UKC

Northern Germany

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 payney1973 21 Jun 2010
I'll be in Northern Germany (Hohne) for a few weeks in Aug', is there any climbing in the area, if not anyone know the nearest and what do i take?
ie Bouldering, sport, trad????
 jimtitt 21 Jun 2010
In reply to payney1973:
Plenty of climbing in the Hatz/Ith and nearby areas (south of a line between Hannover and Magdeburg. Sport and bouldering but the sport can be very sporting so a trad rack is required (or at least highly desirable).
You can find details of all the (sport as opposed to Alpine) climbing areas in Germany in:-
Deutsch Rock. tmms Verlag.ISBN 3-930650-17-7
 John Ww 21 Jun 2010
In reply to payney1973:

Good luck! My other half lives in Celle, and it's as flat as the proverbial witches'.....

The nearest (and nicest) spot is the Okertal, just outside Goslar - very grit-like, with plenty of trad, some sport, and a load of bouldering, all in a really pretty area next to the river, and a good pub with cheap beer and top food right next to the parking spot. I guess it'll take about 80mins from Hohne. There's also the Ith, which is west of Goslar but I much prefer the Okertal. Thers are guidebooks, but they can take a bit of finding in the shops - try IG Klettern Niedersachsen e.V. and look for

Wolfgang Brandt, Götz Wiechmann: "Wo die Felsnasen schnarchen - Genußklettern an den besten Felsen des Harzes" - KAMIN AlpinVerlag, 1998. ISBN 3-925997-05-9

for the Okertal, and "Klettern im Norden" for the Ith


Arne Grage, Stephen Grage, Ralf Kowalski: "Klettern im Norden - Band 1" (Ith, Selter, Kanstein, Süntel, Wesergebirge, Brunkensen) - Emu-Media, 2004. (Bezug: www.kletternimnorden.de)


Hope that helps, cheers, JW
kletterszene.com 22 Jun 2010
On www.kletternimnorden.de you can find the latest spots and crags
 Carless 22 Jun 2010
In reply to all:

Sorry to hijack, but can I pick your brains about the N.German stuff nearer to Belgium.

I know about the Ettringen stuff http://www.klettern-ettringen.de/

but do you know about the crags near Nideggen? http://www.stonevibes.de/Nideggen.33.0.html

My German is crap. Does that say that a lot is banned, and for the open crags, you need to get a permit in the morning at a petrol station?!

Any of you been there and know about the actual access situation?
OP payney1973 22 Jun 2010
In reply to Carless: no sorry mate, but ive climbed in Freyer in Belgium, quite good!!!
 John P 22 Jun 2010
In reply to carless:

Haven't been there for some years, but the .pdf topos on the left-hand side of your link are open to climbing (except maybe the 'Zweibrüder', ask at the petrol station). A couple of years ago, the climbing ticket was avalable for 2.50 euros at the ARAL petrol station.
 Carless 23 Jun 2010
In reply to John P:

Thanks. How strict are they with the permit system?
Bit of a pain to drive from Brussels and then find no permits available for the weekend (tho' I suppose we could continue to Ettringen)

Did you find an ok campsite there? The last one we stayed at in Ettringen: superb place, great setting, bureaucracy to rival the worst of the EU,
German mates said they remembered why they'd emigrated

To payney. Agreed that Freyr is great. Trouble I need to get fitter to manage the 7bs (or even 7as again), or carry on repeating routes. But the Alzheimer's onsights are progressing ok
 John P 25 Jun 2010
In reply to carless:

Sorry for the late reply. I think the permit system is quite strict; my gf was once almost fined 50,000 Deutch Marks for parking in a layby near one of the restricted crags! I wouldn't personally climb there without a permit since it could threaten continued access. Chalk use is frowned upon also, and with the millions of crawling ticks in high summer, I doubt the petrol station will run out of tickets, even on a week-end. I can't remember the name of the campsite we stayed at, though there are several in the area.

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