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The status of the huts on the Italian side of the range for summer 2008 goes as follows:
Huts that will be open with a warden for the entire season from around 15 June to around 15 Sept (winter rooms available for the rest of the year)are
- Rifugio Elisabetta Montanaro (2200m) at the Combal - tel +39 0165/844080;
- Rifugio Franco Monzino (2580m) at the Chatelet (Innominata ridge) - +39 0165/809553 (see note below);
- Rifugio Torino (3375m) at the Col du Geant - tel +39 0165/842247;
- Rifugio Boccalatte-Piolti (2804m) on the normal route of the Grandes Jorasses - tel. 0165/89970;
- Rifugio Dalmazzi (2590m) at the Triolet- +39 0165/869098;
- Rifugio Elena (2062m) at the Pre de Bar - +39 0165/844688.
Open with warden for a limited time in August, open w/o warden for the rest of the year:
- Rifugio Borelli-Pivano (2310m) at the Combalet (Aiguille Noire).
Huts and bivy huts open all year long w/o warden, and who offer some kind of internal implement like blankets or cooking tools (but NO stove!):
- Bivacco Gino Rainetto – Giovane Montagna (3040m) at the Petit Mont Blanc;
- Rifugio Quintino Sella (3371m) at the Rochers du Mont Blanc (Miage Wall);
- Bivacchi Eccles or Lampugnani - Crippa (3850m) at the Pic Eccles;
- Bivacco Della Fourche – Alberico e Borgna (3680m), Col De La Fourche;
- Bivacco Ettore Canzio (3810m), Col Des Grandes Jorasses (repaired last autumn);
- Bivacco Mario Jachia (3264m), Aiguille De L’Eveque;
- Rifugio Giusto Gervasutti (2835m), Freboudze Glacier;
- Bivacco Gianni Comino (2430m), Greuvetta Glacier;
- Bivacchi Fiorio (2800m), Pre De Bar Glacier.
Bivy huts open all year long w/o warden, functional as shelters for the night, but with little or no internal equipment.
Bivacco dell’Estelette (2958m) at the Col De L’Estelette;
Bivacco Craveri (3490m) at Breche Nord de Peuterey (Peuterey Ridge);
Bivacco della Brenva (3200m), Brenva Glacier
Important things to notice:
- The “Francesco Gonella Hut (3041m) continues to be closed. Because of the rebuilding works, this hut, that serves the Italian normal route to the summit of Mt. Blanc WILL (again) BE CLOSED FOR THE ENTIRE SUMMER 2008. Also, the winter hut (that serves for the construction worker) is NOT accessible. Access to the last section of the hut access trail is forbidden, as there’s a high danger debris falling from the hut platform down the trail below.
- After two years of stop because of restoration works, the Franco Monzino hut (2580m), located on the lower part of the Innominata ridge, between the Brouillard and Freney glaciers on the south side of Mt. Blanc will open again for this season – from about June 15th 2008 to Sept 15th. The hut, owned by the Courmayeur Guides Society, will be guarded by a local guide. The short ferrata leading to the hut has been repaired too.
Hope this may help dispel some of the confusion surrounding the status of the hut on this side of the range. If there's anything else you need to know on the topic, let me know here.
Huts that will be open with a warden for the entire season from around 15 June to around 15 Sept (winter rooms available for the rest of the year)are
- Rifugio Elisabetta Montanaro (2200m) at the Combal - tel +39 0165/844080;
- Rifugio Franco Monzino (2580m) at the Chatelet (Innominata ridge) - +39 0165/809553 (see note below);
- Rifugio Torino (3375m) at the Col du Geant - tel +39 0165/842247;
- Rifugio Boccalatte-Piolti (2804m) on the normal route of the Grandes Jorasses - tel. 0165/89970;
- Rifugio Dalmazzi (2590m) at the Triolet- +39 0165/869098;
- Rifugio Elena (2062m) at the Pre de Bar - +39 0165/844688.
Open with warden for a limited time in August, open w/o warden for the rest of the year:
- Rifugio Borelli-Pivano (2310m) at the Combalet (Aiguille Noire).
Huts and bivy huts open all year long w/o warden, and who offer some kind of internal implement like blankets or cooking tools (but NO stove!):
- Bivacco Gino Rainetto – Giovane Montagna (3040m) at the Petit Mont Blanc;
- Rifugio Quintino Sella (3371m) at the Rochers du Mont Blanc (Miage Wall);
- Bivacchi Eccles or Lampugnani - Crippa (3850m) at the Pic Eccles;
- Bivacco Della Fourche – Alberico e Borgna (3680m), Col De La Fourche;
- Bivacco Ettore Canzio (3810m), Col Des Grandes Jorasses (repaired last autumn);
- Bivacco Mario Jachia (3264m), Aiguille De L’Eveque;
- Rifugio Giusto Gervasutti (2835m), Freboudze Glacier;
- Bivacco Gianni Comino (2430m), Greuvetta Glacier;
- Bivacchi Fiorio (2800m), Pre De Bar Glacier.
Bivy huts open all year long w/o warden, functional as shelters for the night, but with little or no internal equipment.
Bivacco dell’Estelette (2958m) at the Col De L’Estelette;
Bivacco Craveri (3490m) at Breche Nord de Peuterey (Peuterey Ridge);
Bivacco della Brenva (3200m), Brenva Glacier
Important things to notice:
- The “Francesco Gonella Hut (3041m) continues to be closed. Because of the rebuilding works, this hut, that serves the Italian normal route to the summit of Mt. Blanc WILL (again) BE CLOSED FOR THE ENTIRE SUMMER 2008. Also, the winter hut (that serves for the construction worker) is NOT accessible. Access to the last section of the hut access trail is forbidden, as there’s a high danger debris falling from the hut platform down the trail below.
- After two years of stop because of restoration works, the Franco Monzino hut (2580m), located on the lower part of the Innominata ridge, between the Brouillard and Freney glaciers on the south side of Mt. Blanc will open again for this season – from about June 15th 2008 to Sept 15th. The hut, owned by the Courmayeur Guides Society, will be guarded by a local guide. The short ferrata leading to the hut has been repaired too.
Hope this may help dispel some of the confusion surrounding the status of the hut on this side of the range. If there's anything else you need to know on the topic, let me know here.
In reply to Luca Signorelli: Thanks Luca, really helpful. If you hear any updates on the approach to the Quintino Sella hut they would be appreciated (I saw you update the other day)
Is it now pretty much expected that you will take a sheet sleeping bag to Italian huts?
Is it now pretty much expected that you will take a sheet sleeping bag to Italian huts?
In reply to MG:
Unless there's something new, the classic route from the Miage should the one to choose.
http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/74089.jpg
Yes, absolutely. It's now mandatory in all CAI huts with a warden.
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli) Thanks Luca, really helpful. If you hear any updates on the approach to the Quintino Sella hut they would be appreciated (I saw you update the other day)
Unless there's something new, the classic route from the Miage should the one to choose.
http://img.ukclimbing.com/i/74089.jpg
>
> Is it now pretty much expected that you will take a sheet sleeping bag to Italian huts?
> Is it now pretty much expected that you will take a sheet sleeping bag to Italian huts?
Yes, absolutely. It's now mandatory in all CAI huts with a warden.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/380707.jpg
This is another recent image of the lower Mt. Blanc glacier seen from the Miage, the passage to the Quintino Sella is to the left.
http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/380707.jpg
This is another recent image of the lower Mt. Blanc glacier seen from the Miage, the passage to the Quintino Sella is to the left.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Last bump...
Last bump...
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Any info about the status of the Bivacco Lucia e Piero Ghiglione / Trident hut ?
And does the closure of the Gonella hut make any difference to a choice of descent route back down to the Val Veni from the top of Monte Bianco?
Any info about the status of the Bivacco Lucia e Piero Ghiglione / Trident hut ?
And does the closure of the Gonella hut make any difference to a choice of descent route back down to the Val Veni from the top of Monte Bianco?
In reply to Luca Signorelli: Good one as ever Luca, your posting is now copied to the diary on my iPod, with your other recommendations about routes on the Italian side.
...was looking in the guides at some of the easier routes from the Torino Hut last night. We've got limited time and need easy access...hoping for the arrival of cold nights and clear days in time for 24th June...
...planning to check conditions with you nearer the date but is there an Italian version of the OHM 'conditions' site? http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/fiche.php?id=02&req=1&ling=Fr
...was looking in the guides at some of the easier routes from the Torino Hut last night. We've got limited time and need easy access...hoping for the arrival of cold nights and clear days in time for 24th June...
...planning to check conditions with you nearer the date but is there an Italian version of the OHM 'conditions' site? http://www.ohm-chamonix.com/fiche.php?id=02&req=1&ling=Fr
In reply to Luca Signorelli: Thanks for the information, very useful. Could you please tell me what is the best alternative to the Gonella Hut for doing the Italian normal route on Mont Blanc ?
Hello everyone,
The hut was physically removed from the mountain around 2000 (don't remember the precise year) because of the progressive worsening of the hut basement conditions. Despite the warnings (and the fact that the hut floor was in the end tilted around 25°) some people still used it, so it was decided to take it away from the mountain before it decided to slide down the Brenva plateau on its own - carrying away in the process a token dozen of climbers....
There where talks about replacing the hut with another one with a slight different location. However, the status of "bivy huts" on the Italian side of MB is currently under scrutiny, and the hut owner (Italian CAAI) has some budget problem, so nothing came out of it. The fact that Brenva routes aren't exactly crowded didn't help either!
Well, yes, because the difference the closure makes is the last leg of access to the Gonella platform (i.e. the first if you're going down!) being officially closed, and transit here forbidden. This section was a short kind of ferrata, so there's no real alternative (ok, there IS an alternative, but is pretty much on the glacier below of the Aiguilles Grises ridge above, not really "normal route" stuff). In other words - if ANYTHING happens there, it's your fault.
Also - the Gonella winter hut is now used by the crew doing the hut rebuilding. I know a few of them, they're guides/climbers and good people too (two of them seriously risked their skins last July trying to locate the position of a group of missing Polish climbers). This said, they have their schedule , who don't necessirily include the problems of climbers "just passing by".
In other words - if you're "just passing by" try being less intrusive as you can, ok?
>Could you please tell me what is the best alternative to the Gonella Hut for doing the Italian normal route on Mont Blanc ?
See above. You may bivy 30 minutes below the hut on a huge scree slope called "Chaux de Pesse" ("dry pasture" in local dialect), try to find a spot that's protected (like a boulder's back or something like this). Otherwise, there's some alternative above the hut, but it may be seriously affected by winds coming down from the glacier.
Also, you may sleep on the Miage moraine - but there's another hour or two to add to an already very long route.
>...was looking in the guides at some of the easier routes from the Torino Hut last night. We've got limited time and need easy access
The "satellites", or Entreves/Toula aiguilles, everything else is a bit time consuming. Ok, there are also the L flank pillars of the Tacul (like the Mellano line on the Three Points Pillars, AWESOME route) or the Androsace Pillar (more difficult)
Yes, the "Fondazione Montagna Sicura".
http://www.fondazionemontagnasicura.org/conditions_e.asp
When you're in the area, pay a visit to the Guides Society bureau near Courmayeur's church, and ask them the latest info.
> Any info about the status of the Bivacco Lucia e Piero Ghiglione / Trident hut ?
The hut was physically removed from the mountain around 2000 (don't remember the precise year) because of the progressive worsening of the hut basement conditions. Despite the warnings (and the fact that the hut floor was in the end tilted around 25°) some people still used it, so it was decided to take it away from the mountain before it decided to slide down the Brenva plateau on its own - carrying away in the process a token dozen of climbers....
There where talks about replacing the hut with another one with a slight different location. However, the status of "bivy huts" on the Italian side of MB is currently under scrutiny, and the hut owner (Italian CAAI) has some budget problem, so nothing came out of it. The fact that Brenva routes aren't exactly crowded didn't help either!
> And does the closure of the Gonella hut make any difference to a choice of descent route back down to the Val Veni from the top of Monte Bianco?
Well, yes, because the difference the closure makes is the last leg of access to the Gonella platform (i.e. the first if you're going down!) being officially closed, and transit here forbidden. This section was a short kind of ferrata, so there's no real alternative (ok, there IS an alternative, but is pretty much on the glacier below of the Aiguilles Grises ridge above, not really "normal route" stuff). In other words - if ANYTHING happens there, it's your fault.
Also - the Gonella winter hut is now used by the crew doing the hut rebuilding. I know a few of them, they're guides/climbers and good people too (two of them seriously risked their skins last July trying to locate the position of a group of missing Polish climbers). This said, they have their schedule , who don't necessirily include the problems of climbers "just passing by".
In other words - if you're "just passing by" try being less intrusive as you can, ok?
>Could you please tell me what is the best alternative to the Gonella Hut for doing the Italian normal route on Mont Blanc ?
See above. You may bivy 30 minutes below the hut on a huge scree slope called "Chaux de Pesse" ("dry pasture" in local dialect), try to find a spot that's protected (like a boulder's back or something like this). Otherwise, there's some alternative above the hut, but it may be seriously affected by winds coming down from the glacier.
Also, you may sleep on the Miage moraine - but there's another hour or two to add to an already very long route.
>...was looking in the guides at some of the easier routes from the Torino Hut last night. We've got limited time and need easy access
The "satellites", or Entreves/Toula aiguilles, everything else is a bit time consuming. Ok, there are also the L flank pillars of the Tacul (like the Mellano line on the Three Points Pillars, AWESOME route) or the Androsace Pillar (more difficult)
> there an Italian version of the OHM 'conditions' site?
Yes, the "Fondazione Montagna Sicura".
http://www.fondazionemontagnasicura.org/conditions_e.asp
When you're in the area, pay a visit to the Guides Society bureau near Courmayeur's church, and ask them the latest info.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Yes, the "Fondazione Montagna Sicura".
When you're in the area, pay a visit to the Guides Society bureau near Courmayeur's church, and ask them the latest info.
Excellent, NM
Yes, the "Fondazione Montagna Sicura".
When you're in the area, pay a visit to the Guides Society bureau near Courmayeur's church, and ask them the latest info.
Excellent, NM
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
The Boccalatte hut has not been open yet, because of the excessive quantity of snow.
> - Rifugio Boccalatte-Piolti (2804m) on the normal route of the Grandes Jorasses - tel. 0165/89970;
The Boccalatte hut has not been open yet, because of the excessive quantity of snow.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Today has been particularly ugly for mountain rescue on both sides of the MB massif, sadly with some fatalities and several close call. As there's seems to be some confusion on how to call rescue while in the area, here's a reminder
In France:
Phone: call 112 - in alternative call or or send a text message to +33(0)4.50.53.16.89 (PGHM)
Radio: contact 154.4625 Mhz (PGHM) or, if the other frequency does not work call 161.300 Mhz (channel E - civil protection)
In Italy:
Phone: call 118 - in alternative call +39 800 319319 (Aosta civil protection) or +39 (0) 165 238222 (Aosta rescue base). Calling 112/113 (Police) or 115 (Fire Brigade) will work too - but remember to specify you need a mountain rescue!
Radio: if nothing else works contact 161.300 Mhz (channel E - civil protection)
In Switzerland
Phone: call 144
Radio: if nothing else works contact 161.300 Mhz (channel E - civil protection)
Channel E: it's the inter-regional civil protection radio network, set few years ago as emergency measure in case of serious natural catastrophes in the MB area (like the year 2000 flood in VdA). It's NOT mountain rescue specific, but works like magic where the phone wont work. If you will use your transceiver, remember that MUST be equipped with a PL at 123hz, otherwise you wont be able to communicate with the relays. Distress call is 5 tones 21414 (ZVEI-1 or 2) with PL 123 Hz. Test call is 5 tones 21301 (ZVEI 1)
It must be also added that the following huts on the Italian side of MB
Boccalatte (Jorasses)
Borelli (Peuterey)
have transceiver set to the emergency frequency that can be used in case of danger, and are always available
The following huts
Dalmazzi (Triolet)
Torino (Col du Geant)
Monzino (Freney)
have emergency transceivers available when the warden is present.
Hope this is clear enough, and somehow useful.
Today has been particularly ugly for mountain rescue on both sides of the MB massif, sadly with some fatalities and several close call. As there's seems to be some confusion on how to call rescue while in the area, here's a reminder
In France:
Phone: call 112 - in alternative call or or send a text message to +33(0)4.50.53.16.89 (PGHM)
Radio: contact 154.4625 Mhz (PGHM) or, if the other frequency does not work call 161.300 Mhz (channel E - civil protection)
In Italy:
Phone: call 118 - in alternative call +39 800 319319 (Aosta civil protection) or +39 (0) 165 238222 (Aosta rescue base). Calling 112/113 (Police) or 115 (Fire Brigade) will work too - but remember to specify you need a mountain rescue!
Radio: if nothing else works contact 161.300 Mhz (channel E - civil protection)
In Switzerland
Phone: call 144
Radio: if nothing else works contact 161.300 Mhz (channel E - civil protection)
Channel E: it's the inter-regional civil protection radio network, set few years ago as emergency measure in case of serious natural catastrophes in the MB area (like the year 2000 flood in VdA). It's NOT mountain rescue specific, but works like magic where the phone wont work. If you will use your transceiver, remember that MUST be equipped with a PL at 123hz, otherwise you wont be able to communicate with the relays. Distress call is 5 tones 21414 (ZVEI-1 or 2) with PL 123 Hz. Test call is 5 tones 21301 (ZVEI 1)
It must be also added that the following huts on the Italian side of MB
Boccalatte (Jorasses)
Borelli (Peuterey)
have transceiver set to the emergency frequency that can be used in case of danger, and are always available
The following huts
Dalmazzi (Triolet)
Torino (Col du Geant)
Monzino (Freney)
have emergency transceivers available when the warden is present.
Hope this is clear enough, and somehow useful.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Cheers for all that, I had the PGHM number saved in my phone and have now added the Italian one as well.
On the french side of the mountain, is it true that the Argentiere hut is closed all season as well? Not seen anything about it but a freind heard that it was. If so, is the winter room still open?
Cheers for all that, I had the PGHM number saved in my phone and have now added the Italian one as well.
On the french side of the mountain, is it true that the Argentiere hut is closed all season as well? Not seen anything about it but a freind heard that it was. If so, is the winter room still open?
In reply to liz j:
Yes, it's true. The hut is now pretty old and badly needed some restoration work. Like the Gonella rebuilding, I think is all part of the INTERREG III program (it's a funding program to restore/rebuild/put to norm high mountain accomodations)
>If so, is the winter room still open?
Not sure, but I think it isn't. You should check at the OHM for that.
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli)
> On the french side of the mountain, is it true that the Argentiere hut is closed all season as well? Not seen anything about it but a freind heard that it was.
Yes, it's true. The hut is now pretty old and badly needed some restoration work. Like the Gonella rebuilding, I think is all part of the INTERREG III program (it's a funding program to restore/rebuild/put to norm high mountain accomodations)
>If so, is the winter room still open?
Not sure, but I think it isn't. You should check at the OHM for that.
There’s an upgrade on the status of the reconstruction of the Gonella hut (at the start of the Italian Normal Route to Mt. Blanc). The hut is now (hopefully) expected to be ready for June 2009. The Turin section of CAI who owns the hut has released some picture of the building as it will looks in one year. The goals set by CAI for the new Gonella are quite ambitious, as they want it to be
1)completely self sufficient for energy/water consumption
2)state of art in terms of environmental impact
3)comfortable
4)safe from fire/avalanche/rockfall hazard
The new hut will have space just of 28 beds, reflecting the rather lonely status of the Italian normal route to MB. It is expected/hoped that a new hut may attracted more climbers on this side of the range, but if this will happen is (IMHO) debatable.
Here are the pictures:
http://www.caitorino.it/FGonella_4.jpg
http://www.caitorino.it/FGonella_1.jpg
http://www.caitorino.it/FGonella_5.jpg
A major problem linked with the Gonella rebuild was the stability of the hut platform, as just before the old hut was closed, the rock platform upon which it stood was “sliding” out quite rapidly. The platform has been “fixed” using the micropoles technique.
Interestingly, while the “yellow” hut built in 1961 has been completely demolished to build the new one, the ancient wood hut built in 1889 will remain there, restored, and become part museum, part warehouse for the gear of the hut guests.
The whole thing is costing quite a lot, and despite the expenses being partially funded by the usual INTEREG/III program, Turin’s CAI has opened a public subscription. Those who will participate will have their name included in a “golden book” dedicated to the hut, plus some other benefit.
Once the Gonella will be re-opened, the number of restored huts on the Italian side of MB will be up to 4 (Gonella, Monzino, Boccalatte and Dalmazzi). The most likely candidate for the next restoration/rebuild is rumoured to be nothing else than the Torino hut. However, engineering problems there are enormous to overcome, and it’s believed the but will be rebuild together with the entire Helbronner station infrastructure, and the planned new Entreves station of the telepherique (that’s going to replace the venerable La Palud building).
1)completely self sufficient for energy/water consumption
2)state of art in terms of environmental impact
3)comfortable
4)safe from fire/avalanche/rockfall hazard
The new hut will have space just of 28 beds, reflecting the rather lonely status of the Italian normal route to MB. It is expected/hoped that a new hut may attracted more climbers on this side of the range, but if this will happen is (IMHO) debatable.
Here are the pictures:
http://www.caitorino.it/FGonella_4.jpg
http://www.caitorino.it/FGonella_1.jpg
http://www.caitorino.it/FGonella_5.jpg
A major problem linked with the Gonella rebuild was the stability of the hut platform, as just before the old hut was closed, the rock platform upon which it stood was “sliding” out quite rapidly. The platform has been “fixed” using the micropoles technique.
Interestingly, while the “yellow” hut built in 1961 has been completely demolished to build the new one, the ancient wood hut built in 1889 will remain there, restored, and become part museum, part warehouse for the gear of the hut guests.
The whole thing is costing quite a lot, and despite the expenses being partially funded by the usual INTEREG/III program, Turin’s CAI has opened a public subscription. Those who will participate will have their name included in a “golden book” dedicated to the hut, plus some other benefit.
Once the Gonella will be re-opened, the number of restored huts on the Italian side of MB will be up to 4 (Gonella, Monzino, Boccalatte and Dalmazzi). The most likely candidate for the next restoration/rebuild is rumoured to be nothing else than the Torino hut. However, engineering problems there are enormous to overcome, and it’s believed the but will be rebuild together with the entire Helbronner station infrastructure, and the planned new Entreves station of the telepherique (that’s going to replace the venerable La Palud building).
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Brilliant work Luca, I think this is information is very generous and I'm sure everyone heading out to the Alps this year will be grateful.
I was wondering if you knew the current status of the Rossi Volante hut on the E end of Breithorn. Last time I heard it was suffering from water damage, limiting the number of bunks. Do you know if this has been repaired, or if the situation has got worse?
Anyway thanks again, and if you are at the Everest evening in Cham next month I may bump into you, looks like lots of UKCers are going!
Brilliant work Luca, I think this is information is very generous and I'm sure everyone heading out to the Alps this year will be grateful.
I was wondering if you knew the current status of the Rossi Volante hut on the E end of Breithorn. Last time I heard it was suffering from water damage, limiting the number of bunks. Do you know if this has been repaired, or if the situation has got worse?
Anyway thanks again, and if you are at the Everest evening in Cham next month I may bump into you, looks like lots of UKCers are going!
In reply to Alex Roddie:
Yes, it did suffer from water damage (somehow still usable, through) but repairs are scheduled for this August.
>
> I was wondering if you knew the current status of the Rossi Volante hut on the E end of Breithorn. Last time I heard it was suffering from water damage, limiting the number of bunks. Do you know if this has been repaired, or if the situation has got worse?
> I was wondering if you knew the current status of the Rossi Volante hut on the E end of Breithorn. Last time I heard it was suffering from water damage, limiting the number of bunks. Do you know if this has been repaired, or if the situation has got worse?
Yes, it did suffer from water damage (somehow still usable, through) but repairs are scheduled for this August.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Thanks. Now we're looking at most of the AD routes around Zermatt it's nice to keep our options open.
See you over there
A
Thanks. Now we're looking at most of the AD routes around Zermatt it's nice to keep our options open.
See you over there
A
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Few news:
- The Boccalatte hut is open, but guarded yet! Warden this year will be again "killer team" Davide Gonella and Mauro Bianchi, you may call Davide at +39 340 4065672 to get the latest news on the Boccalatte. Be careful you're going there as apparently there's still a bit of snow, and the hut itself got quite hammered, as part of the balcony rail is missing.
- The Monzino hut is open, but looks like there's some intermittent work to be done on the "ferrata" access to the hut, starting from this week. To avoid surprises, call the Monzino warden, Armando Chanoine (ph. +39 0165 809553 or +39 333 9480629) and ask for the closure days (won't be many, I'm told).
- For all of you doing the Tour de Mt. Blanc - the so called "Casermetta" at the Col de La Seigne has been restored and officially reopened last weekend. It will serve as info/meeting point for the trekkers and as a (small) museum. You may check more on this on (French language) flyer courtesy of the people of Espace Mt. Blanc
http://www.espace-mont-blanc.com/netdownload_pup.aspx?amb=2-0-0-31-0
Few news:
- The Boccalatte hut is open, but guarded yet! Warden this year will be again "killer team" Davide Gonella and Mauro Bianchi, you may call Davide at +39 340 4065672 to get the latest news on the Boccalatte. Be careful you're going there as apparently there's still a bit of snow, and the hut itself got quite hammered, as part of the balcony rail is missing.
- The Monzino hut is open, but looks like there's some intermittent work to be done on the "ferrata" access to the hut, starting from this week. To avoid surprises, call the Monzino warden, Armando Chanoine (ph. +39 0165 809553 or +39 333 9480629) and ask for the closure days (won't be many, I'm told).
- For all of you doing the Tour de Mt. Blanc - the so called "Casermetta" at the Col de La Seigne has been restored and officially reopened last weekend. It will serve as info/meeting point for the trekkers and as a (small) museum. You may check more on this on (French language) flyer courtesy of the people of Espace Mt. Blanc
http://www.espace-mont-blanc.com/netdownload_pup.aspx?amb=2-0-0-31-0
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
If the Boccalatte got damaged, it it possible that the Canzio bivouac hut is ok?I would like to consider staying there in early September.
Rob
If the Boccalatte got damaged, it it possible that the Canzio bivouac hut is ok?I would like to consider staying there in early September.
Rob
In reply to veteye:
It got some minor damage actually, but I understand that there's some work there to do (gotta check with Davide for the details). However, the hut is perfectly usable.
Yes, got repaired last autumn after a window broke and the snow got in, should be in good conditions if nothing particular has happened in the last two months. I'll keep this thread updated.
This may be a good occasion to remark that the Eccles huts got some trouble too - as checked by a UKC member, the Crippa hut (lower one) is quite dirty, and the upper one (Lampugnani) got damaged by snow/ice and is in a sorry state. I've alerted the owners (CAI), I'll keep you posted.
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli)
> If the Boccalatte got damaged, i
> If the Boccalatte got damaged, i
It got some minor damage actually, but I understand that there's some work there to do (gotta check with Davide for the details). However, the hut is perfectly usable.
> It it possible that the Canzio bivouac hut is ok?I would like to consider staying there in early September.
Yes, got repaired last autumn after a window broke and the snow got in, should be in good conditions if nothing particular has happened in the last two months. I'll keep this thread updated.
This may be a good occasion to remark that the Eccles huts got some trouble too - as checked by a UKC member, the Crippa hut (lower one) is quite dirty, and the upper one (Lampugnani) got damaged by snow/ice and is in a sorry state. I've alerted the owners (CAI), I'll keep you posted.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Thank you.I wonder how you manage to have a normal life, when you seem to keep us all updated and educated with respect to the Alps, all the time.
Rob
Thank you.I wonder how you manage to have a normal life, when you seem to keep us all updated and educated with respect to the Alps, all the time.
Rob
In reply to veteye:
Don't remember saying anywhere I've a normal life
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli)
> Thank you.I wonder how you manage to have a normal life, when you seem to keep us all updated and educated with respect to the Alps, all the time.
> Thank you.I wonder how you manage to have a normal life, when you seem to keep us all updated and educated with respect to the Alps, all the time.
Don't remember saying anywhere I've a normal life
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Because of the above mentioned works, on 9th and 10th July, between 7h and 15h access to the Monzino hut will be closed.
> - The Monzino hut is open, but looks like there's some intermittent work to be done on the "ferrata" access to the hut, starting from this week. To avoid surprises, call the Monzino warden, Armando Chanoine (ph. +39 0165 809553 or +39 333 9480629) and ask for the closure days (won't be many, I'm told).
Because of the above mentioned works, on 9th and 10th July, between 7h and 15h access to the Monzino hut will be closed.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
- The Boccalatte hut is now officially open and guarded. The Grandes Jorasses route has been traced today.
- There's some crowding at both Eccles huts, mainly because the recently-opened-again Monzino is attracting some traffic. The Innominata is traced, but looks like the Freney Pillars have still some serious snow.
Conditions over the whole area are pretty unstable, and the weekend is going to be worse.
- The Boccalatte hut is now officially open and guarded. The Grandes Jorasses route has been traced today.
- There's some crowding at both Eccles huts, mainly because the recently-opened-again Monzino is attracting some traffic. The Innominata is traced, but looks like the Freney Pillars have still some serious snow.
Conditions over the whole area are pretty unstable, and the weekend is going to be worse.
For those interested:
The Courmayeur Mountain Guides, in collaboration with the Fondazione Montagna Sicura (this side version of the OHM), the VdA authorities and their French colleagues, are organizing one day free mini courses ( on mountain safety, whose aim is to teach
-Moving safely on glacial terrain
-Crevasses rescue techniques
-Basic mountain first aid
-How to deal with mountain accidents
These courses are aimed at people with already some mountain experience, but relatively new to the alpine environment (in other words, you must already know how to walk with crampons - i.e. no complete beginners!).
Lessons will be issued at the Col du Geant.
Normally courses are taught in Italian, but should a group of at least six English speaking people be interested, they will be available to organize lessons in English. As I said, the course is free (you must just pay for the lift to Helbronner). A deposit of 50€ is required (to be refunded entirely at the end of the course).
If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll put people in touch with the organizers
The Courmayeur Mountain Guides, in collaboration with the Fondazione Montagna Sicura (this side version of the OHM), the VdA authorities and their French colleagues, are organizing one day free mini courses ( on mountain safety, whose aim is to teach
-Moving safely on glacial terrain
-Crevasses rescue techniques
-Basic mountain first aid
-How to deal with mountain accidents
These courses are aimed at people with already some mountain experience, but relatively new to the alpine environment (in other words, you must already know how to walk with crampons - i.e. no complete beginners!).
Lessons will be issued at the Col du Geant.
Normally courses are taught in Italian, but should a group of at least six English speaking people be interested, they will be available to organize lessons in English. As I said, the course is free (you must just pay for the lift to Helbronner). A deposit of 50€ is required (to be refunded entirely at the end of the course).
If anyone is interested, let me know and I'll put people in touch with the organizers
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
What is the water situation like at the Jacchia Bivy at this time of year? Imagine there are snowpatches or ephemeral streams to utilize?
What is the water situation like at the Jacchia Bivy at this time of year? Imagine there are snowpatches or ephemeral streams to utilize?
In reply to Mr Lopez:
No problem, plenty of fusion water near the hut or during the approach (and, believe me, you'll have plenty of time to ponder upon the water during the approach!). I believe the only time I've seen the hut area completely bare was in 2003!
If you'll go there, let me know your impressions - I'm always keen to hear about fellow Jachia-goers (an arcane alpine activity!) .
Keep the hut tidy - it's one of the most comfortable bivy hut of the range mainly because no one goes there!!
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli)
> What is the water situation like at the Jacchia Bivy at this time of year? Imagine there are snowpatches or ephemeral streams to utilize?
> What is the water situation like at the Jacchia Bivy at this time of year? Imagine there are snowpatches or ephemeral streams to utilize?
No problem, plenty of fusion water near the hut or during the approach (and, believe me, you'll have plenty of time to ponder upon the water during the approach!). I believe the only time I've seen the hut area completely bare was in 2003!
If you'll go there, let me know your impressions - I'm always keen to hear about fellow Jachia-goers (an arcane alpine activity!) .
Keep the hut tidy - it's one of the most comfortable bivy hut of the range mainly because no one goes there!!
In reply to Luca Signorelli: I will, thanks.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
No luck this time. Got to a couple of hundred metres of the hut but had to retreat.
There was a cloud that liked the italian side as much as we did! We only managed to actually see the col for barely a few minutes...
Is there a pattern for this plume type cloud? Is it always there with W/NW winds?
Beautiful but brutal approach, but on a sick way quite enjoyable, awesome landscape!
Followed the path behind the camping but it took us to the basin west of the Pra Sec and had to do a long uncomfortable traverse, looked for the path in descent but couldn't find it,maybe is not there anymore?
May be go back this week if weather allows, and i'd like to ask you a few questions if you don't mind (though it'd be going off topic).
The plan was to do the Tronchey almost integral (1st and 2nd towers straight up and 3rd the normal zig-zaging way), bivy above the 3rd tower, top up in the morning and traverse the west ridge to finish at the Canzio bivouac.
Now, are there any bivy spots between the tower and the summit?
How long does it usually take to reverse west ridge ? It's described in the Damilano guide but there's no timings. Thinking that depending what time we finish the Tronchey (if we do) we could decide on bivying or head straight for the Canzio.
Thanks for everything
>
> If you'll go there, let me know your impressions - I'm always keen to hear about fellow Jachia-goers (an arcane alpine activity!) .
> If you'll go there, let me know your impressions - I'm always keen to hear about fellow Jachia-goers (an arcane alpine activity!) .
No luck this time. Got to a couple of hundred metres of the hut but had to retreat.
There was a cloud that liked the italian side as much as we did! We only managed to actually see the col for barely a few minutes...
Is there a pattern for this plume type cloud? Is it always there with W/NW winds?
Beautiful but brutal approach, but on a sick way quite enjoyable, awesome landscape!
Followed the path behind the camping but it took us to the basin west of the Pra Sec and had to do a long uncomfortable traverse, looked for the path in descent but couldn't find it,maybe is not there anymore?
May be go back this week if weather allows, and i'd like to ask you a few questions if you don't mind (though it'd be going off topic).
The plan was to do the Tronchey almost integral (1st and 2nd towers straight up and 3rd the normal zig-zaging way), bivy above the 3rd tower, top up in the morning and traverse the west ridge to finish at the Canzio bivouac.
Now, are there any bivy spots between the tower and the summit?
How long does it usually take to reverse west ridge ? It's described in the Damilano guide but there's no timings. Thinking that depending what time we finish the Tronchey (if we do) we could decide on bivying or head straight for the Canzio.
Thanks for everything
In reply to Mr Lopez:
Yes, but in this specific case means bad weather only above a certain altitude, and not a generalized downpour with rain in the valley etc.
However, you did the right thing coming back down!
I just love it, could spend my life just going up and down that slope (yes, everyone makes that face after I tell this...)
No, there's a path leaving from the camping and going east, a trace actually, but helps you going up the initial part of the scree cone coming down from the Pra Sec glacier (the one with the avalanche remains) and avoiding all those bushes. However, there's no trace after lets' say, 1800m of altitude, you've to follow your nose. Is not that difficult after the third or fourth time!
The trail you've taken to the west has a specific utility for locals (and it's not in any map)
Interesting, as you're planning to do the Manera Integral, which is a very rarely climbed route, enchaining it the W ridge. The Tronchey-West Ridge enchainment is probably the finest on the mountain, was first climbed (solo) by Nicholas Jaeger I believe in 1975, but I don't think the West Ridge was ever enchained with the Manera direct. If you can make it, a fine achievement for sure, I'm quite jealous (considering my personal record of five times on the Tronchey...)
Beware that the crux of the Manera Direct is the second tower, the passage is on the left, not straight through the center of the tower (where it hoverhangs so evidently). There's no gear anywhere left
If you enjoy exposure you'll have the ride of your life.
Yes, there are bivy stances above the first tower and, most prominently, between the second and the third (there's snow there right now). Otherwise you may probably be better bivying a little below the summit of GJ.
The average time is 6 to 7 hours, but may take longer because the descent to the col from pt. Young is not totally evident. It's considered more difficult than the normal W-E direction, and at the moment the ridge is quite snowy (as the Tronchey, btw)
I repeat, a complete traverse include the Tronchey would be quite an achievement, and the climb back to the Calotte from the col des Jorasses just will add to the difficulty. But please take care, that's grade A alpine stuff, the real deal, just do not expect another Charlet Platonov!
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli)
>
> [...]
>
> There was a cloud that liked the italian side as much as we did! We only managed to actually see the col for barely a few minutes...
> Is there a pattern for this plume type cloud? Is it always there with W/NW winds?
>
> [...]
>
> There was a cloud that liked the italian side as much as we did! We only managed to actually see the col for barely a few minutes...
> Is there a pattern for this plume type cloud? Is it always there with W/NW winds?
Yes, but in this specific case means bad weather only above a certain altitude, and not a generalized downpour with rain in the valley etc.
However, you did the right thing coming back down!
> Beautiful but brutal approach, but on a sick way quite enjoyable, awesome landscape!
I just love it, could spend my life just going up and down that slope (yes, everyone makes that face after I tell this...)
> Followed the path behind the camping but it took us to the basin west of the Pra Sec and had to do a long uncomfortable traverse, looked for the path in descent but couldn't find it,maybe is not there anymore?
No, there's a path leaving from the camping and going east, a trace actually, but helps you going up the initial part of the scree cone coming down from the Pra Sec glacier (the one with the avalanche remains) and avoiding all those bushes. However, there's no trace after lets' say, 1800m of altitude, you've to follow your nose. Is not that difficult after the third or fourth time!
The trail you've taken to the west has a specific utility for locals (and it's not in any map)
> The plan was to do the Tronchey almost integral (1st and 2nd towers straight up and 3rd the normal zig-zaging way), bivy above the 3rd tower, top up in the morning and traverse the west ridge to finish at the Canzio bivouac.
Interesting, as you're planning to do the Manera Integral, which is a very rarely climbed route, enchaining it the W ridge. The Tronchey-West Ridge enchainment is probably the finest on the mountain, was first climbed (solo) by Nicholas Jaeger I believe in 1975, but I don't think the West Ridge was ever enchained with the Manera direct. If you can make it, a fine achievement for sure, I'm quite jealous (considering my personal record of five times on the Tronchey...)
Beware that the crux of the Manera Direct is the second tower, the passage is on the left, not straight through the center of the tower (where it hoverhangs so evidently). There's no gear anywhere left
If you enjoy exposure you'll have the ride of your life.
> Now, are there any bivy spots between the tower and the summit?
Yes, there are bivy stances above the first tower and, most prominently, between the second and the third (there's snow there right now). Otherwise you may probably be better bivying a little below the summit of GJ.
> How long does it usually take to reverse west ridge ? It's described in the Damilano guide but there's no timings. Thinking that depending what time we finish the Tronchey (if we do) we could decide on bivying or head straight for the Canzio.
The average time is 6 to 7 hours, but may take longer because the descent to the col from pt. Young is not totally evident. It's considered more difficult than the normal W-E direction, and at the moment the ridge is quite snowy (as the Tronchey, btw)
I repeat, a complete traverse include the Tronchey would be quite an achievement, and the climb back to the Calotte from the col des Jorasses just will add to the difficulty. But please take care, that's grade A alpine stuff, the real deal, just do not expect another Charlet Platonov!
In reply to Luca Signorelli: Thank you very much for all the info.
Didn't know about the Manera integral, i think is a logical more aesthetic line, as i'm not a fan of ridge climbs that barely touch the actual ridge, and the A2 section in the 3rd tower direct doesn't sound too inviting.
Hope the weather holds this week, going back tuesday.
Thanks again
Didn't know about the Manera integral, i think is a logical more aesthetic line, as i'm not a fan of ridge climbs that barely touch the actual ridge, and the A2 section in the 3rd tower direct doesn't sound too inviting.
Hope the weather holds this week, going back tuesday.
Thanks again
In reply to Mr Lopez:
It's a small section, and according to Ugo (Manera) the climbing on the third tower was the best of his line. However, I think that sticking to the original route or the Terray variant may be a good idea.
However, the original route, despite the appearances, stick to the ridge much more than you may expect. Exposure at some point is stellar.
At cost of being boring - be careful, it's a tough route on a tough mountain.
> Didn't know about the Manera integral, i think is a logical more aesthetic line, as i'm not a fan of ridge climbs that barely touch the actual ridge, and the A2 section in the 3rd tower direct doesn't sound too inviting.
It's a small section, and according to Ugo (Manera) the climbing on the third tower was the best of his line. However, I think that sticking to the original route or the Terray variant may be a good idea.
However, the original route, despite the appearances, stick to the ridge much more than you may expect. Exposure at some point is stellar.
> Hope the weather holds this week, going back tuesday.
At cost of being boring - be careful, it's a tough route on a tough mountain.
In reply to Luca Signorelli: stayed in the refugio monzino yesterday - what a great hut - thoroughly recommended and amazing views. stunning cirque.
shame there are not more climbs i'm capable of from there....
shame there are not more climbs i'm capable of from there....
In reply to Tobias at Home:
Yes, Armando is doig an excellent job up there, and I'm absolutely happy the whole thing is now managed by the Courmayeur guides again.
Did you visit the cellars and drank the "Grande Cuvee des Guides" wine?
You may have tried hiking to the col de l'Innominata, paying a visit to Andrea Oggioni's plaque and enjoy the incredible view!
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli) stayed in the refugio monzino yesterday - what a great hut - thoroughly recommended and amazing views. stunning cirque.
Yes, Armando is doig an excellent job up there, and I'm absolutely happy the whole thing is now managed by the Courmayeur guides again.
Did you visit the cellars and drank the "Grande Cuvee des Guides" wine?
>
> shame there are not more climbs i'm capable of from there....
> shame there are not more climbs i'm capable of from there....
You may have tried hiking to the col de l'Innominata, paying a visit to Andrea Oggioni's plaque and enjoy the incredible view!
In reply to Luca Signorelli: sadly we had no invitation to the cellars Next time perhaps...
I would have gotten wet feet if we'd gone to the col - I travelled in trainers as we climbed the via ottoz.
To anyone doubting how amazing the location is... http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=93398
Out of interest, do you still think it takes 7hrs to get across to the w face of the noire? Looked a great adventure-just a "little" bit too long for me at the moment and 5hrs extra approach wouldn't help!
I would have gotten wet feet if we'd gone to the col - I travelled in trainers as we climbed the via ottoz.
To anyone doubting how amazing the location is... http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.php?id=93398
Out of interest, do you still think it takes 7hrs to get across to the w face of the noire? Looked a great adventure-just a "little" bit too long for me at the moment and 5hrs extra approach wouldn't help!
In reply to tobias on his phone:
Someone climbed "L’equipée des bras cassés" on the W face to Pt. Brendel early this July and they took 2 hours to cross from the Brogliatta (there's a fixed rope now). The glacier is in far better conditions that few years ago, and there's a decent snow cover. HOWEVER crossing to the base of the Ratti-Vitali (the "proper" route on the W face) will definitely take a bit more, let's say three hours. It's a messy place, if you have a chance get the latest issue of Alp "Grandi Montagne" (can be easily found in Courmayeur or Chamonix) it's called "Quota 4000" and devoted to less popular/more difficult 4000, like the Aiguille Blanche. The article on the Aiguille Blanche itself was written by "someone" and there's some excellent picture, including one of the Freney traverse.
In any case - ask to Armando at the Monzino, he must know, he's in charge of the area now!
>
> Out of interest, do you still think it takes 7hrs to get across to the w face of the noire? Looked a great adventure-just a "little" bit too long for me at the moment and 5hrs extra approach wouldn't help!
> Out of interest, do you still think it takes 7hrs to get across to the w face of the noire? Looked a great adventure-just a "little" bit too long for me at the moment and 5hrs extra approach wouldn't help!
Someone climbed "L’equipée des bras cassés" on the W face to Pt. Brendel early this July and they took 2 hours to cross from the Brogliatta (there's a fixed rope now). The glacier is in far better conditions that few years ago, and there's a decent snow cover. HOWEVER crossing to the base of the Ratti-Vitali (the "proper" route on the W face) will definitely take a bit more, let's say three hours. It's a messy place, if you have a chance get the latest issue of Alp "Grandi Montagne" (can be easily found in Courmayeur or Chamonix) it's called "Quota 4000" and devoted to less popular/more difficult 4000, like the Aiguille Blanche. The article on the Aiguille Blanche itself was written by "someone" and there's some excellent picture, including one of the Freney traverse.
In any case - ask to Armando at the Monzino, he must know, he's in charge of the area now!
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Completely forgot to report that on mid July the Eccles huts got cleaned up and repaired, and most of the thrash taken down by Courma guides. Apologies!
>
> This may be a good occasion to remark that the Eccles huts got some trouble too - as checked by a UKC member, the Crippa hut (lower one) is quite dirty, and the upper one (Lampugnani) got damaged by snow/ice and is in a sorry state. I've alerted the owners (CAI), I'll keep you posted.
> This may be a good occasion to remark that the Eccles huts got some trouble too - as checked by a UKC member, the Crippa hut (lower one) is quite dirty, and the upper one (Lampugnani) got damaged by snow/ice and is in a sorry state. I've alerted the owners (CAI), I'll keep you posted.
Completely forgot to report that on mid July the Eccles huts got cleaned up and repaired, and most of the thrash taken down by Courma guides. Apologies!
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Luca, thanks for all info on Italian side which encouraged me to spent 6 nights last week in Dalmazzi and Monzino huts and had fantastic time ( and great weather).
Dalmazzi for 4 nights, highlight was the Preuss ridge on aiguille savoie. no one else in the whole Triolet basin, 8 hrs of hugely entertaining ridge climbing, mostly great rock, with a few thought provoking 4+ steep sections that felt harder than the 6a of the previous days. Of the many equipped climbs bolted climbs, favourite was Profumo Proibito, great situation, 7 sustained pitches of 5+/6a up a great piece of rock, the long third pitch up a neverending crack was best of the week.
Also stayed at the refurbished refugio monzino for two nights last week. Absolutely best hut i've been to, stupendous views of aiguille noire and mt blanc, fabulous food with choice(best carbonara that I've ever had), good bar, not busy, comfortable bunk beds with lots of room, friendly guardian and family. Only 2 people stayed at hut on first night suggesting it has been a bit forgotten.
Did ottoz-hurzeler on aiguille croux, fantastic steep 5+ route and had the whole area to ourselves.
Wouldn't have gone to Italy if I hadn't read all your info. Thanks again.
Luca, thanks for all info on Italian side which encouraged me to spent 6 nights last week in Dalmazzi and Monzino huts and had fantastic time ( and great weather).
Dalmazzi for 4 nights, highlight was the Preuss ridge on aiguille savoie. no one else in the whole Triolet basin, 8 hrs of hugely entertaining ridge climbing, mostly great rock, with a few thought provoking 4+ steep sections that felt harder than the 6a of the previous days. Of the many equipped climbs bolted climbs, favourite was Profumo Proibito, great situation, 7 sustained pitches of 5+/6a up a great piece of rock, the long third pitch up a neverending crack was best of the week.
Also stayed at the refurbished refugio monzino for two nights last week. Absolutely best hut i've been to, stupendous views of aiguille noire and mt blanc, fabulous food with choice(best carbonara that I've ever had), good bar, not busy, comfortable bunk beds with lots of room, friendly guardian and family. Only 2 people stayed at hut on first night suggesting it has been a bit forgotten.
Did ottoz-hurzeler on aiguille croux, fantastic steep 5+ route and had the whole area to ourselves.
Wouldn't have gone to Italy if I hadn't read all your info. Thanks again.
In reply to James W:
Great to hear you enjoyed it! And thanks for letting me know, I really appreciate it.
It's definitely no Cosmiques or Gouter, but this is a plus in my book.
I believe there are huge plans on part of the owners (the Coumayeur guides company) to re-launch it as a sort of "high altitude" climbing school. However, i think this first season with Armando as a the new warden was a success.
> Luca, thanks for all info on Italian side which encouraged me to spent 6 nights last week in Dalmazzi and Monzino huts and had fantastic time ( and great weather).
Great to hear you enjoyed it! And thanks for letting me know, I really appreciate it.
> Only 2 people stayed at hut on first night suggesting it has been a bit forgotten.
It's definitely no Cosmiques or Gouter, but this is a plus in my book.
I believe there are huge plans on part of the owners (the Coumayeur guides company) to re-launch it as a sort of "high altitude" climbing school. However, i think this first season with Armando as a the new warden was a success.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Well done them! That is a sound and selfless effort on their part.
It certainly was in quite a state when I was there toward the end of May. There really ought to be a way for British climbers to contribute to looking after these sorts of remote huts in the Alps, it is a pretty thankless task for the relevant Alpine clubs and their members - certainly not "their job". Unfortunately the idea that climbers in remote, difficult of access areas can be relied on to treat the mountains with respect is just not true.
> Completely forgot to report that on mid July the Eccles huts got cleaned up and repaired, and most of the thrash taken down by Courma guides. Apologies!
Well done them! That is a sound and selfless effort on their part.
It certainly was in quite a state when I was there toward the end of May. There really ought to be a way for British climbers to contribute to looking after these sorts of remote huts in the Alps, it is a pretty thankless task for the relevant Alpine clubs and their members - certainly not "their job". Unfortunately the idea that climbers in remote, difficult of access areas can be relied on to treat the mountains with respect is just not true.
In reply to Simon4:
I believe there are few simple rules that can help a lot on keeping those shelters usable and safe:
1) Very important - remember to close all doors and windows when you leave. The effect of snow/rain/wind into the hut may be extremely destructive, particularly in winter.
2) Try to remove your litter in the limit of what's reasonable.
3) IF you notice anything wrong with the hut, inform the guides bureau in Courmayeur. They will definitely try to fix the problem.
>
> There really ought to be a way for British climbers to contribute to looking after these sorts of remote huts in the Alps, it is a pretty thankless task for the relevant Alpine clubs and their members - certainly not "their job". Unfortunately the idea that climbers in remote, difficult of access areas can be relied on to treat the mountains with respect is just not true.
> There really ought to be a way for British climbers to contribute to looking after these sorts of remote huts in the Alps, it is a pretty thankless task for the relevant Alpine clubs and their members - certainly not "their job". Unfortunately the idea that climbers in remote, difficult of access areas can be relied on to treat the mountains with respect is just not true.
I believe there are few simple rules that can help a lot on keeping those shelters usable and safe:
1) Very important - remember to close all doors and windows when you leave. The effect of snow/rain/wind into the hut may be extremely destructive, particularly in winter.
2) Try to remove your litter in the limit of what's reasonable.
3) IF you notice anything wrong with the hut, inform the guides bureau in Courmayeur. They will definitely try to fix the problem.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
It has nothing to do with the Mt. Blanc area, but I believe this may interest any of you still around in the NW Alps:
In the last 24 hours there's been some serious landslides close the Vittorio Emanuele Hut (2732m) on the normal route to Gran Paradiso. The old hut seems to is under some threat by future falling rocks, so almost certainly will be closed.
The "new", bigger (and uglier!) hut seems relatively safe by now, but the entire area around the lake nearby considered dangerous. So evern if you're passing by please take care.
It has nothing to do with the Mt. Blanc area, but I believe this may interest any of you still around in the NW Alps:
In the last 24 hours there's been some serious landslides close the Vittorio Emanuele Hut (2732m) on the normal route to Gran Paradiso. The old hut seems to is under some threat by future falling rocks, so almost certainly will be closed.
The "new", bigger (and uglier!) hut seems relatively safe by now, but the entire area around the lake nearby considered dangerous. So evern if you're passing by please take care.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
Thanks for the info - I am heading up there this weekend (booked into the ugly hut!)
Thanks for the info - I am heading up there this weekend (booked into the ugly hut!)
In reply to SiWood:
I think you may be better calling before going there, as I'm not really sure if they will not simply close the area - seems like something big came down.
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli)
>
> Thanks for the info - I am heading up there this weekend (booked into the ugly hut!)
>
> Thanks for the info - I am heading up there this weekend (booked into the ugly hut!)
I think you may be better calling before going there, as I'm not really sure if they will not simply close the area - seems like something big came down.
In reply to Luca Signorelli: Of no use now, but how did accommodation work at the old hut. Was it manned like the new hut or arranged as bivouac on a first come, first served basis?
In reply to MG:
Works as a winter hut, or as a emergency hut when the "big one" is closed.
When the new hut is open w/ warden, the old one is used to accomodate people that can't be put in the other one.
Last minute update - old hut closed, new hut still open, as it looks like is not going to be affected by any future rockfall.
> (In reply to Luca Signorelli) Of no use now, but how did accommodation work at the old hut. Was it manned like the new hut or arranged as bivouac on a first come, first served basis?
Works as a winter hut, or as a emergency hut when the "big one" is closed.
When the new hut is open w/ warden, the old one is used to accomodate people that can't be put in the other one.
Last minute update - old hut closed, new hut still open, as it looks like is not going to be affected by any future rockfall.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
In case anyone is still somewhere in the area:
The wardens of the Borelli hut (at the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey) are leaving today for the valley. The hut remains open and can be used, but is unguarded.
In case anyone is still somewhere in the area:
The wardens of the Borelli hut (at the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey) are leaving today for the valley. The hut remains open and can be used, but is unguarded.
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
can you send me any info about the route to the bivacco jachia from tronchey or pra sec?
can you send me any info about the route to the bivacco jachia from tronchey or pra sec?
In reply to Luca Signorelli:
It's almost certainly one of the signs of the coming of the Apocalypse (so expect locusts raining, trumpets blasting, horsemen riding, seals breaking, the Cosmiques warden setting sensible prices for drinks etc) but the Courmayeur Guides, via the website of Fondazione Montagna Sicura (Courmayeur's version of the OHM) have put a page of information on the huts of the MB area. Check it out before someone decides they're giving away too many info to bloody foreigners!
http://www.fondazionemontagnasicura.org/informazioni-rifugi.aspx
It's almost certainly one of the signs of the coming of the Apocalypse (so expect locusts raining, trumpets blasting, horsemen riding, seals breaking, the Cosmiques warden setting sensible prices for drinks etc) but the Courmayeur Guides, via the website of Fondazione Montagna Sicura (Courmayeur's version of the OHM) have put a page of information on the huts of the MB area. Check it out before someone decides they're giving away too many info to bloody foreigners!
http://www.fondazionemontagnasicura.org/informazioni-rifugi.aspx
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