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Recommend me a waterproof belay jacket

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I'm looking for a lightweight jacket/smock type thing that packs up dead small and is good for a nice warm belay jacket when it's windy and which is also waterproof - or at least showerproof. Preferably zip up. Must have hood. I'm a bird, by the way.

Any recommendations?
J1234 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore:
I rate my Fuera Smock, but warm would only come as part of a layering system.
 gear boy 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore: nicest one i saw over the winter was actually a tnf onsight jacket, lightweight taped outer and primaloft lining, dont know if it was made in a ladies version though, alternatives are the standard coated outers so showerproof, like ME alpamayo jkt

hth
 Guy Hurst 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore: What conditions do you reckon you'll use it in? I reckon synthetic fill ones are better in the UK, cos they still provide a fair bit of insulation when wet, and most have a water repellent finish anyhow that'll stand up to a pretty heavy shower. Perhaps something like the Rab Photon Hoodie for a pretty warm synthetic jacket with hood, or a Rab Generator/Berghaus Ignite if you don't need a hood. If you run a bit cold or aim to do Scottish winter stuff then maybe a Mountain Equipment Fitzroy, or, for really gnarly stuff, a Berghaus Combust or Patagonia Das Parka.
Down jackets don't cope well with wet, so I'd more or less discount them unless you're prepared to pay really serious money for a fully waterproof one.
In reply to Ava Adore:

I'm not thinking particularly gnarly weather - just that extra bit of insulation against the wind whistling at the top of Stanage.
 Guy Hurst 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore: Rab Photon Hoodie then. I think they do a women's version, but you'll have to check.
 GrahamD 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore:

If Stanage is all you are worried about, I paid £5 for a synthetic 'puffa' jacket from Peacocks.
In reply to GrahamD:

But I want something that packs down real small
In reply to Guy Hurst:

Guy, thanks. There is indeed a women's version and I like the look of it. Does anyone have any experience of how waterproof it is? I realise it isn't sold as a waterproof but suspect it would probably be showerproof even if it doesn't say so. Anyone?

Thanks for all the suggestions, by the way.
 GrahamD 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore:

Why ? for Stanage I mean ? There is a lot to be said for cheap and cheerful for everyday cragging and saving your decent stuff for when you actually need it.
 davidwright 19 May 2009
In reply to GrahamD:
> (In reply to Ava Adore)
>
> Why ? for Stanage I mean ? There is a lot to be said for cheap and cheerful for everyday cragging and saving your decent stuff for when you actually need it.

Because if it isn't small you won't clip it to your harness and therefore it won't be with you when you really really need it.
In reply to GrahamD:

It won't JUST be used for Stanage. That was an example to show the kind of climate I'm thinking of! Also multipitch stuff in Lundy, Wales, the Lakes etc.

And because I WANT one that packs up small.
In reply to davidwright:
> (In reply to GrahamD)
> [...]
>
> Because if it isn't small you won't clip it to your harness and therefore it won't be with you when you really really need it.

Spot on...!
 davidwright 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore:
> I'm looking for a lightweight jacket/smock type thing that packs up dead small and is good for a nice warm belay jacket when it's windy and which is also waterproof - or at least showerproof. Preferably zip up. Must have hood. I'm a bird, by the way.
>
> Any recommendations?

If your looking for something for a day when what you are climbing in would be ok but for the wind on the crag top you could do a lot worse than the montane lightweight windproofs. They make a really big difference if it is just the wind.

If its a 'proper' belay jacket your after then the Rab Photon is good and packs smaller than the alternatives.
 GrahamD 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore:

For clipping onto the harness, I use a Needlesports Pertex top. It will pull over the top of a helmet and with hood up makes a huge difference to how warm I am. Anything with insulation doesn't pack down as small or as light so doesn't make it onto the route 'in case'.
 Guy Hurst 19 May 2009
In reply to Ava Adore: The Photon Hoodie is pretty water resistant -- it'll certainly keep the rain out for an hour or so, and still gives a bit of warmth even when it does wet out.
In reply to Ava Adore:

> Because if it isn't small you won't clip it to your harness and therefore it won't be with you when you really really need it.

> And because I WANT one that packs up small.

Belay jackets (i.e. down or synthetic duvet jackets) are never going to pack down so small that they'll fit on your harness (I know it was David Wright that mentioned the harness).

Which makes me wonder if you're really after an insulated item, or simply a windshirt (e.g. Montane W's Litespeed jacket). A windshirt will certainly make a difference if all you're wearing is a normal fleece. And it will pack down a lot smaller than a chalk bag.

Likewise, anything that is waterproof is likely to be relatively bulky.

If you want something that will pack down small enough to go into a small MTB hydration pack, then look for something filled with 60g Primaloft One; I've got an old Montane Solo that I take skiing in this way. It's not waterproof, though.

You might find some interesting suggestions here:

http://www.outdoorsmagic.com/forum/forummessages/mps/dt/1/UTN/29495/last/1/...

Or look at Rab VR Trail or Marmot DriClime shelled micropile items; lightly insulated windshirts.

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