UKC

Hia Guys

I am 16 and an experienced indoor climber 6b+ on lead routes indoors.

Me and will my climbing partener are in the same boat and want to get out on our local cliffs (Near Aberdeen)

However I am not really sure how to set up anchor points and belays.(Some links and visuals may be useful here ?)We have more than enough equipment between us and the confidence to lead outdoors (I think) however need some guidence on this matter.

Also does anyone have any info/advice of routes near cove or portlethen?

Any advice on these matters would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advance.

Tom

In reply to deeview: I'm just getting into trad myself. I've found that a lot of trad routes do actually have anchor bolts which makes things a bit easier, although obviously you'll need to decide whether you'll need to back them up.

I learnt about anchor and trad techniques from a book (rock climbing essential skills and techniques by Libby Peter), I practised them at ground/bouldering level and had someone check my trad placements to make sure they were sound.

In reply to deeview:

Ask around at your wall. Chances are they either run outdoor courses to show you the basics or someone there will be willing to take you out.

The alternative is to read and fully digest some books on the subject like Libby Peter's excellent one (check Amazon) but the obvious risk is you have no-one to point out obvious (and easy to make) mistakes when you're actually trying it so you need to be the sort of person who can absorb written instructions easily and not make mistakes of the bad and permanent type.

In reply to deeview:

Oh and since no-one's said it yet consider your indoor grade irrelevant when you start outdoors - it's an entirely different game and you have a whole host of skills aside from the climbing which you need to learn if you're going to survive the experience. Start easy, easy, easy. And at your age I hate to say it but your parents should be made aware what you're up to. If you're lucky you may persuade them to pay for a course?

In reply to deeview:

I'd advise having a bit of a lesson on the ground before you do it for real - don't wait until you're at the top of a route before you make your first belay. There is a fair bit to get right in your head, and it is easy to make mistakes when you are new to it. There is also an art to putting in your gear correctly - so advice from an experienced climber will be invaluable. This doesn't have to be from someone taking a fee for a course, just find a friend in the know with a spare half hour!

Either way, good luck with it - achieving your first few leads is a great feeling.

In reply to gobsmacker:

thanks gobsmaxker and every1 else. that is all sound advice

any t'internet links around?

In reply to deeview:

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/bmcNews/media/u_content/File/safety_skills/publicat...

Check this out. I've just been reading it, found it quite usefull.

In reply to deeview:


There are some things - not many, I admit, but a few, which are best demonstrated in real life.....

Can an internet page really show you the infinate variety of gear placements and directional forces which make up individual belays?

That is probably why there are so few good sites.

Here are some (not very good) ones! I think you could do with more pictures!

http://www.planetfear.com/article_detail.asp?a_id=142

http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=1888

http://www.coolsportz.com/traditional-leading/default.htm

You don't very often find bolts at the top - that person was just teasing.

Put in a minimum of 2 anchors - I usually put in 3.

Make sure that each anchor is independant - that if one of the other anchors failed, it would not affect the other anchors. So each anchor has its own bit of rope, tied off at both ends.

Make sure that the anchors are pointing in the direction that the pull will come from if the person falls off. Don't put an angle into the ropes, by having your body higher than the anchors. If the person falls, the force will pull you downwards.

Make sure that all the anchors are in tension, with no slack on any of them.

Make sure that the rock that you put the anchors in is sound. Rock at the top of climbs can often be more crumbly and loose than on the climb itself.

Make sure that you will be in a comfy position, without the rope running over your leg or anything. If possible, be in a position where you can see your second as they climb.

Like someone else said, practice setting up a belay BEFORE you lead a climb. Do it at the bottom of the crag, and get someone more experienced to glance over it for you....

In reply to deeview:

Concentrate first and formost on WHAT you are trying to achieve and don't get too hung up on exactly HOW - there are loads of different ways of achieving essentially the same result IE to tie yourself safely to the rock.

The advice above is good. Aim for at least 2 solid anchors which give you a more stable platform to work from. Don't allow the belays to be slack as this will allow you to be jerked off balance. Remember that if your partner is leading through, the direction of pull on you could come from above ! If you are methodical and can place gear, you should be fine.