UKC

i just finished reading psychovertical by andy kirkpatrick

setting aside whatever i might say about the book or AP, one thing stuck out - after coming off one of his attempts at Fitzroy he states he didnt have a compass.

being an armchair mountaineer in some respects, i've read quite a few accounts of high mountain expeditions and for all the epics i cant remember hearing much about compass work. its often been in the back of my mind "god, in a whiteout like that, how did they pick the right way down / out / off !"

i've just thought that with such interesting other, usually overwhelming things to write about, its gone by the board in the editing or writing process. theres usually a mention of two of basic, unreliable maps, because of uncharted areas.

whats the reality ? taken but never mentioned or not ? i'd be interested to hear from people who've had the experience.

ahunter

In reply to andy hunter: IMO Basics of navigation, including use of compass and ability to estimate distance travelled are essential. Maybe only used occasionally (bad weather) but...

He probably had a satnav?...but batteries/malfunction...

In reply to andy hunter: The steeper your descent the less useful a compass becomes, and the more useful an altimeter. If you're abbing a couloir then which way to go is obvious, but your height might not be. 2D but a different 2D to walking around on the flat.

So perhaps it's the first thing to get left behind by some people on some routes. I'm sure he takes one for getting off flat Scottish summits!

In reply to andy hunter: A compass is next to useless on a heavily crevassed glacier in extremely low/zero visibility. Basically it's not possible to follow a bearing if you're continually having to adjust & re-route your course to avoid crevasses if you don't have a point on the hoizon with which to use as your bearing.

In reply to Frank4short:

It still gives you an overall check on direction though, which is better than becoming completely disorientated.

In reply to andy hunter: I ALWAYS carry a map and compass but having said that I can't remember ever having to use the the compass while climbing in the Alps. Perhaps I've been lucky but I tend to stay in the valley if the forecast is "iffy". The paths to huts are usually well marked and the routes themselves are, in general, well defined.

Al

In reply to andy hunter:

Having read the book, what we consider to be the usual levels of contingency and safety don't apply here. I would imagine they were happy enough to play it by ear.