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Mountaineering in New Zealand

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 snakebite 29 May 2009
I'm planning an extended trip to new zealand at the end of the year and am planning to do some mountaineering out in any of the mounatains on North/South island.
Has anyone been? Can you recommend any routes/peaks/places to find partners/transport ideas/gear to take or buy out there etc.

Much appreciated
 radson 30 May 2009
In reply to snakebite:

have a chat with the very friendly people at www.mountainz.co.nz.

to get some ideas of climbs you may also want to check out the pics/route descriptions at

alpineguides.co.nz
aspiringguides.com
adventureconsultants.co.nz
alpinerecreation.co.nz (great pics)

cosleyhouston.com also has some great pics
 mathquirk 30 May 2009
In reply to snakebite: Go south for sure - lots of fantastic climbing to be had. Wanaka is a good base for peaks in the Aspiring Park including some of the more moderate summit routes.

Mount Cook region is where you'll find the concentration of big and generally more committing routes, and the most other climbers to hook up with (Unwin Hut is the Alpine Club base hut in Mount Cook Village).

Coming in from the West Coast either by heli or a long rough walk-in will give you a real adventure, and maybe a hot pool to unwind in if you're lucky!

Fiordland and the Darrans for true wilderness. Although climbing pretty much any peak in NZ is a mini (or not so mini) expedition due to the long valley walk-ins, simple huts - just bunks, maybe the odd pot and pan (or no huts) and lack of infrastructure. Basically you need to be pretty self-sufficient and cell phone coverage is minimal in the mountains of the south. That said, all of these things are kind of what makes it so special. No lifts, cafes on the mountains, and usually the place to yourself. Meeting other climbers on a route is often a cause for celebration and a chat as it's pretty rare most places!

Hitching is pretty easy in the south, otherwise cheap shuttle buses abound, but there aren't that many roads in the south and many climbing areas walk-ins begin at the end of long valley dirt roads, so wheels could be handy. Mount cook, you can pretty much base yourself in the village though and access from there.

Most gear is similar price to Europe apart from boots and rock shoes which are a lot more expensive.

http://alpineclub.org.nz/ for some general info.

Enjoy!
sankster 30 May 2009
In reply to snakebite:
New-Zealand is amazing, you'll love it. I've been twice and am now emmigrating there in August! Am going for the mountaineering really, although have not done any there yet, just some ice-climbing and snow-boarding. If you still need any tips/advice or a partner do look me up later in the year, hopefully I'll have some mountain routes under my belt by then!
Good luck x
 Jamie Hageman 30 May 2009
In reply to snakebite: For info on mountaineering objectives, you could get yourself the NZ Alpine Club guides to Aspiring / Cook areas - fantastic books with history as well as all the routes detailed. Moir's Guides North and South are good too, and include some of the ranges you wouldn't immediately head for. I often spend a quiet afternoon with my NZ guides and maps, dreaming of my next visit (hopefully Christmas)

Have fun!
 KiwiPrincess 31 May 2009
In reply to snakebite:
Good advice re the alpine club guides. Join the alpine club There are lots of trip and events, a magazine every quarter, and you get discounts on Books and Huts.
Mountainz is also a good idea.
North island is a winter only location.

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