UKC

The Old Brenva Route suffered from a big rockfall (1999?) which wiped out the first section. For a while the only option was the Gussfeldt Couloir, but I hear rumours of the lower rock ridge being climbed again. Anybody done this? Beta please.

In reply to Fredt:

Luca put up something last year about it, do a search for his name then his threads. Seem to remember everything but the Pear is now doable without too much risk of dying.

In reply to Fredt:

The original route can be done with decent, compact snow conditions, but as far as I know all the team who have repeated the line this summer did it via the Gussfeldt couloir (who's in decent nick). The exit seracs are ok too, but the slopes to the right looks - and are reported - as a bit scary...


Well, the Red Sentinel is still quite dangerous because of the seracs above, the Pear is deadly (as usual - no relation with the 1996 rockfall), the only route of the "triptych" that's - rarely being done again after a long iatus is the Major (but the traverse from Col Moore to the Sentinel is different than it used to be).