UKC

I'm getting bored of only having a few climbing partners and days off not matching etc... I've heard of lots of people shunting routes by climbing using a fixed line and a shunt as back up. I'm thinking of giving this a go tomorrow. Can anyone explain briefly their rope system, if indeed they use this system?

Cheers

In reply to Dribble223:

Set up an abseil, and tie your sack into the bottom of the rope. Attach the shunt to a rope and to your harness and use a piece of bungee cord to make a bandoleer also attatched to the shunt. Climb.

In reply to JoshOvki:

Will try this tomorrow. Do you use a prussic above as a back up? Cheers

In reply to Dribble223:

I wouldn't use a prussic as you would constantly have to slide it up the rope where as a shunt is a lot slicker and will slide up the rope as you climb (assuming you have weighted the other end).

One point, a shunt isn't 100% fail safe and can slip so it's worth tying a knot in the rope beneath you after a short distance to stop you decking if the shunt doesn't grip when you fall.

In reply to MikeR:

Nice one cheers. I'm guessing that to escape the system it's just a case of abbing using the shunt?

Cheers for all the advice

In reply to JoshOvki: Out of interest, what's the bungee cord for? I can't see any reason for it, that's all.

In reply to MikeR:


Thet are designed to slip, that's what makes them safe! if in doubt as you say tie a knot in the rope 3 to 5m above the ground.

Never used a bungie cord in the 20 plus years I have used a shut - just keep it simple and clip into harness and make sure rope has a bit of weight on the end.

In reply to Dribble223:

If you fall/weight the rope, it requires some self-discipline not to grab the shunt. There have been a few accident/close-calls over the years.

Chris

In reply to Dribble223:
As a back up to your abbing device, yes that's fine (don't just try and release the shunt as you'll plumet down the rope!)

In reply to Aly: I assume the purpose for the bungee is to stop you inverting if you fall.

In reply to Aly:

I believe the idea is that it keeps the shunt pinned upright against your chest which means it rides up the rope nicely rather than hanging down off your belay loop being dragged up behind you. Means if you slip/fall or are working moves you should fall less distance - otherwise you have some slack in the system since the shunt has to move from being underneath the belay loop to being above it as you go from towing it upwards to hanging off it. Very useful for ascending too as it reduces the slip back in each move upwards and makes it far more efficient.

In reply to AJM: Right, that's sort of what I thought but would only use it if I was going to be ascending (as you say, makes it much more efficient). I suppose it's horses for courses but I think it's much easier to climb, and work moves, when you've got the 'play' to get off the rope etc. Is it not also a bit of a pain when you're hand-over-handing down the rope, sliding the shunt with you? Whatever you're preference is I guess. Cheers.

In reply to Dribble223:

I have had a shunt for a while now and can honestly say when you get used to it its a great piece of equipment. I always shunt at cliffs which you can get to the top of without having to climb then, I find a good solid object e.g. a thick tree tie a figure of 8 around it and throw the rope over the cliff. Then abseil to the bottom of the cliff. Once at the bottom find the point where the rope is about 1 meter off the floor and tie a knot . Clip the knot to some form of heavy object which will hang so as to keep the rope taught. Then attach shunt above object connect to harness with mayon or screwgate and away you go. Climb to the top where you can ether walk off or abseil down or if you want to lower down half way through a route. Take the wait off the rope and pinch the lock on the shunt to slide down the rope. hope this helps

Jack Bradbrook

In reply to Aly:

I have to say its been ages since I've been shunting things - I only know about the bungee because I've seen people use it for ascending. I see what you mean about the play in the system but I guess maybe my thought is if you're really struggling on individual moves rather than links it lets you just get on and off the rope right by the move. Who knows. I'm going to give it a try next time I go, see how I find it.

AJM

In reply to quarryboy: Agree; it's really important to use a heavy weight to make sure you teach the rope a lesson.

In reply to Dribble223: i tied the rucksack with the rest of my gear in at the bottom of the rope for two reasons
1 it weights the rope down making the shunt freer going up and
2 when your at the top of the route you can then pull your gear back up for your next route which you would set up from the top any way

In reply to Dribble223:

The reason for the bungee cord is to stop it dropping down. I don't use it for working routes, more just climbing them, so I don't tend to have to repeat moves. It makes me feel more secure not dropping down if I do come off. But like others have said its not essential.

In reply to Aly: Without the bungee you find your self hanging in very strenuous and contorted positions trying to pull the Shunt up the rope. With regard to escape, I just lift one leg, take a couple of loops round my foot and step up. A prussik loop might make things a bit easier.

Al

In reply to tradlad:


Never bothered me in the slightest, the shunt either follows or you can give it a quick knock up if needed. Each to their own though. cheers