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How to fix ciezed cams after fun at Gogarth

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 Protheroe 18 Nov 2008
I was at Gogarth on saturday, got hit by a phew waves, after I was back home going through my gear and my cams are all ciezed up and fecked. What should I use
 JSA 18 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe:

WD40 does the trick
In reply to Protheroe: never happened to me, im too poor for cams! but i hear WD40 is good. give 'em a rinse in tap water then let them dry well first to get the salt off too
OP Protheroe 18 Nov 2008
Fantastic, thank you, I thought WD40 would work, I just didn't want to risk it
 TobyA 18 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe: Wash them first, often that is enough. But WD40 helps after they've dried.
 John Ww 18 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe:
> got hit by a phew waves, and my cams are all ciezed up and fecked. What should I use?

A dictionary?

In reply to John Ww:

i'm surprised tony the blade in his "tony the pedant" incarnation hadnt picked these up already...



gregor
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs: patience young jedi
 kareylarey 18 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe: That happened to me. I had to bite my cams to cam them, put them in the placement then try to fiddle them open with my fingers.
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 18 Nov 2008
In reply to John Ww:
> (In reply to Protheroe)
> [...]
>
> A dictionary?

I thought maybe he had impounded them from someone?


Chris
 climbingpixie 18 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe:

If rinsing them and using WD40 doesn't work you could try using a penetrating lube (ooh er missus) to unstick them.
 Niall 18 Nov 2008
In reply to John Ww:
> (In reply to Protheroe)
> [...]
>
> A dictionary?

No, it was a very impressive wave
In reply to climbingpixie:

Remember folks that WD-40 stands for Water Dispersant 40th formula and was designed to prevent corrosion rather than provide lubrication.

Basic post sea-cliff cleaning technique:

- wash in mild soapy water and rinse with hot water, use an old toothbrush to work on the more inaccessible parts.
- remove as much surface water as possible with a dry rag
- spray with WD-40 (spray the whole device not just moving parts) leave for a while then wipe down with a rag. This more to prevent corrosion of the metal rather than lubricating the mechanics.
- leave to dry
- apply light lubricant, bike chain lube is suitable, while working the device

If your cams are really dirty then clean with a mild degreaser solution rather than soapy water. This gets rid of *all* lubricants so the latter steps are even more important.

ALC
 Swig 19 Nov 2008
In reply to a lakeland climber:

It does lubricate though.

http://www.wd40.com/faqs/#q7

I've never applied a second lubricant when dealing with cams after sea cliff exposure.

 Tree 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe: At the risk of getting slammed again, avoid WD40- it definitely attracts dirt, and although I can't prove it, many industries avoid it as it damages some metals. WD40 don't recommend using it on climbing gear, nor do Metolius!
 jkarran 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe:

I use WD40 to clean and free off sticky cams. I then wash it off with scalding hot water. Residual WD40 on clean axels is enough lubrication to keep them working for ages.

Personally I don't worry about WD40 attacking metal. Salt genuinely will attack the metal and I have to say, even that comes pretty low on my list of worries.

Wash them, free them up then wash them again and they'll be like new.

jk
 mux 19 Nov 2008
In reply to jkarran: Having been short of WD40 I used Rape seed oil this worked .....for about a week ...

I am now off to the shop for some WD ...

 petellis 19 Nov 2008
In reply to mux:
> (In reply to jkarran) Having been short of WD40 I used Rape seed oil this worked .....for about a week ...
>
> I am now off to the shop for some WD ...


hehe - I once accidentally used fig-rolls to lube one of my cams, as you can imagine it didn't work.
 Chris F 19 Nov 2008
In reply to petellis: In times of emergency I can confirm that Avon skin so soft works too. Stops midgies biting your cams too.

If all the above fails I can recommend a vice and gentle taps with a lump hammer.
 Coel Hellier 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Tree:

> At the risk of getting slammed again, avoid WD40- it definitely attracts dirt,

So do all lubricants really.

> and although I can't prove it, many industries avoid it as it damages some metals.

So you're repeating your utterly unfounded claims which you are utterly unable to substantiate? You are being irresponsible.

> WD40 don't recommend using it on climbing gear,

Err so? They recommend it generally for metals. They don't necessarily list every individual recommended use.

> nor do Metolius!

But Wild Country do. Metolius make other recommendantions because they consider that other lubes attract less dirt that WD40; it seems to me that any difference between lubes on that score is pretty minimal.
 mux 19 Nov 2008
In reply to petellis: Now do like a good fig roll ...but I have always limmited them to tea dunking and snaffling.

Maybe I should think outside the box a little more.
 Tree 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Coel Hellier: I know, just thought I would bait the hook for you!
andywebster 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe:

WD40 didnt work for me

use cam lube, its expensive but it does the trick. i think its a wax disolved in a solvent so penatrates better than WD40.

just put on a few drops and using two adjustable spanners so you can work the individual cams loose


problem solved
 Alex C 19 Nov 2008
Where oh where does this "WD40 doesn't lubricate" rubbish come from? Yes it does - have you ever used it? Water lubricates too, but WD40 lasts a lot longer. Yes it attracts dirt but so does any other oil or grease you might choose to put on your cams.

Wild Country explicitly advocate the use of WD40 for cleaning cams (they also clearly state it does not affect the slings).

 petellis 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Alex C:

aye - its a bit of a "ere we go, ere we go, ere we go! thread....

I'd argue that a clean cam doesn't actually need lubricating at all since the metal parts will be moving over each other about 10 time a month in most cases and they're both smooth machined surfaces.
 Coel Hellier 19 Nov 2008
In reply to petellis:

> I'd argue that a clean cam doesn't actually need lubricating at all since the metal parts
> will be moving over each other about 10 time a month in most cases and they're both smooth machined surfaces.

So long as the action feels "springy"! The camming action does depend on the spring pushing the cams outwards, so ensure that it is free and lubricated enough that it does.
 petellis 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Coel Hellier:
> The camming action does depend on the spring pushing the cams outwards,

does it really?! i'd never have known that if you hadn't told me!

although to be even more pedantic the springs only set the cam - once its wheighted its the camming action that pushes the cams against the rock, not the springs....

 Chris F 19 Nov 2008
In reply to petellis: Apart from in horizontal placements.
 petellis 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Chris F:

I don't understand? You'd have to explain this one to me.
 Coel Hellier 19 Nov 2008
In reply to petellis:

> does it really?! i'd never have known that if you hadn't told me!

You and most readers would indeed, but a lot of newbies read these forums also. If someone posts "you don't need lubricant" it's surely sense to point out that you do need to ensure the cams are "springy".
 petellis 19 Nov 2008
In reply to Coel Hellier:
> (In reply to petellis)
>
> [...]
>
> "you don't need lubricant"


.... <insert your smutty commments here>.....

 Chris F 20 Nov 2008
In reply to petellis: If you place a cam in a horizontal placement you still rely on the springs, not the camming action, to hold it in place, unless it is an absolutely ideal placement.
 Horse 20 Nov 2008
In reply to Protheroe:

Don't panic get a copy of this:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=255

Retire to the garage/shed with essential equipment and treat your cams to a bit of TLC.

 petellis 20 Nov 2008
In reply to Chris F:


Sorry Chris, just being a pedantic for no reason - we're in agreement really. I'd say unless it was weighted (properly e.g. by the climber) it's the springs that hold it in place (regardless of how its placed (except for passive placements))...

I'm prahaps over estimating the intelligence of the average novice climber becase I'd have thought that this was blindingly obvious just from looking at it
 Chris F 20 Nov 2008
In reply to petellis: Nothing is foolproof to a sufficiently talented fool
OP Protheroe 21 Nov 2008
I know I can't spell, but I don't really care.

Thank you for everyones usefull advice

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