UKC

reverso

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 John Berry 01 Sep 2009
What a wonderful piece of kit!
figured out a way to top rope solo with one.
then read about how to lead solo with one' just tried that out to day,it worked great worked out how to bottom top rope self belay at the same time.
any more uses?
 steveshaking 01 Sep 2009
In reply to John Berry:
How? Do you have any links to these techniques?
Steve
 sdi 01 Sep 2009
In reply to John Berry:

It works really well for lead soloing actually, until you fall off and can't unjam the rope. The family having a picnic next to the tree I got stuck hanging from had hours of free amusement...
qwerty 02 Sep 2009
OP John Berry 02 Sep 2009
queequeg's link is the one I followed for lead solo
for top roped solo I hung the reverso at the top of the pitch with the rope through it yo-yo fashion as per self locking description on the petzl web site simply atach to one end and keep pulling slack through on the other. If you cant make the topout self rescue is easy with a prussic loop or jammer then abseil the double rope.
 steveshaking 03 Sep 2009
In reply to John Berry: OK, thanks for that, there was me thinking top roped soloing needed an ascender/shunt etc. The leading option sounds scary, do you do it often and how often have you fallen?
Steve
 mlmatt 04 Sep 2009
In reply to steveshaking:

I've used it to lead once for aid climbing and it was awkward as hell to use (eaiser to use the clove hitch method. That said I've tested it and it does work. Just rememeber your back up knots.
 Ian Jones 04 Sep 2009
In reply to John Berry:
Another good idea would be to put a shunt on the line you will be pulling on so that if you fall off and there is slack in the line then you will pull the slack in and you have two braking devices. A shunt is so more flexible than other rope climbing devices but it is important to have the thin string through the wee hole at the back.
OP John Berry 04 Sep 2009
have to work on that one
OP John Berry 04 Sep 2009
In reply to steveshaking:
> (In reply to John Berry) OK, thanks for that, there was me thinking top roped soloing needed an ascender/shunt etc. The leading option sounds scary, do you do it often and how often have you fallen?
> Steve

used the toprope solo method a lot and fallen quite a few times
used lead method for first time yesterday so havn't had time to discover the drawbacks
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