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Great new easier MP route at Punta Giradili, Sardinia

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 Peter Herold 16 Nov 2009
Many people each year climb the Aguglia at Goloritzè on the E coast of Sardinia - at times you have to queue, and the rock is polished at the start - but now at the even more spectacular and beautiful Punta Giradili to the south, one hour from where I live, there's a multipitch route, Parthenia, only a little bit harder than Sinfonia dei Mulini a Vento and Easy Gymnopedie on the Aguglia. We repeated it on Saturday, probably for the first time since the first ascensionists, and it's GREAT, one of the best MP routes I've done round here. I thoroughly recommend it. Up to now the easiest route at Giradili was Mediterraneo S2 7a+ max, 6b obl. so this is a lot easier, but no less fine. In the upper section you climb up the arete on the L of Giradili's huge cave, a really great position.

The topo and enthusiastic description by Roberto Vigiani you can find at http://www.toscoclimb.it/public/v2/modules/rockdocg/article.php?storyid=119 Roberto opened the very famous (and hard) routes Hotel Supramonte at Gorroppu and Mezzogiorno di Fuoco at Giradili, and so he knows what he's doing.

The route has one 6b+ pitch, and the obligatory grade (you have to climb this above bolts, in some case quite a way, the Seriousness grade is S2) is 6a. The routes on the Aguglia, on the other hand, have 6c moves but are less serious (S1/S1+) and are easier if you use aid, with 5c obligatory. So I would say that Parthenia is harder than Sinfonia and Easy Gymnopedie. It also has more of a "mountain" feel to it.

There is a nice photo in my gallery http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=47566

ENJOY! Peter
OP Peter Herold 17 Nov 2009
Angus asked re the photo, "Isn't it a bit vegetated?" In fact, there's no vegetation on the route except for some very nice trees for runners, and if you look at my photo on Wolfgang Gullich (very well trafficked, very famous) there are some little trees in this photo as well. In both cases, the trees don't disturb the climbing, and are part of the limestone landscape.
OP Peter Herold 18 Nov 2009
Here's a great photo on Punta Giradili, from Martin Cufar's blog http://www.martinacufar.com/show_photo.php?photo_id=386&gallery_id=N277... Nice place (including the trees)!

 ANC 18 Nov 2009
In reply to Peter Herold:
Yeah in fact that does look pretty fantastic! Would be great to go back for a climbing trip sometime!

Cheers Peter

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