UKC

Ok, according to the MetOffice this weekend will be dry in the Peak. I have never climbed there and I want to make my first visit if I manage to convince the wife... we're mainly after sport routes. However, what are the actual conditions of the rock up there? Any suggestion for first timers? Thanks!

In reply to ncianca:

Conditions as good at the mo and the forecast this weekend is looking promising. What grades are you looking for?

That's very good news!


This is always a difficult question... let's say ideally overhangs (nothing too extreme though) in the 7a-7c region with some 6's nearby to warmup. Why not. But to be honest, since it's my first visit, I'm more after the quality of the route, rock, environment, etc. I have the Northern Limestone guidebook...

Thanks!

In reply to ncianca:

Best to avoid Harpur hill and horseshoe quarry then! They are mainly low grade 6's and a small number of 7's.

Probably best to look for something at Cheedale, I think cheedale upper is supposed to be better than lower. Quite sheltered and south facing

In reply to R8JimBob88:

Or if your feeling brave, Raven Tor! Not much to warm up on there though....

In reply to ncianca:

I'm more after the quality of the route, rock, environment, etc. I have the Northern Limestone guidebook...

Oh dear. I don't think you'll like Peak sport much. I've climbed in the Peak for years, and have intended to do some sport routes and get into redpointing, but what's on offer compared to the trad is frankly risible (except if you're into Raven Tor I guess), so I've never bothered. The quarries are awful. Loose and depressing, in the main. The natural crags might be OK, but you won't find anything with a clutch of decent 6s to warm up on before the 7s. Cheedale is a lovely place, but I don't know what'll be dry.

I'd get your trad on.

Thanks for replies!

Upper Chee Dale and Raven Tor then. I had this feeling from reading the guidebook, but you never know... the locals may have better suggestions...

I'm not sure I'm ready for trad yet. Maybe bouldering, in which case I would certainly try Stanage first. It's too famous to be missed...

In reply to ncianca: What have you ever done on grit ?

Would you go to Rome and eat Fish and Chips from a genuine UK chippy ?

In reply to ncianca:

You've on-sighted 7b+, how much more ready can you get!

In reply to dunc56:

Good point! Ok, let's change subject then. I know how to place gear although I only did it on super solid Mont Blanc granite which for all I know is a million times more obvious than placing gear on gritstone. Where do you think I should start if I wished to have a taster first timer grit session?

In reply to Toreador:

I might be wrong, but trad sounds more like a mental game, rather than being fit and pushing grades...

In reply to ncianca:
Where do you think I should start if I wished to have a taster first timer grit session?

Stanage. It's popular for a reason. Start easy and if you can onsight 7b+ I reckon you'll enjoy working through the grades. I can onsight 6b with a following wind and happily operate around E1/2ish.

Enjoy yourself.

Chris

In reply to ncianca:


Gritstone gear is rarely hard to place. There's either a crack or there isn't. Very few tricks are needed, except knowing how to place a solid cam.

In reply to ncianca: Why not consider both? The walk-ins are not huge and the drive betwen crags is short. I'd recommend a few routes on Stanage to say hello to grit. They would warm you up nicely and if you like it you could always stay!