UKC

I'm thinking about going to new zealand with girlfriend next August for about a month and was wondering if anyone could give any info about the climbing conditions at that sort of time of year? Also we'd like to do some other outdoorsy stuff, walks etc.. but most of the walks I've seen in guides don't recommend them in the winter, does anyone know of some relatively short walks (a day or two at most) we could do? We'll be renting our own transport there so travelling to destinations shouldn't be too much of a bother.

Me and girlfriend mainly boulder & sport climb (no trad!) so I guess the south island would be better with castle hill ? Any recommendations on the best areas for climbing quality to go and visit would be most appreciated. Cheers!

In reply to shaned:

Plenty of sport climbing on the south island. Depends on your grades too. "The Cave" has sport lines from 25 up to 30+ (7b-8b and on)

Hospital flats outside Wanaka had sport lines starting at 16 (in the 5's) Diamond wall has Awesome 18/19/20's

Paynes Ford has a load of quality sport lines

Just outside Dunedin there are plenty of micro-crags (you'll need a guide book)

Weather can be bizarre, i used to travel twice a year when i lived in oz, i've been there in the middle of winter and it's been warm. Been there in Oct and climbed in a T-shirt one day, the next there was 4" of snow and fully wrapped up!

Chris

In reply to shaned:

Most locals don't climb much in winter..but coming from the UK it wont be any problem

In the southern lakes district all the north facing crags at Wanaka and Wye creek are awesome on a sunny day. the southfacing crags will be damp.

There will be good skiing, and Ice climbing in August.

All the climbing over about 1200m will be in snow so No alpine rock in Queenstown, darrens, or Mt somers.
Babylon at milford faces north and is at low elevation so may be alright.
bouldering at castle hill and Jardines will be fine on the sunny sides and suprisingly we get a fair amount of sun in winter. It is possible you will get a little snow.

There is a guide book called south Island rock that is quite good for travelling.

In reply to shaned:
Hi Shaned,

I live at the bottom of the South Island. The winters here are good. We get quite a few stable highs which give sharp frosts and fantastic blue skies. Climbing at Castle Hill will be the best bet. There will be too much snow up high, unless you are training for the Himalayas. There can be a bit of seepage on the schist crags of Otago, but north facing crags that do not have too much run off will be fine. DoC (the department of conservation)will have shut down most of the Great Walks because of avalanche risks, but the Hollyford Track is open all year. A brilliant short walk is from the Main Divide to the top of Key Summit. It also worth having a look around the Homer Tunnel area. If you are really keen, look at the area around Borland or even the Takatimu Hills.

Mueller Hut is a also a great short trip with stunning views of the avalances pouring of Mount Sefton.

Cheers.

John

In reply to shaned:

I can't rock climb here (Wanaka) in mid-winter here - but then, I'm soft!

There are a few crags that are supposedly OK in the late morning/early afternoon - Sunnyside, bakehouse, conservatory etc. Forget the diamond crags - unless it's super warm - it's a freezer up there in the winter - in fact we were ice climbing (OK mixed climbing) on those crags last July.

In general, things get a bit more serious here (southern Alps) in the winter with regards to walks.....Meg hut is a lovely little hut accessible from the Cardrona valley via a short two hour walk - with a good fire place. Brewster hut is a great spot too - again just a few hours - but with either of these, most winters it would be sensible to carry axe/crampons with you.

While I'm not an expert on the top of the South - Paynes Ford and the walks around that area - I'm guessing unless you want a proper winter adventure that area would suit you better - or hang around longer and come down here in late September

Thanks very much for the feedback. A slight change of plans.. we've booked tickets to go out start of may, stay for two months and visit both north and south! So any recommendations on the best quality areas for climbing in the north would be appreciated too.

Cheers,

Shane

Hey, mate,

Starts getting a bit chilly in May but that can be good. Here's some N Island favs -

Whanganui Bay (crag)
http://www.climb.co.nz/Places/Taupo/WhanganuiBay/Whanganui-Bay-Rock-Climbin...

Wharepapa (crag)
http://www.rockclimb.co.nz/Crags.cfm

Bouldering at Baring Head just outside Wellington

Ruapehu and Taranaki - the North Islands volcanoes. Lots of quiet ice routes if that's your thing.

Tongariro Crossing - all the backpackers go there for a reason. By nice and quiet in May / June but you might need an axe.

Tramping in the Tararuas

Wellington - The Matterhorn, Fidels, Roti.

I might be back in Wellington by then (I hope) gimme a yell if you like.

Take six months and you'll never want to leave

Fraser

In reply to shaned:

Most of the cragging in NZ is bolted - N Island & S Island.

In the North Island - Wharepapa and Whanganui Bay are good (as already mentioned). Also nice climbing on the northern shore of Lake Taupo at Kawakawa Bay / Kinloch - another good website is http://www.freeclimb.co.nz

In the South Island - I would really recommend Wanaka rock, but have yet to climb there at that time of year. Castle Hill is also awesome.

Re one or two day walks - huge potential all over N & S Islands. DOC (Dept of Conservation) put out leaflets in most areas. You might want to look into Abel Tasman, Marlborough Sounds, Nelson Lakes to give you a few ideas.