UKC

When I looked at a bunch of IMPs they just didn't go as small as RPs do. Now I know alot of people are like IMP/RPs but RPs go so much smaller. You'd be better off ordering some RPs from Australia or getting some BD microstoppers (originally swedges).

If you need really small micro wires then IMPs just don't seem that small.

Rant over.

In reply to mlmatt: just got mine and i would not want to fall on anything smaller than the #1. its titchy!!!! actually i wouldnt want to fall on the #1....

In reply to pebbles:

I know RPs are small, but something is better than nothing.

In reply to mlmatt:

There is a lot of incorrect information flying around this thread so I will try and clarify matters.

IMPs in sizes 1, 2, 3 and 5 are very similar in size to the RP's of the same size. The size 4 IMP is slightly different than the RP 4, but sits perfectly between the IMPs 3 and 5 in terms of overlaps and ratios.

There is an RP 0 and DMM cover this size with the HB Brass 0 - our evaluations showed that in this size of nut a slight taper on the head generally allowed better placements - hence we went with the HB offset profile.

Regards

Simon Marsh

DMM

In reply to Simon Marsh: Is there an echo in here?

In reply to mlmatt: How many times have you placed an RP 0 for free climbing?!!

I never have! In fact when I ordered my last set of RPs from Australia a few years ago, I didn't bother with the 1 or the 0 as they are just too small to bother with IMO.

So now having all the sizes from 1 upward available in the UK seems pretty good to me.

Plus it seems you can get something similar to the 0 in the offset size according to Simon Marsh. So there you go.

Jack

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

When you orderd RP's from australia, witch shop did order from?

In reply to jon: and with a single photo my confidence in RPs soars

In reply to pebbles:

1984 I took about 4 or 5 falls on an RP 0 trying a first ascent of a "trad" slate route.

But I did weigh 11 stone and not the 15 stone I do now!

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:
Isnt the only good placement on Flashdance an RP 1? or is it 2? Either way my mates lobbed onto that and it happily held!! Theyre worth having man!!

what about HB offset brassies in all the sizes?????? singly the best pro for pin scars. Come on DMM.

In reply to Ghastly Rubberfeet:i'm the same when 25 was pushing my grades up to E4/5 now time and tide has increased my body mass off loaded all my small brass on fleabay, when young and bold trusted the slightest bit of pro, now i'm just bold and need the biggest bit pro i can get in

In reply to stizzy:
I know exactly what you mean.

However that distant memory of youth has meant I've still got small wires on my rack.

I suppose they'd be good for clipping the rope out of the way on multi-pitch belays!

;~))

In reply to mlmatt:

I know of at least 2 people who have taken 20 foot lobs onto the smallest micros and they both held.

On the second of these falls my regular climbing partner would definatly have decked, so micros and all other suposedly shit pro is always worth placing

In reply to Dominic Green:

Domonic,

You mean these?

http://dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=5&pid2=204"

They are in production now.

Simon

DMM

In reply to jon:

Ha ha, great photo Jon!

You're right, I am a lightweight - that's for sure, but an RP 0 has never instilled much confidence in me! #1 maybe, #2 definitely, and I've lobbed on to a #3 several times, but #0, I can't even see it without my glasses on (I don't even wear glasses!).

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:

I, on the other hand, am not lightweight any more and would certainly break one easily now. I don't know about 3s and 4s - I need 10mms or preferably 12mms nowadays - referably stainless and glued in!

In reply to mlmatt:

Just got both a set of offsets and IMPs and I'm really impressed by the strength rating for the IMPs given the size. The 1 is 4kn! That's not bad for a tiny but of brass. I don't know how this compares to RPs but it's better than the rest of the competition.

I've placed some of the offsets and am REALLY impressed by them.

In reply to maresia: Flippin heck - how long of me crapping on about how useful offsets are did it take>?

In reply to mike kann:

Yeh but I did have to wait until DMM had actually made them!!!!! I ordered them off Dick months ago.

In reply to Jack Geldard - Editor - UKC:


Very similar experience here from a lower grade perspective. I don't carry a #0 and #1 anymore - I just never found I needed them. I was about to say I fell onto a HB #2 on Friday night, but actually I think I got another nut in above it - a Wallnut 2 or something much less noteworthy to lob onto (was really impressing myself making good progress trying a maybe E2-ish route, when I slapped for a jug that turned out not to be a jug at all. Oh well. I'll know better next time).

In reply to TobyA:

The zero RP I fell onto held four or five falls. When it finally failed, it was the rock that had broken, the RP was intact! I was just using this example to show how strong these things are. Therefore, think how strong 1s and 2s ans 3s are. Got to be good rock, though.