UKC

Hi folks

I know this is a pure newbie question but I just want to be sure I am doing the right thing!

I have just bought 5 dmm revolver crabs to reduce rope drag. I am going to replace the crabs that came originally with my quickdraws. I know to feed my rope into the revolvers (obvious) but which end of the sling bit do I replace with the new revolvers?

the rubber end where there is no chance of the crab moving or the slacker end?
Hope this makes sense and sorry if I have over complicated the question.

Cheers

In reply to Gazlynn:
You don't want the revolver rotating so if you have a tight end on the QD then use that.

In reply to Gazlynn:

The rubber end.

In reply to Gazlynn: you put the rope Krab on the end with the rubber widget thingy majig as the loose end is...erm... loose to prevent the protection from being lifted out by the rope moving the Draw.
A lttle extra play in the system to prevent your gear from being wobbled out!

It also means that if you are clipping in extremis then the rope Krab doesn't move around as much when you go to clip saving you from falling because it was moving around too much...in theory!

In reply to Gazlynn:

An interesting idea. The benefit presumably being reduced rope drag and slightly lower force on the top runner in a fall (as with the reduced friction the whole rope should stretch more equally rather than the portion nearest the leader getting more force).

Are there any down-sides? Your belayer will have to hold more force in a fall - possibly a problem if they're lighter than you. Your falls will also be slightly longer than with a regular quickdraw which may not alwyas be desirable. Are the revolvers also designed to be used heavily - will the bearings wear out quickly?

The thing perhaps to ask yourself, as a self-admitted newbie, is why you feel you need 5 revolver quickdraws when no-one else does? The revolver is a pretty specialist bit of kit.

I'm not saying you're wrong but what you're doing in using revolvers in place of a standard quickdraw for everyday use is, as far as I know, fairly unprecedented.

Thanks for all the advice.

In reply to quadmyre:

Ohhh sh*t have I bought the wrong crabs? I thought the revolver crabs sounded like a good idea?

In reply to Gazlynn:
Depends on what you are doing, revolvers are great for some things but just dead weight on others. The reduction in rope drag will mean your belayer feels more of the fall but then again the reduction in rope drag should mean you are less likely to fall off

In reply to Gazlynn:

You'll be able to set up amazing hoists!

In reply to quadmyre: The bearings in the Revolver are Igus Plastic bearings which are good in terms of shock, slight reciprocal rotation and withstand exposure to most contaminents. They're even pretty damn good with heat. I wouldn't worry too much about the longevity. I once did a calc on an igus bearing under considerable load and the lifetime was estimate in the millions of cycles... As for too many? Maybe. I doubt it will hurt, just means that the top piece will always provide low impact. You won't see a cumulative reduction unless the route really does twist and turn.

In reply to Gazlynn:


Appropriately used a good idea but not for your first few pieces off the ground. If you fall the lack of friction will mean it's likely your belayer will take off and you'll go further so you're more like to deck out (or hit a ledge etc).

In reply to Gazlynn: I'd have thought the biggest problem would be the unnecessary impact on your wallet, they ain't cheap. Most people won't own any revolvers.

In reply to Gazlynn:
If the QD slings are sewn up really tight at the crab ends, you may struggle to get a revolver in, they are thicker than standard crabs. I'd use them to make some sling draws with by getting some 60cm slings and an extra crab each.

In reply to mike kann:

So are they a gimmick or a good product?

Would it be better if I alternated them with normal crab quickdraws?

cheers

In reply to Gazlynn: They are a good product which the majority of people do not require.

In reply to blanchie14c:


No chance lol!
I just struggled for about 40 mins changing them on my quickdraw slings but managed it in the end.
cheers

In reply to Gazlynn:
No gimmick, they are superb but specialised. They are best suited for wandering routes where you need to keep rope drag to a minimum. I've 2 set up on 60cm slings and tripled. They get used as normal draws but I have the option of opening them out should I decide to place runners off the main line of the rope. They do revolver screwgates too but I don't see a use for them on my rack

In reply to Gazlynn: It's a good product for sure. I'd say you'd probably want 2 at most, used for limiting load and drag on a couple of pieces a pitch, especially those in which you're not desperately confident. 5 is overkill I reckon.

In reply to mike kann:

Cheers Guys

I got a 5 pack 2nds deal. I think they where £56 a bit expensive if I am only going to use 2 but made worse mistakes I suppose.

In reply to Gazlynn: Ah well, you're not gonna have any drag are you

In reply to Gazlynn:
thats 11 quid each? good deal and you'll get the money back here if you want to sell them i'm sure.

In reply to Gazlynn: there is a place for a revolver on most trad routes that aren't direct esp if you're not using double ropes. they are on the weighty side but they do whats asked of them.

In reply to blanchie14c:

Probably not now I have told everybody! Plus I aint taking them back off their slings now!!

Would using 5 on 1 pitch be dangerous or just silly?

In reply to higherclimbingwales:



At the moment I only use a single rope.

In reply to Gazlynn: Well you have 5 spare carabiners. Buy 3 slings and a biner and you could sell 2 or 3 of the ones with the revolvers as a complete extender and you'd still have the same number of draws.

In reply to Gazlynn: then they are not the wrong choice IMO. just be aware that the open gate width isnt great either so majorly fat ropes can be a little bit of a pain to clip but you learn how best to clip.

In reply to Gazlynn:

What everyone else said. They are excellent but 5 might be regarded a bit overkill. I usually have a couple of quickdraws with revolvers on the rope end on my rack - sport or trad. Personally I think they are great for anywhere the route changes direction and you would get rope drag, or anywhere you want a more dynamic fall. At the end of a long 30m pitch, a couple of revolvers on strategic gear/bolts can reduce your rope drag quite significantly.

Unless you desperately need to recoup the cash I would hang on to them. There is not really a downside to them - except maybe taking a little bit more of a dynamic fall - so not necessarily a great idea to use on the first few bits off the ground. And being marginally heavier than an ordinary wiregate.

FWIW though if you wanted to unload a couple I would happy take a couple off your hands - PM me through the forum if you have any interest.

In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll: coming from a boulderer :P

I'd say they are very useful...if i had some spare cash id hae a couple...put them on 60cm draws for extending out from under roofs, teally far-out gearplacements

just maybe don't usethem on ur first piece off the ground

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Thanks for your advise and the offer but am going to hang onto them. Will chuck a couple on slings.

thanks everyone