sustained. I was under the impression that D+ in the Alps would be more serious than that!

It can steepen up, especially at the top. The mountain is about 6000m and although its only 55 degrees up (mostly) - thats 55 degrees down as well - for 500m on snow anchors. The routes change a lot each year, so one year its more chilled or serious than the next. This route on Artesonraju killed three american climbers last season.
OP Alex Roddie 31 Oct 2007
In reply to Scott_M@c:
Wow, thank you so much for that wealth of information!

I think I'm going to take planning for this trip quite seriously ... this thread has changed it from a pie-in-the-sky idea to something I really want to do. Give us a couple more seasons of Scottish winter and Alpine summer and we should be ready. =)

It's interesting to hear that the routes are often technically easier than their counterparts in the Alps, but more serious and committing instead. I can well imagine 10 to 15 pitches on steep snow with hardly anything solid to belay or place runners on to be quite serious, and of course the altitude is going to be even more of a factor than it is in the Alps. I've discovered I don't acclimatise that well so this will be even more of a priority for me.

I'm thinking a month sounds like a good length of time. And I like the possibility of new, undiscovered routes ... that appeals to my adventurous side. =)

Thanks!
almost sane 01 Nov 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
Through the whole of South America, there are the standards, the hills that appear in the brochures of Jagged Globe, Mountain Madness, etc.
These hills are often a few miles from several unclimbed peaks.

For example, I was part of a first ascent team (we did a couple of faces, but didn't get any summits) in Bolivia, where there was lots of exploring to do, but we were only four hours drive from La Paz.

In Peru, you pass the foot of unclimbed peaks on the main tourist route from Cusco to Machu Picchu in the Sacred Valley.

So if you fancy exploring, there's loads to do. Of course, there are no guidebooks for unclimbed hills, and you won't know until you get there whether the route is within your technical abilities or not. But that's part of the fun, no?

I reckon £2000 for a month including flights would see you very comfortable, hiring top-class local guides, staying in nice hotels, etc.

If you lived more frugally, you could probably do a month for under £1500 including flights, hiring donkey and porter, maybe as low as £1250.
 Cusco 03 Nov 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

Hi Alex

My wife's Peruvian (hence me name) and we go back once a year.

There's four main ways of getting to Lima by plane.

1) KLM via Amsterdam. They now use a 777, which means a 12.5hr non-stop flight to Lima from Amsterdam. It cuts out the stop in Bonaire or Aruba but, unfortunately, the plane's less comfortable than the old MD-11.

2) Iberia via Madrid. The service on the flight out to Lima (which is during the daytime) is appalling. After lunch, the frightening stewardesses disappear and about 9 hours into the flight you might see someone with a tiny sandwich from the rear of the plane. Then all hell breaks loose as everyone piles to the back to grab a sarnie (or 4 if you know how to without being hit by one of the moustachioed hulks at the rear). Bloody Spanish - they nicked all the gold, ransacked the country and can't be bothered to put back something into the flight! Bah humbug.

3) There's now apparently a flight from London with Lan Chile (possibly via Madrid). Well worth looking at coz Lan Chile is quite a good airline. You'd be supporting the coast-grabbing Chileans though - 2,500 miles doesn't seem enough for them for some reason. Perhaps they'll take Bolivia's oil and gas on top of its only access to the sea. Pisco is from Peru. Bah humbug!

4) Get to New York or Miamia and change to a Lan Chile flight. Bad if you haven't already been DNA'd, terrorist checked, body searched etc by our masters.

PS - haven't been indoctrinated, honest! (Just having a laugh).

PPS - typical costs London to Lima on KLM/Iberia are circa £650. We go with whoever's got the cheapest price at the relevant time.

PPPS - the climbing guidebooks will no doubt say the best times to go. But if it's anything like Cusco and the trekking I have done in the Blanca/Huayhuash, then late May-September are good times ('winter' - although there's only 2 seasons in the mountains - the dry season (9 months) and the wet season). June/July are most popular times for trips to Peru generally, which is often reflected in the air prices.

Peru is fantastic - apart from Lima (Plymouth with smog), Puno (the wild west) and Desaguadero (a cess pit border town between Peru/Bolivia), which all suck, big time.
 punter 03 Nov 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
> I'm thinking a month sounds like a good length of time.

Try to give it longer if you can. Acclimatisation takes longer than you expect. I was out there 5 weeks, and still wished I'd had 3 weeks longer so I could get in some good climbing AND travel about a bit more.

I went by American Airlines for the far greater luggage allowance - see above.
madmountaineer 03 Nov 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie: Hi we went last year and the flights via US / Canada was about £890, going again in 2008 and flights are all around £950 to £1250! The cheap places do not include South America!

For info about things inside Peru Contact christopher benway <cafeandino@hotmail.com>

Paul Hudson
88 Ash road
Leeds
07962255621
OP Alex Roddie 04 Nov 2007
In reply to madmountaineer:
Thanks, that's good to know!

To cushion the financial blow I've decided to start investing in some of the gear I'll need right away, eg. double ropes (at the moment I use a single), new axes and so on. But it looks like the flight really will be the bulk of the cost.

Many thanks to everyone who has replied so far--I've got some really useful information.
BorisB 04 Nov 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie: Hi Alex, Do it, Ive been for a months climbing in the Blanca and utterly loved it. Flight to Lima £500 - £700 depending on carrier etc, I used KLM via Amsterdam and it was fine, then bus to Huaraz, there you can hire or buy anything you require, including screw top gaz cartridges. Costs are so so cheap and the people are very freindly. if you require more info please email me direct.
OP Alex Roddie 04 Nov 2007
In reply to BorisB:
Ah, I'd been wondering about the stove/fuel situation. I'd assumed you wouldn't be able to get screw-top gas cartridges there, but if you can, that makes things a lot more flexible. I think I'll be taking my Whisperlite International and Pocket Rocket along for maximum versatility ... after all I shouldn't think gas will work that well at high altitude (I know it was a bit dodgy in the Alps once or twice).
almost sane 04 Nov 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

> To cushion the financial blow I've decided to start investing in some of the gear I'll need right away, eg. double ropes (at the moment I use a single), new axes and so on.
>
As far as gear is concerned, stuff that is OK for Scottish winter will be OK for Peru. You won't need extra axes or anything.

The climbing is still climbing.

Differences might be - a bit colder in Peru, a lot drier, you need to be more self-sufficient for longer. I reckon clothing might be more of an issue than climbing gear. You may want plastic boots if you are doing some of the really high peaks, but then you might have them for Scottish and Alpine stuff already.

Single or twin ropes - down to the type of climbing you plan to do, regardless of where.

Something worth considering: if you use a local company for logistics (mules, jeep, etc), you may find it doesn't add a huge amount to the cost to hire a cook and a mess tent. Having a cook and a mess tent realy makes the whole trip so much more relaxed. You can also hire tents locally. All this can reduce the amount of gear you need to lug from home to Peru.

OP Alex Roddie 04 Nov 2007
In reply to almost sane:
The reason I'm getting new axes is because my current ones aren't really much good for anything over Grade III, and in any case I'm hoping to progress to Grade IV by the time I'm ready to go to Peru.

At the moment the only climbing boots I have are Mantas, and I'm pretty sure they won't be warm enough for the Andes! Plastics are something I'll be thinking about next year if I want to get onto some harder Scottish winter stuff (I have big feet so the Mantas are just a little bendy, might make really steep climbing a bit of a pain).

Similarly, I'm keen to get some twin ropes largely for my Scottish winter requirements ... and I'm sure they would be handy for the Andes too, enabling double length abseils.

It's good to know that the gear requirements are broadly similar to Scotland, though. I was starting to worry I'd have to get full down clothing or something like that!
 nz Cragrat 04 Nov 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:

We used MSR's - but then most kiwis do - we don't seem to find gas canister stoves useful... and then there IS the disposal issue.
almost sane 04 Nov 2007
In reply to Alex Roddie:
When I was in southern Peru this summer, the snow line was about 5,000m. It varied from place to place, of course.

We had a couple of nights where it was really cold, minus ten or less, but dry. During the day it was fine.
We never got above 4,500m, but at that altitude there was no need for gloves during the day.

On my Bolivian trip a few years ago we got to just over 5,000m, and it was windy and stormy and snowy, but even then I have been colder on a typical Scottish winter day.

I reckon that if you don't spend much time above 5,000m you won't need plastic boots. If you want to tackle the 6,000+m peaks, then I would say yes to plastics. In between....

There are many many unclimbed peaks below 5,500m which you could climb with typical Scottish winter gear, if you fancy exploring. One of the many plans simmering in the back of my head, waiting for the time and money, is to return to the Cordillera Real in Bolivia or Cordillera Urubamba in southern Peru, where I have unfinished business...

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...