UKC

I'm hoping to get myself a rope this summer, since I'll be living right on the edge of dartmoor for a few months and guessing having a rope would help if I want to lead =P
I'm contemplating getting the Beal Joker 60m since it can be used as a single as well as a twin (double up so 30m), I know that it might not be as durable, but I'm hoping that as long as it'll last around 3 years that would do.
Im guessing I'll be climbing twice a week over the summer but after that probably use it every fortnight, so I'm hoping it'll last for a few years??
Any thoughts or recommendations? (don't really want to buy a pair of twins, cuz I haven't got space and i'm moving soon)

In reply to chaude:

Granite can and probably will be mean to your rope.
I would class the Joker more as a specialized rope for when weight counts (hard redpoints, alps etc).
I don't know how abusive you are to your ropes but why not get a thin single rope like this one
http://www.rockrun.com/products-Spark-9.5mm-x-60m-DEAL_CL-RO-DSP6.htm
you still can double it up to use as two half ropes and it will last probably a lot longer than a Joker

In reply to uncontrollable: emmm, i doubt i'll be very abusive since I don't climb hard at all but that doesn't really judge the abuse haha
Oh, can you/are you supposed to double up a single to use as halfs?!?! In case of a fall wouldn't they be loaded in a diff. way?
Please rectify me if I'm wrong =)

In reply to chaude:

I have a Joker. I use it for special projects where a light weight rope is nice. I have climbed less on it than you intend to and all of it ice and mixed alpine/ice. No falls and little rappeling. Love the rope but no way a Joker would last me three years.

In reply to chaude:

Nice rope but it will be pretty wrecked before the 3 years is up.

In reply to chaude:

I've had a joker which i've paired up with my Beal Cobra for about 2 years now and always been pretty pleased with it. It came really handy on a trip to La Pedriza where weight was an issue on long approaches and where we would be climbing some pitches on a single and others on half ropes. The joker was perfect for this and it allowed quite a bit of flexibility.

I've also used it in winter conditions and the dry treatment works really well.

I use this combination on almost a daily basis when trad climbing on Gib limestone and i'm pretty impressed with the durability of both these ropes, though recently i'd been thinking it would probably be best to just have two Beal Cobras.

I really don't think i've got as much out of the joker as was intended (except on that trip to Pedriza).

I'd recommend it if you're doing some really hardcore sport climbing or some really lightweight/specialist stuff where the flexibility of switching between half, twin and single is necessary.

For general day to day sport climbing just get a single rope.

In reply to chaude:

Oh and although i wouldn't recommend it for the uses you're saying, if you are gonna ignore everyone's feedback and get it anyway i'd check decathlon.

They sell it by the metre and at a very decent price.

In reply to chaude: Buy a £40 quid Mammut Promo 30metre rope from Taunton Leisure - quickly before they run out.

It's just perfect for leading routes around Dartmoor or Chudleigh and doing a bit indoors at Dart Rock. Out of over 270 routes under E1 on Dartmoor or at Chudleigh Rocks you can lead around 250 of them easily with a 30metre rope.

If you do find it's got to the stage it's limiting you, you'll still have money left and have a much better idea of what expensive rope/ropes to then buy.

In reply to chaude:
Cheap and cheerful is the way ahead. I trashed a brand new rope on granite in one day; 1 sharp crystal+1 slightly jammed rope+1 impatient pull=1 cut sheath!
As Mark says a single 60m is overdoing it for Dartmoor & S Devon trad, £40 for 30m is good value.

In reply to chaude:


A single rope is stronger than a half, so no issue there with doubling it up.

Needlesports is worth a look for Mammut Promo Ropes they do as well a 40m as far as I know

In reply to uncontrollable:

I find myself wondering about impact forces...anybody shed any light on this...if a single rope doubled is less dynamic could it be dangerous?

The Beal Joker however is tested as double or single and for that matter twin.

In reply to Nigel Modern:

Impact forces might be interesting but should be nothing dramatic (someone correct me if I'm wrong)

that's not correct as such.

Single rope: can be used as a single strand

double rope aka half ropes: need 2 strands for lead climbing, can be used on a single strand to bring up seconds. can be clipped alternating

twin ropes: both strands need to be clipped in each piece. has to be used like a single but you need two

In reply to uncontrollable: '...that's not correct as such...' err why?

Joker is rated as twin, double or single...other single ropes may not be sufficiently dynamic if used double

In reply to Nigel Modern:

Sorry misread your post.
Yes Joker is rated as all three.

Using a Single as half/double rope should pose no problem as most of the time anyway only one piece gets weight.
You loose of course the advantage of the lower impact force, which half ropes offer.
Using a single as twin will probably cause troubles in regard to loading the Karabiner because of the rope diameter.

In reply to uncontrollable: 'Using a single as twin will probably cause troubles in regard to loading the Karabiner because of the rope diameter.'

Does the Joker get round this one? 9.1mm...could be some cross loading?

Yes and of course you're right about singles as half ropes normally only getting loaded singly

In reply to Nigel Modern:


I hope so, otherwise it wouldn't be of much use
It depends on the Karabiners you use I guess. Twin ropes are usually pretty skinny though.
http://www.mammut.ch/en/ropes.html there is a download to a pretty good rope guide which explains quite a lot

In reply to Nigel Modern: thanks guys, i guess im going for a single rope then! any recommendations for light and durable ones? (i know, these 2 don't often come together)

In reply to chaude:

the one I recommended you above

Or if you can live with a 30-40m rope the promo ropes are usually very good

otherwise google
Eldelrid Eagle quite a few offers around

In reply to chaude:


If you only need 35 metres why not buy a 70 metre and cut it in half?
Then again that brings us back to your original idea of using one doubled...

In reply to uncontrollable: might do that. thanks a lot! =D
if I were going to get a 70m rope and cut it in halves, i might just well get a pair or half ropes since I predominantly climb more trad than sport.

In reply to uncontrollable: 'I hope so, otherwise it wouldn't be of much use '

Exactly but 9mm seems quite big and like you say it may depend on the karabiner - I suppose we can trust Beal to have considered this.