In reply to joebepi:
Hi I came back from lofoten 3 weeks ago after spending 3 weeks there without a car and its fine!
You have to be willing to do a bit of hiking with big bags, we were carrying 25kg+++ on our backs as had tents, food, climbing kit etc. but we managed to spend a week on moskenes then catch the bus up to dupsfjord, spend a week camped on the freshwater fjord there before finding a free mtn hut for 2 nites by kabelvag.
It only takes about an hr to walk from dupsfjord to henningsvaer and all the crags are roadside on the way. The buses are daily, there are ferries to take you to many of the fjords on moskenesoy island. Paradiset is less than an hr walk on a road from the bus stop. And the bus is pretty cheap. We spent £200 each for 3 weeks there, had only 4 days of rain, and all in all it was amazing!!
Anyway let me know if you need any advice.
siobhan