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cheap climbing holiday

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 ods 12 Jul 2009
hi me and a friend are wanting to go on a cheap sport climbing holiday somewhere in europe for a week or so! doesnt matter the grade as long as theres a mixture we just would like to climb some nice routes worth doing! so if you guys could help us we would appreciate it. somewhere nice and cheap to go to, with somewhere preferable to camp instead of hostels because they cost (poor students) and somewhere with sun and sport climbing! many thanks and happy climbing
 snoop6060 12 Jul 2009
In reply to ods:

Yorkshire.

Camp at Malham and you can get to alot of crags from there, not to mention malham 15 mins walk away.
 craig d 13 Jul 2009
In reply to snoop6060:

El Chorro. Easy to get to on the train and you can then walk to all the crags. If ur going soon will be hot.

Also ceuse. Great conditions in summer and campsite at bottom of hill.
 Owen W-G 13 Jul 2009
In reply to ods:

Paklenica in Croatia.

Loads of SP bolted stuff in the 5s, 6s and 7s plus some amazing big wall 9 pitch routes on Anuka Kuk at some surprisingly ammenable grades, £1 a pint, as much octopus salad and fruiti de mare pizza/pasta as you can stomach, sun, sea, do some island hopping, DWS on Hvar, check out Debrovnik, Split for nightlife, you can't go wrong!
In reply to ods: Portland

Cheapish camping. Lots of routes from 2 to 8a
In reply to ods: Push the boat out and take cheap flights to Morroco and climb in the todra gorge. Cheap accomodation, all crags in walking distance of accomodation.
 snoop6060 13 Jul 2009
In reply to Owen W-G:
> (In reply to ods)
>
> Paklenica in Croatia.
>
> Loads of SP bolted stuff in the 5s, 6s and 7s plus some amazing big wall 9 pitch routes on Anuka Kuk at some surprisingly ammenable grades, £1 a pint, as much octopus salad and fruiti de mare pizza/pasta as you can stomach, sun, sea, do some island hopping, DWS on Hvar, check out Debrovnik, Split for nightlife, you can't go wrong!


Hi Mate,

Looked at Palenica before booking a trip to kalymnos. How is best to get there? I had a look at some of the longer bolted routes and they pretty amazing.

Last time I went to Croatia think we flew to Zargreb and then used trains and boats, was a bit of a nightmare. Can you fly to split? How are is the climbiing from Split?

 Owen W-G 13 Jul 2009
In reply to snoop6060:

From a previous post...



I went to Croat in Sept 03.

We flew to and from Debrovnik, got a slow boat up to Zadar (via Hvar & Split) then bus to Paklenica. There are no trains. You can hop on/off ferry so had a few days on islands either side of a week climbing.

The bus from Zadar to Pak takes only about 90mins and was easy peasy. Drops off literally at foot at national park. I remember there was a bus there waiting when we got to Zadar bus station (v civilised place), so I assume they are reasonably regular.

There is a town called Starigrad Paklenica. Opposite the entrance to the national park (on the other side of a quiet road) is a campsite, hotel, mini-market, bar, couple of restaurants, tourist info office, petrol station, and a climbing shop selling ropes, and your usual hardware.

Buy the guidebook there (or in the nat park itself) no worries, and probo the most recent edition. We stayed at the campsite and ate at the same 2 little restaurants every night for a week. Only on the last night did we discover that the little hamlet where we were staying in wasn't actually Paklenica town but that the town was 1/2 a mile down the road! If we'd bothered to walk to the edge of the campsite you could see the town! So on the last night we wandered there and discovered bars, a nightclub, big choice of restaurants, shops the lot! We felt mighty dumb thinking our petrol station was the heart of the community! Doh.

Stay at the campsite opposite entrance to nat park, hitch the 2 or 3miles up the hill to where the climbing is (v easy and saves a slog), buy ham and cheese and loaf of bread at the little shop for lunch and eat seafood pasta/£1 a pint beer every night. Brill!

Take one set of nuts, few slings but wouldn't bother with cams, with you as the multipitch routes are a bit runout on the easy sections. The single pitch routes in the gorge are all well bolted.

 Owen W-G 13 Jul 2009
In reply to Owen W-G:

Topos here of the classic MPs, altho guidebook best purchased locaally.

http://www.aozeljeznicar.hr/old/paklenica/routes.htm#medium%20routes
 Bella 16 Jul 2009
In reply to snoop6060: Fly to Zadar then only 1 hour bus ride to Paklenica. The short sport routes are very polished, but the long routes are awesome. Beer is more than £1 a pint now, but still pretty cheap.
herbert 09 Aug 2009
If you want to try the alps I would recommend the east face of Watzmann in Bavaria / Germany. Germany is cheaper to stay at than Austria and the mountaineering there is just amazing: I would recommend the camping site at Ramsau (near Berchtesgaden). Please google it I don't know the name any more.

chears
herbert
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athomas 11 Aug 2009
In reply to Owen W-G: we stayed in an apartment in the village and loved it. it wasnt far from the park entrance and you get the buzz of being in the village with all the amenities. robin and wend look after the place and keep it spot on - highly recommend it. we found it at croatiabreak.com

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