UKC

Ok, so me and some friends are taking the brave step out of the climbing walls onto the proper stuff

Portland looks the best place for us being sport routes which we're used to and minimises on gear costs - a dozen or so quickdraws, 60m rope & helmets - check, check and check

I've got the crag guide book, and am just waiting for the sun to try a bit harder (or the rain to try less hard) and we'll head on down - but I just have a quick question.

I'm fine leading sport routes, and clipping runners, but the only other outdoor climbs I've done were seconded (and in Slovenija) - what's the arrangement for the anchor points / final clips at the top of the route?
Thought I'd best ask as opposed to waiting till i'm at the top of the route to find out

Are there just two bolts so you use 2 QDs, or just use 2 'biners in the top bolt, or is something else required?
When we were seconding abroad, the leader clipped himself directly on to specific anchor point, pulled a bight through the ring, tied the bight in a fig-8 clipped that to the belay loop, then undid the original tie-in, took the slack in and lowered off.... Is that standard? (Just so I can practise that at the wall)

Any other advice much appreciated. I can't imagine any of us will be climbing much above a 5+ on our first proper climbing trip, so was thinking of heading to South Blacknor and the triple slabs, maybe the cuttings as well- sound sensible?

Oh - and when the guide says "gets busy", does this mean you won't be alone, or you'll be queueing for 30 mins for a good route?

In reply to Durbs: I wouldn't recommend the cuttings, merely because the easy routes are pretty poor, so your choice of the triple slabs is a much better bet. On some routes you can thread a bight of rope (as you described doing on the continent), but a significant number of routes have closely placed bolts, therefore you will probably have to untie completely. Obviously this is risky if you are not used to doing it!There is an excellent piece on how to do this safely in the articles section on this site. An added bonus of going to the triple slabs is that most climbs have an extra bolt over the top of the climb. This means that you can pre-place a sling over the edge to clip into when you come to thread the belay, thus you can untie and re-thread in relative safety. Have fun, and don't worry about it being busy and getting in the way- everyone has to start somewhere,
Rob

In reply to Rob Kennard:
Cool - so are Portland routes generally the "two staples and a chain" variety?

In reply to Durbs:

Normally just two staples. You thread directly through the staples to lower.

I agree with the above sentiment - whilst the cuttings has some decent routes on it, there aren't many in the easy grades, and the entirity of that easy left hand end is politely described, in the nicely possible way, as overpolished unpleasant toss. Theres a 4/4+ called Opus, I think, near the right hand end - takes a groove line and feels a bit like a trad VS - nice bridging up this corner then a haul through a roof at the top.

But in general for easy mileage those Blacknor beach boulders are nice, and theres some stuff near Do Ixtan which I haven't done but which from memory has a cluster of easier things next to each other, can't say anything about them mind you.

AJM

Thanks for your help

So it's worth packing a sling and a screwgate to tie into whilst threading the belay?

We all climb about the same level, and none of us are that fussed about leaving rather than seconding, so i imagine we'll just lead to set up a top-rope...

As you both seem to be know the area quite well, when does it start getting warm enough to climb down there?

In reply to Durbs: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=265

Do us all a favour - if you are top roping and someone wants your route please don't hog it.

Are all Portland climbers this friendly and welcoming to newcomers...?

In reply to Durbs: Yes

In reply to Durbs: E mail me through UKC. I'll probably be able to give you a guided tour of where to go (I live here). It's more often than not climbable this time of year again contact me to check.

John.

In reply to Durbs:

Climbable all year round. Pick whichever side is sheltered from the wind most. There were lads climbing topless at the Cuttings last time I was there at the end of November, and I was in a tshirt all day - if the sun is out then a tshirt at this time of year is perfectly possible.

As for toproping - yes, usually it is polite/customary/whatever if someone wants to lead the route to move the toprope out of the way briefly, but the more important thing to remember is that if you are going to do it, don't do it straight off the staples!. Toprope off a few quickdraws, or equalise a screwgate with a sling or somehting, but the staples get worn if lots of people toprope directly off tem and they need replacing faster.

AJM

Cool, thanks for the heads up.
I could be wrong - people might all want to lead/second the routes, but as we're at slightly different levels, some might be top-roped.
Obviously if people are wanting to use a route we're more than happy to let them

In reply to Durbs:

What grade do you climb down the wall? knock about 3 grades off for leadin sport routes down there.

5+ clean, onsight and on the lead on your first sport leading outdoors would be a very good effort.

Have fun and don't mind the chavs..!

On a good day 6a, my hardest lead so far was a 5+.
I don't think I'm going to be leading much above a 4+ though, certainly not on the first trip down there

Chavs eh? Hurrah, everywhere's got 'em, they're a bit like pigeons that way... The guidebook did mention about "local youths" throwing stuff at climbers, are they a regular feature? How much do they affect the grade? e.g. does a 4 become a 6a+ if you're dodging stones and verbal abuse the entire way?

In reply to Durbs: Emphasising what AJM has said above, at this time of year you will probably want to catch the sun and be out of any strong wind so do not disdain The Cuttings even though its lower-grade routes are not great; it gets the sn from dawn until about 2 and it is out of the prevailing south-westerlies.

In reply to Durbs:

You seem to have got an answer about the bolts... yep, a sling and probably two screwgates will be needed to rig the lower-off. Also (you probably know this) I would rig a top rope through a couple of slings/screwgates, rather than going directly through the staples - saves them a bit of wear.

I second/third the comments about The Cuttings - most of the lower-grade routes are rubbish, and so polished they may put you off climbing outside at all! Jam and Opus are good, though, as folk have said.

Godnor Far North/Cheyne Weares has some good lower grade routes - Tombstone is meant to be good (3+?) Jacob's Ladder is an ace F5, and there are some 4+s which do have quite hard 'stopper' cruxes to overcome a blank band of rock. It is also just above the sea, in a lovely location. Gets the morning sun, so you could do a half day there, then run across to the other side of the island and catch the afternoon sun as well.

In reply to Durbs:

As others have said re The Cuttings, it is a good winter venue, and begginer outdoor venue as there's no exposure to deal with. As a general rule the easy routes anywhere right of The Sod are good. To the left they are mostly poor but there are a couple of enjoyable ones so just go find out!