UKC

Having seen some amazing photos in a Doug Scott book, I thought I'd do a bit of research. From what I can tell Norway's Trollwall seems very unpopular, almost unappealing to most people. Other than the obvious, ie. weather, loose rock, exposure, difficulty getting there, seriousness of the thing, what do people have against it, as these problems don't seem to put me off. Am I missing something glaringly obvious or am I talking out of my arse again and people do actually feel very positive towards it and I've just got their perception wrong? Seriously thinking about an excursion there sometime soon, wanna look at it from all angles.
Cheers sm

In reply to sweatmonster:
Dunno about the Trolltinder or whatever its called. I've been to Norway 4 times kayaking and climbing and love the place. Go there

In reply to sweatmonster:
I may be able to help you compare it to something. But first...
What other big walls have you done

In reply to sweatmonster:

Look at the thread Rock Climbing in Norway and find my post, there sould be a link to Climbing in Romsdal valley -books home page, there is also some topos of Trollryggen (Troll Wall) and more info about the region.

Ps. There is a easier route up the Troll Wall also, about E1 (YSD 5.9) and all free, should take about 16 to 20h, the Route is called Norwegian Route. Also another easier route up the Trollryggen is the East Pillar, also E1, and should take about 11 - 16h.-

In reply to estivator:
None and I kinda thought it might be a bit ambitious to start with, just really got a thing about Norway and big walls right now, not neccesarily together though.

In reply to sweatmonster:

Is your profile correct, if so it seems you have not done any multi pitch stuff in this country yet at any standard never mind something complex like a big wall.

My advice would be keep your dreams alive but go and do some multi pitch stuff first, A good start near you might be The mild VS on Ravensdale if there are no bird restrictions Medusa I think it is called. If that suits go to Beeston Tor and try some of the stuff there, a bit harder but not desperate for limestone.
Then get down to Wales and get lots of classic severes and vs routes under your belt, you will know if you are climbing well as you will not dither on moves for ages at the grade you are on.

...and I'd aim to get competent at some of the more "adventurous" multi-pitch venues in the UK before you start seriously thinking about the Troll Wall. Places like Gogarth, Carn Dearg Buttress on Ben Nevis and Clogwyn d'ur Arddu spring to mind.

JAMIE B>

In reply to Jamie B.:

Sweatmonster did say the pictures inspired him, probably in the summer he will be calling in to the Clachaig and dragging you up Trapeze or Big Top for a laugh.

In reply to sutty: Done a fair bit of multi pitch, mainly in Wales, nothing above VS though, but I'm fairly happy with my ropework, retreating, head for heights etc (so far). But obviously I know this doesn't qualify me for a big wall, so don't worry, I'm not about to go and bite off more than I can chew. I'm just thinking very, very far ahead!
<keep your dreams alive> I like you thinking, cheers youth! and everybdy

In reply to sweatmonster: Part of the Troll Wall fell down in 1998. I'm not sure if it altered the Rimmond Route (the easiest route on the wall) but when I was there in 1997 it was wet, very loose and not very pleasant! The Troll is a nasty place to climb...... like the Eiger, according to one of the lads I was there climbing with.
Although it's a "must do" route, there are much better places to climb. Aslo remember, you'll have to be capable of climbing at least E1 carrying a sac.

In reply to Richard Parry: Unfortunately Rimmond Route and Svenskerutten are both very affected. Tommy Nilsson planned to do an '25 years after' repeat of his route last summer but was strongly discouraged by locals. I think Rimmond Route has had a repeat or two since the rockfall though. Reports says that there are lots and lots of loose rock on remaining ledges.

In reply to Richard Parry: B*gger! Just done a search for threads on the troll wall and it now sounds like a very unattractive prospect after the rockfall. Should have checked earlier really, saved a lot of bother... Still fancy bigs walls and Norway though (poss not together), am I right in thinking there's more to be had up north (ee by gum) including new routes? seem to remember reading about this. May be a bit more suitable for my standard/experience anyway (more research needed..). Plus how expensive is norway, also heard plenty of horror stories about £5+ a pint etc
Cheers sm

In reply to sweatmonster: Kjerag perhaps?

In reply to jonas: epiffy-what? cheers, I'll check it out

In reply to sweatmonster:

Look in the articles on here and on planet fear, some information about further north.

Thanks for the cheers youth, 13 months to my pension and still the old greeting comes out. I still use it with my contemporarys in fact used it on weds night in a pub to a 69 year old friend.

In reply to sweatmonster:

Norway *can* be expensive if you don't approach it properly. However, if you have your wits about you it needn't be too bad. Beer in a bar might well be £4-5 a pint, but if you buy it in supermarkets it's a similar price to the UK. Same with eating out. Cooking for yourself is the best bet.

As well as having lived there (twice), I've stayed in youth hostels on ice climbing trips. If you don't have their breakfasts (which often also include you taking the makings for a packed lunch) and get your own makings in, they can work out very cheap. The mountain huts are good, too.

Bus and train fares are reasonable, and the services punctual, clean and efficient. If there are 2 or more of you travelling together, you can often qualify for a "group" discount.

In reply to sutty:

So you think I need "dragged up" Trapeze?

At the moment I probably would, but comments like that are just what I need as motivation to get training in earnest. Keep twisting the knife!

JAMIE B>

In reply to Jamie B.:

If Trapeze is too easy for you go and do the Bat and Torro for a days climbing, that will put muscles in your spit

In reply to sutty:

Think I'll pass on that one; would be happy just to do one or two classic easy extremes like Trapeze or Unicorn in my lifetime. As you've probably observed, I'm not ideally physiqued for this game.

Muscles in your spit? Not an appealing concept. Where do you get these lines?

JAMIE B>

"Other than the obvious, ie. weather, loose rock, exposure, difficulty getting there, seriousness of the thing, what do people have against it?"

I thought that was amusing, how much more do you need for it not to be popular?
One thing thought, there are not many more accessible places to do a big wall, what is difficult about driving to within a few hundred metres of the base of the wall?

In reply to sweatmonster:

If you want multipitch granite in Norway then you gotta go to the Lofoten Islands, off the west coast of northern Norway. They are simply ace. I went last summer and I cannot wait to go back!

Loads of routes from 1-12 pitches, severe to E2 and harder. Can also do the trip cheap - I was there for over 3 weeks for a measley £250 all-inc.

The 5 piccies in my profile gallery are all from there...
http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?name=jamiemoss

In reply to Nj:

I kind of meant getting to Norway itself, certainly seems harder than getting to Chamonix as far fewer budget airlines fly there, any suggestions (preferably dirt cheap)?
Plus I can't drive (yet)
In reply to jamiemoss: 3 weeks and £250 you say? That I like the sound of...

In reply to sweatmonster:

Yeah man, its true, this is how:

RyanAir Stanstead-Stockholm (Skavsta/Vesteras) £25 return
Train Stockholm-Narvik (1000 miles) £45 return
Ferry Lofoten-Narvik £30 return

Camp rough for free when out there (it's legal), and spent all the rest on food, transfers and travel insurance.

Top tip: we took 6 bottles of vodka out with us so we didn't need to fork out £6 per pint to celebrate after a route.

In reply to sweatmonster:
try the east pillar route on the troll wall, just to the left of the main face and unaffected by the rockfall - 2 day hvs

In reply to jamiemoss and roger-n: Cheers guys, will check it out just as soon as I finish yet another fecking geography essay. Which I'll do after I've started it. Grrr, tsk...