In reply to Scotti:
it will take a 6 or 7kn fall i think (not sure about the fall factors).
this worth reading
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1477
6.7kn of force generated as calculated in this article..
It's up to you how you protect a route. If i'm finding a move tricky i'd have no worries putting 2 or 3 bits of gear in if the placements were available...
if you could use two x No.1s it'd be even better if you could equalise them - you can do that by clove hitching a sling to the 2 attachment points (i.e. to krabs/qds on the wires). Not sure if this would give you a 12kn placement but it's got to be better than 6kn...