UKC

QDs: Which end has the rubber retainer

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Good evening all,

I note from the DMM website:

http://www.dmmclimbing.com/products.asp?pid=2

"All our dyneema quickdraws have a ribbed rubber retainer sewn into the rope end of the quickdraw to help hold the carabiner in the correct position"

I then note from the Wild Country website:

http://www.wildcountry.co.uk/Products/Karabiners/Helium/

"Like all Wild Country quickdraws the clip-end is marked by red anodising to make sure you keep any bolt damage away from the rope and there is also a rubber 'O' ring to hold the clip end biner in place"

So which is it? I currently mainly use DMM QDs (Spectres or Phantoms I forget which).

As an aside, it's always struck me as strange that WC state use red for the clip end. I would have thought that a more logical system would be RED crab for ROPE and metal colour crab to metal clip.

RPG
qwerty 17 Jun 2009
> I then note from the Wild Country website:
>
> "Like all Wild Country quickdraws the clip-end is marked by red anodising to make sure you keep any bolt damage away from the rope and there is also a rubber 'O' ring to hold the clip end biner in place"

By 'clip end' they mean *rope* end. That is, DMM and WC agree: the rubber ring is always at the rope end.

And for the WC quickdraws, it indeed is 'R for Rope; Blue for Bolt'.
 lithos 17 Jun 2009
In reply to Richard Gilbert:

retainer on rope end so sling can rotate on gear krab and siad krab stays
aligned properly (verical not cross loaded)

and i use red for rope for krabs,
qwerty 17 Jun 2009
I wrote:

> 'R for Rope; Blue for Bolt'.

I *meant* to write:

'Red for Rope; Blue for Bolt'.
In reply to qwerty:

Makes more sense that way for sure but why say "clip end" rather than "rope end" if that's what they mean?

The former is hugely ambiguous.
qwerty 17 Jun 2009
In reply to Richard Gilbert:

> but why say "clip end" rather than "rope end" if that's what they mean?

Because it's the end you clip the rope into when, for example, you're climbing a route on which the quickdraws are already in place.

I agree it's ambiguous, but that's what they mean.
qwerty 17 Jun 2009
In reply to Richard Gilbert:

By the way, from the same WC website:

"Quickdraws

"The QD is the backbone of the modern rock climbing rack and Wild Country is proud to offer a wide selection of off the peg units to suit all purposes and pockets.
"All Wild Country quickdraws are anodised and for safety they are also 'rope end indentified' i.e. the red one is meant to always take the rope."
In reply to qwerty:

Thank you very much.

Alles klar!

RPG

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