UKC

I'm just starting out rock climbing and bouldering and I am looking to buy my first pair of shoes. I want to get either the Evolv Elektra shoe or the Evolv Rockstar (mainly as I am vegan) but I'm not sure which one would be better. I have also been told that lace-up shoes (like the rockstar) can be better than velcro shoes (like the Elektra) as they can be tied up tighter and provide more support to the foot. I was just wondering if this was true and if any one who has either of these shoes could give me any advice or point me in the right direction! Thanks for your help x

In reply to tippi666:

I have had two pairs of Evolv Elektra now and have been very happy with them.

In reply to tippi666: Have you tried them on? If not, go and do that before you even think about any of the other factors - the shape of them is not quite the same so you might find one fits you better than the other.

As to whether to go with laces or velcro, if you are going to wear your rockshoes with your toes flat inside them (rather than wearing the shoe so tightly that it forces them to curl / bunch up a load) then laces make more sense for that kind of fit. With velcro shoes the fastening doesn't hold them onto your foot as well (as laces) so you are more dependent on a tighter fit (which your average beginner tends not to like?) to keep them held in place. If you try and wear a velcro in a more relaxed style they can get a bit sloppy feeling later in their life, whereas laces will lock the shoe onto your foot a bit better.

The only real advantage of velcro is the obvious one of convenience on and off (good if you wear your shoes super tight) so if you are being adventurous with your sizing and going snug, maybe electras, otherwise I think (assuming fit is OK for you) I'd suggest Rockstars.

In reply to neil the weak: I have the evolv heras which are also a velcro model and really like them. I find them a bit more easily adjustable to the shape of my feet than laces - you can do one strap up more loosely than the other, which is great if your feet are broad at the toes!!! plus it is really easy to loosen them between routes for comfort then do them up really tightly for a lead...

In reply to tippi666:

Sorry, but the simple (and only usefull) answer is the one which fits your feet the best.

Buying rockshoes isn't like buying trainers, each model has a unique fit and the job of an experienced shoe fitter is to match your feet to the best fitting climbing shoe for YOUR feet. If you insist on vegan shoes this will limit your choice considerably, but even so try on as many models as possible and make your choice based on fit. Oh also I think Mad Rock used to do some vegan shoes, so they might be worth a look too.

In reply to Jenny C:

Agree totally.

A number of 5.10's shoes are also vegan including the anasazi range - google for 'Cowdura'

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Are you sure of that? Cowdura is vegan but I was under the impression that the glue used to stick the shoes together wasn't - I may well be wrong on that though.

In reply to Jenny C:

Whoops, I'm not sure. Certainly if you google for 'five ten vegan' you get lots of hits, which suggests that it has been advertised as such in the past. A vegan mate of mine used to wear Anasazi's but has since switched to Evolv's on the basis of fit (I think)

In reply to tippi666: Either is an ideal choice for someone starting out and I sell a fair number of both.

Like any rock shoe, they can never suit ALL climbers, only a proportion with a foot shape that is compatible with their last. The good news is the standard Evolvs last seem to suit at least 7 out of 10 people.

The only way ahead is to try both on. If the fit of both is good (but not perfect) but still better than other brands then the lace-ups may be the better bet. However, you should always buy whatever fits your foot best.